how do you smooth out/polish the leade-in/chamber on your barrel?

[1377x]

thanks for the links!
i like that 700+pc kit that has everything i'll ever need
and you included a 26pc economical kit 
the question is whats the shelf life?
i would hate to get a large kit and have 90% of them dry up,get brittle or something
i polish more than just my air guns i just did a lot polishing on my ruger 10/22 and plan on getting a cz452 before the supply dries up i know that will need some polishing
thanks jebert for detailed tutorial

[quickster47 †]

thanks for the links!
i like that 700+pc kit that has everything i'll ever need
and you included a 26pc economical kit 
the question is whats the shelf life?
i would hate to get a large kit and have 90% of them dry up,get brittle or something
i polish more than just my air guns i just did a lot polishing on my ruger 10/22 and plan on getting a cz452 before the supply dries up i know that will need some polishing
thanks jebert for detailed tutorial

Ed I've had one of the kits for years and not had any problem with them drying out.

And that big kit has got lots and lots and lots of pieces that I find myself using for all kinds of polishing jobs.  The Craytex stuff works fabulous for buffing the trigger frame or barrel band or other pistol parts.

Carl

[1377x]

got a pic of the crown and leade in
looks like i need to work on the crown some more
now you can what this awful looking leade-in looks like

[quickster47 †]

That leade looks like it was cut by someone with a nervous twitch using a hand drill with an out-of-round reamer.  It's horrible!

Carl

[1377x]

That leade looks like it was cut by someone with a nervous twitch using a hand drill with an out-of-round reamer.  It's horrible!

Carl

YEAH!!!
the worst i have seen
could this aid in the shotgun pattern groups i am getting with this barrel?

[quickster47 †]

I would not think the leade could do that because it is mostly used in seating the pellet.  And then once seated the path down the barrel is pretty well defined with the rifling.  I tend to think that the crown is more responsible for any exit pattern anomalies.

Are the pellets you are using a good snug fit?

Are you getting an occasional flyer or a consistent number of flyers?

Carl

[chongman]

Shelf Life?

The few polishing points I have are about 20 years old and still good to go 

[ped]

that is a nasty leade ed ,agree with carl that bad crowns are more responsible for bad grouping but such a shoddy leade could easily damage the pellet as its pushed into the bore
ped

[1377x]

i was thinking the pellets might be getting damaged by the funky leade
i'll report back on the condition of the barrel after i clean up the chatter marks

I would not think the leade could do that because it is mostly used in seating the pellet.  And then once seated the path down the barrel is pretty well defined with the rifling.  I tend to think that the crown is more responsible for any exit pattern anomalies.

Are the pellets you are using a good snug fit?

Are you getting an occasional flyer or a consistent number of flyers?

Carl

you know i havent noticed how the pellets fit.thats something i will check
i know the pellet thats in the muzzle now wasnt easy to get in there its pretty tight.
forgot what was making the pellets fly everywhere,i remember now, that is getting fixed too

the question is
what is the benefit of cleaning up the leade-in ?

[quickster47 †]

Mainly it makes certain that the pellet is not damaged during loading and that the pellet is correctly seated in the barrel after the air port and into the rifling.

Carl

[1377x]

ok
those marks are sharp enough to damage a pellet
hopefully i can remove them without removing to much material from the barrel
any suggestions?

[breakfastchef]

Dremel makes rubber polishing points - #462 & #463 - for those of us that do not need a lifetime supply of Craytex bits. I have a few on order to try.

[Gippeto]

Terminology catching up with me again ....I call it a forcing cone. Does look pretty rough.

Anyhooo....if the head of the pellet catches on the transfer port (burrs or sharp edges), it can be damaged resulting in an out of balance condition (spinning projectile). Can lead to cork screw patterns of flight and more.

Will suggest you re-mount the barrel to the receiver, seat a pellet using the bolt. Then remove the barrel, check the position of the pellet relative to the transfer port. Using a wood dowel, push the pellet back out the breech end of the barrel.

Inspect pellet for damage...if you find any, smooth over the transfer port edges in the chamber.

Otherwise...Is this mag fed or single shot? Do other mags make a difference?

Crown looks nice Ed...well done!

Al

[BDS]

+1 to Gippeto... forcing cone in a powder burner.

Use a small brass welding rod .125" or wood dowel to push the pellet thru the barrel Ed, look at the pellet under 2x or better mag with good light after it comes out, you will be surprised at what you see! 

[1377x]

Terminology catching up with me again ....I call it a forcing cone. Does look pretty rough.

Anyhooo....if the head of the pellet catches on the transfer port (burrs or sharp edges), it can be damaged resulting in an out of balance condition (spinning projectile). Can lead to cork screw patterns of flight and more.

Will suggest you re-mount the barrel to the receiver, seat a pellet using the bolt. Then remove the barrel, check the position of the pellet relative to the transfer port. Using a wood dowel, push the pellet back out the breech end of the barrel.

Inspect pellet for damage...if you find any, smooth over the transfer port edges in the chamber.

Otherwise...Is this mag fed or single shot? Do other mags make a difference?

Crown looks nice Ed...well done!

Al

the gun is single shot no plans on a magazine
i am afraid of over doing something and next the bolt o-ring wont seal