Early model 1377 American Classic

[1377x]

sometimes I wish I would have kept my phase1 if it was as nice as that one I would have
I polished one grip frame and the upkeep was to much for me to handle. they do look very good polished to a mirror finish
it was actually on my phase 2 must have sold it because I no longer have it and cant remember what happened to it
same goes for a 1701 grip frame I cant find must have sold it
really need to keep track of my sales then I wont spend hours looking for something I no longer have

[Crosshairs]

Ed the phase I 1377s are out there bro. I looked for a year till I found this one at my price, another reason I wanted it was to replace the one that got stolen out of my car many years ago and to complete my 1377 collection. I think I have most of them now. I just might post my 13XX collection some day.
Mike

[Flex]

Well, I didn't do a complete tear-down but I did remove everything above the pump tube for inspection and cleaning before reassembly. I do have a few questions. Since most folks don't recommend shooting BBs thru rifled barrels, I kinda wonder why Crosman set this gun up to shoot both BBs and pellets. After I took the barrel off, I was able to get a better look at it. The rifling is in pretty good shape and the bore is bright. In a couple of places tho, there are some longitudinal markings. Are these marks made by shooting steel BBs? How badly does it impact on the accuracy with pellets? Is it a cause for concern? Next issue, when I removed the breech (plastic BTW) there was a rectangular, flat piece of steel underneath the rear half of the breech. I looks like a spacer of some sort. On the underside of the breech itself is a rectangular aperature. I just assumed tha the steel "spacer" fit there kinda keeping the brass bolt from directly contacting the top of the pump tube. Now that it's back together, I do notice a "rattle" in that area and suspect that it's that piece. Is there a special way to position that piece or is the rattle expected? The breech appears to sit the tiniest bit off of the pump tube in the area of the transfer port. Is the "spacer" supposed to compensate for that? Is the transfer port the culprit? I know that with the newer guns, there is an up and a down to the transfer port but this one appears to have no difference RE: top or bottom position. Is there a problem or is just part of the design? Last question and I'll start out by saying I'm not really feeling the love for the loading cover arrangement. Is it supposed to be  loose and floppy when it's not in battery? I put a foam tape spacer in the rear half of the loading cover to take out the slop. It does the job but I don't know how durable it will be.
As much of this post so far sounds a bit "whinny", I still am very happy to have this pellet gun. As many have suggested, she really cleaned up nice! I was able to dress up the muzzle dingage to the point that the casual observer would never notice that there was ever a problem. I'm not going to even mess with restoring the cocking knob. I did have to replace the O-ring on the bolt with a very close match to the original that I found at my local store. I also did a partial "DIY" bolt kit upgrade and replaced the rear breech screw and the grip frame screws with hex head cap screws. When you guys tell me what to do with the rattle, I'll be set. Pics later. Flex

[Tater]

Here is my phase I 1377 made in 1977 it has the steel breech and one piece grips, shoots great.
                             Mike

Man, that's about the year I got mine at twelve years old (maybe a couple years earlier). If only I knew to hang on to it.   

[Flex]

Yes siree! It did clean up nice. Those seeing it for the first time just might think it was new.


I have newer ones with more scratches than this one!
The muzzle rehab turned out nice (if I do say so myself . There's a scratch of some kind inside the very end of the barrel.

Must have been there when I got it. As I said before, probably not going the mess with the scratches on the cocking knob. I'm still concerned RE: the rattle from the small rectangular plate between the bolt and the pump tube. Flex

[Crosshairs]

Looks new now nice job.
                            Mike

[Brent]

She Did clean up nice!!
Looking Good Flex!!

[BDS]

Flex: keep going and you will have a nice resto before you know it. Ya, the early 13XX guns had some great features but... the rotating breech cover wasnt one of e'm IMO, tends to cling and clank around.

[Flex]

Flex: keep going and you will have a nice resto before you know it. Ya, the early 13XX guns had some great features but... the rotating breech cover wasnt one of e'm IMO, tends to cling and clank around.

I'm working on a more permanent fix but as a temporary measure, I put a small patch of foam tape, a little more than 1/2" x 1/2", on the rear half of the underside of the breech cover. It definitely takes the rattle out and actually makes the cover look level when it's closed.
.
It will work for now but there's a tendency for the tape to "roll up" under the cover. Fortunately, only one screw has to be removed to put a new piece. I'm thinking that a shim of plastic maybe 1/16"-3/32" thick fastened to the underside of the cover with double-faced tape might be my next trial. Flex

[1377x]

have you tried flipping the spacer over one side is flat and the other has a very slight curve to it.
make sure your screws are tightened
sounds like the fix worked for you
after many years of shooting bbs through my gun accuracy never faltered but I wanted a sreel breech on my gun so I upgraded to a rjmachine riser breech and current production bolt and barrel
since these guns are not really collector items unless you have the box and paperwork, I say add an aftermarket breech bolt and barrel and have the best shooting 1377 possible  

[Flex]

have you tried flipping the spacer over one side is flat and the other has a very slight curve to it.
make sure your screws are tightened
sounds like the fix worked for you
after many years of shooting bbs through my gun accuracy never faltered but I wanted a sreel breech on my gun so I upgraded to a rjmachine riser breech and current production bolt and barrel
since these guns are not really collector items unless you have the box and paperwork, I say add an aftermarket breech bolt and barrel and have the best shooting 1377 possible

RE: the "spacer", it did seem like one side was different than the other (kind of finished vs unfinished). When I put it back together, I used the telltale "wear" marks to determine the upside from the downside. I will check again tho, to see if there is a curved vs flat side. I would guess that the curved side would rest atop the pump tube. I'm not exactly sure what that spacer actually does. The only thing I can think of would be to support the bolt. If, after I see if the spacer is positioned properly, it still rattles, I may just put a dab of bearing grease on the underside to slow the movement down a bit. If the spacer is critical to function, it's in the correct position since the gun works just fine.
I agree that this gun is hardly a "collector's item". I may just keep it "as is" for general principles. With some previous and upcoming mods to a couple of my other airguns, I'm going to have a spare 10.5" .22call barrel and the stock (plastic) breech and stock brass bolt. I guess that would make it a hybrid 1322/2nd variant. I'm also guessing that it would still be a pretty good shooter in that mode. I think that most would agree that the internal components of the Crosman pumpers of that vintage are superior to the comparable versions being sold currently. Flex

[mudduck48]

Now here is a thread that is over a year old.
And when you get done I can tell you how to get your trigger pull down to 1lb.