New CCS 2400kt

[Baltim0re28]

Two things to try to help you with the cart not getting peirced as well as it should.
#1. Back your trigger over travel screw out a little more. That is the little grub screw with the brass end on it. It is on the grip frame beneath the trigger. Yours looks to be out far enough but not sure.

#2 Make sure you are cocking the bolt before you load the cart into the gun.

Let me know if this helps.

[chongman]

That scope looks fantastic 

[Crosshairs]

Chad your gun has come a long way and a very nice looker. I'm liking the all black tactical look too. I had the same problem with a 2240 and to my surprise the front sights hole was a bit to small after drilling it out the gun shot fine but i think this was a rare case.
                  Mike

[bgmcgee]

On the piercing problem did you adjust the trigger stop screw in? If you did it might be to tight causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down. Another thing is I would change the scope rings to have the levers on the same side the way they are could cause your scope windage to be way off now. You could also look into some offset rings or mounts. I have a bkl offset mount on my 1377 because I have a pistol scope and with the wire stock on I needed it to be farther from my eye but it will work either way.

[Chadtheguru]

#1. Back your trigger over travel screw out a little more. That is the little grub screw with the brass end on it. It is on the grip frame beneath the trigger. Yours looks to be out far enough but not sure.

On the piercing problem did you adjust the trigger stop screw in? If you did it might be to tight causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down.

This would have never crossed my mind but it makes perfect sense. I do have it set barely past firing. I will definitely back it down to make sure the sear clears the hammer. Thanks!

Another thing is I would change the scope rings to have the levers on the same side the way they are could cause your scope windage to be way off now.

A friend suggested I put the levers on opposite sides to "balance" the airgun. I have been thinking about moving them both to the left side. Can you please clarify how it could mess up the windage?

[bgmcgee]

Depending how they clamp but most only one side moves when you clamp them down. If so then you are moving both ends of the scope in different directions if you understand what I am trying to say.It isn't much but could be enough to run out of adjustment in the scope. There is a good video on pyramid air site explaining this.
http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181
Hope this helps.

[Chadtheguru]

Depending how they clamp but most only one side moves when you clamp them down. If so then you are moving both ends of the scope in different directions if you understand what I am trying to say.It isn't much but could be enough to run out of adjustment in the scope. There is a good video on pyramid air site explaining this.
http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181
Hope this helps.

Aha! Makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot, I'll definitely be fixing that. 

What kind of offset did you use?  I did a quick search and didn't really find exactly what I would like. I would like to use the rings that came with the scope, so I guess I would be looking for just a weaver to weaver. I can use the Leapers adapters on the dovetail.

[bgmcgee]

This is the one I have. The bkl mounts are pricy but they work well.
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919

[KevinP]

Looking good Chad   

[BigErn]

Looks great  . Love the scope!

[JEBert]

Chad,
Some of us have cut the shoulder stock down an inch or two to help with the eye relief.  Crosman has the length of pull a little long on these stocks.  Industry standard is 13.5" and that is what you will find on most guns.  These are 16".  An offset scope mount will help with the eye-relief but I have had a broken right collar-bone and I preferred to mod the stock to get the LOP shorter.
I cut two inches out of mine just ahead of the butt plate, aligned the pieces, drilled two pilot holes for 2" deck screws, countersunk the holes, installed the screws, and when I was satisfied with the job, I put some gel-type super-glue between the parts just before I tightened the screws down for the last time.
I have the scope straddle of the loading port and I like the looks of it too.  My scope is the Leapers BugBuster 4X32 Compact.
Cheers,

[crossliner]

This is the one I have. The bkl mounts are pricy but they work well.
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919

Should be this one not the 14mm version..

http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_4_Long_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_Matte_Black/2885

.or this one..

http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_3_Long_Matte_Black/2883..

For scope rings I use BKLs only they are worth it..Each set that came w/ all my UTG/Leapers scopes are just in the box..I inspected each set by mounting/pairing them on the rail and all of them are not in perfect alignment..Imo not worth mounting and besides it might stress the scopes' tubes..The same cannot be said of BKLs I have 5. I have yet to try UK made Sportsmatch..Was about to get 1 but 1 of my nephews forgot my order while he was in Canada..Regards.

http://www.dlairgun.com/Mounts/Sports-Match/009_OP43C_Falcon.html

[Chadtheguru]

Chad,
Some of us have cut the shoulder stock down an inch or two to help with the eye relief.  Crosman has the length of pull a little long on these stocks.  Industry standard is 13.5" and that is what you will find on most guns.  These are 16".  An offset scope mount will help with the eye-relief but I have had a broken right collar-bone and I preferred to mod the stock to get the LOP shorter.
I cut two inches out of mine just ahead of the butt plate, aligned the pieces, drilled two pilot holes for 2" deck screws, countersunk the holes, installed the screws, and when I was satisfied with the job, I put some gel-type super-glue between the parts just before I tightened the screws down for the last time.
I have the scope straddle of the loading port and I like the looks of it too.  My scope is the Leapers BugBuster 4X32 Compact.
Cheers,

Man, that looks great! The stock does feel a little long, that's one of the first things I noticed. I am not a tall man. 

Also, that would help if and when I get my daughter shooting.

What did you cut with? hacksaw?

[JEBert]

What did you cut with? hacksaw?

Just a regular handsaw for wood will work but to do a good job, put it in a miter box or use a miter saw.  I used an electric miter saw set at 0 degrees and put the comb (top) of the stock against the fence to get 90 degrees and it worked very well.  The first cut was made just clear of the inside of the butt and the second one after sliding the stock two inches minus the width of the saw kerf.
Be careful when aligning the pieces for drilling.  You don't have to worry about breaking anything but you want it near perfectly aligned when you drill the holes because that determines how aligned the parts are when you are finished.  Align, drill, and install the screw on the heel (top-rear corner of the stock) first and then the toe (bottom-rear).  To get the toe to align, you will have to flex the lower arm a little.  It flexes easily enough but you will see how tough these stocks are.
I didn't realize that the lower arm gets a little thicker than the toe as you go forward and when I aligned the one side and installed the screw, the other side needed sanding down to get it flush.  I haven't decided whether to sand the whole thing down or try to put some texture on where I sanded.  It's been over a year and I have stopped worrying about it.
Cheers,

[KevinP]

Just a regular handsaw for wood will work but to do a good job, put it in a miter box or use a miter saw.  I used an electric miter saw set at 0 degrees and put the comb (top) of the stock against the fence to get 90 degrees and it worked very well.  The first cut was made just clear of the inside of the butt and the second one after sliding the stock two inches minus the width of the saw kerf.
Be careful when aligning the pieces for drilling.  You don't have to worry about breaking anything but you want it near perfectly aligned when you drill the holes because that determines how aligned the parts are when you are finished.  Align, drill, and install the screw on the heel (top-rear corner of the stock) first and then the toe (bottom-rear).  To get the toe to align, you will have to flex the lower arm a little.  It flexes easily enough but you will see how tough these stocks are.
I didn't realize that the lower arm gets a little thicker than the toe as you go forward and when I aligned the one side and installed the screw, the other side needed sanding down to get it flush.  I haven't decided whether to sand the whole thing down or try to put some texture on where I sanded.  It's been over a year and I have stopped worrying about it.
Cheers,

Nice .... thanks for the info ....