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?s RE: Painting Plastic

Started by Flex, May 13, 2014, 04:01:38 PM

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Flex

While there are those that say "you can never go wrong with Basic Black", I'm thinking about adding some color to the plastic "furniture" on one of my Crosman builds. I did a search (on this forum) on painting plastic and was surprised to find that some were having issues with the "Fusion" line of Krylon spray paints. My wife has used the stuff on several occasions and seems to be having good results. The parts that I intend to paint, a fore grip, pistol grip panels and a rifle butt stock, are essentially new (i.e. minimally handled).

I have some (2 new cans) of the "Fusion" paint in River Rock. I also have an assortment of non-Fusion Krylon "Camo" paint (black, loam, olive drab and brown). My questions are: if I follow the directions, will the Krylon Fusion paint adhere AND dry properly on the forearm, grips and stock? Additionally, will it be OK to apply the non-Fusion "Camo" paint to the River Rock base coat? I know that there is a Krylon "Fusion" primer but since the cans states that no primer is required, I thought that I might spare myself $5 as well as yet another trip to WalMart. I also have some Rustoleum Ruddy Brown primer that I could use if it is thought to be appropriate.

Prior to searching the forum for info on this topic, I had read a few posts by members describing their "misadventures in painting" (and have had some misadventures of my own with different painting projects). I would rather this not be a trial and error project and will welcome any hints and/or tips that members may have on this topic. Thanks. Flex
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BigErn

#1
I have never tried the Krylon fusion paints, but pretty sure you can use it for your projects. The only bad thing I have heard is that it takes a very long time to dry/cure. I have painted many airgun parts since getting into this hobby. Plastic can be tricky to paint. I have always used Rustolium brand paints and primers with no issues thus far.

For plastic I use the Rustolium plastic primer which is white in color and you DON'T sand it before your topcoat. Rustolium also has paints that adhere to plastics without the use of primers. I have had success with this method as well. For heavy used plastic parts, I would use the plastic primer just in case. Again this is with Rustolium paints I get from Home Depot.

As far as using camo paint over the Fusion paint, that should be fine as long as the Fusion paint adheres well to the plastic in the first place.

cherokeesteve

#2
I have had good results with both krylon fusion and krylon camo spray paints (the camo cans I have say they use the fusion paint in them ). The camo paint dries quickly and doesn't run if applied sparingly. I always top coat with a matte clear coat and find the Rustoleum brand better than the krylon brand, the krylon clear seems more likely to run no matter how sparingly I apply, just my experience using both brands.
I also place a shop light just above what I've painted to help the drying process.
I'm like a lactating mother...I don't mind pumping

1377 w/green dot/laser, 2240 modded, T4 modded, 2289 modded, M4-177 modded, 2400 KT in CO2 and HPA.

Davio

Quote from: cherokeesteve on May 13, 2014, 06:51:10 PM
I have had good results with both krylon fusion and krylon camo spray paints (the camo cans I have say they use the fusion paint in them ). The camo paint dries quickly and doesn't run if applied sparingly. I always top coat with a matte clear coat and find the Rustoleum brand better than the krylon brand, the krylon clear seems more likely to run no matter how sparingly I apply, just my experience using both brands.
+1 on the fusion and the Rustoleum clear being a better product.
Silence is golden. Duct Tape is silver. Gravy is brown.

2400KT bulk fed repeater .22
2260 .22 w/ steel breech
2250XE .22
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Benjamin NP Trail .177
Crosman 2240 Camo .22
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Crosman 2300KT .22
Dan Wesson 8" .177
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Hatsan A44PA .25
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akula8608

I spray painted the 2400kt I just got with krylon Italian olive. Put on a good coat and a second coat 24 hours later. didn't touch it for a couple days to let it cure. Washed it down with some 409, rinsed with hot water first. Turned out great. Holding up wonderfully.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/krylon-italian-olive-indoor/outdoor-satin-spray-850115/
U.S. Navy Submarine Force 1986-2008

BigTinBoat

I just got some Rust-Oleum Camo paint that indicates it "Bonds" to plastic. Directions say to coat w/i like and hour or wait 24hrs. It also says that it could take 5-7 days to bond to plastic. I painted mine Saturday and am not touching it till this Saturday. I'll let you know how it works out.

BDS

Plastics 101 for the potential painters out there...

The reason these parts are called plastic is their physical state, which is "plastic" meaning moveable, or pliable or, at the molecular level, the molecule chains are not rigid like steel, glass and ceramic.

So, this is the primary reason that many plastics are difficult to paint or coat. Also, some of the chemicals (monomers or polymers) and solvents used to make plastics react badly or poorly with certain paint chemicals and solvents. This is why some paints never seem to dry on plastic parts. They can't dry if the chemicals are leaching into the plastic and reacting.

Rustoleum and few other makers have come along way in the past few years with plastic coatings but, for parts that will get handled or touched (a lot) there is also the durability factor as well as the surface reflectivity factor (fancy words for "it looks dull or faded").

Several light/thin coats of matte or semi-gloss clear over your base color is the way to go but... be sure it is compatible with your base coat and the plastic underneath. Clear coats can attack base coats especially if they are sprayed on heavy or "wet" and... if they get through the base coat (very likely) they can also react with the plastic and ruin your whole paint job (and day).
Brian

arkmaker †

#7
I was just doing a camo job on a 2240 ffor the throw down and completely destroyed it when I applied the 2nd color. I used rustolemum tan for the base and figured a flat black for the 2nd color. I used Fusion which I had on hand and it turned into a runny mess. The two paints are not compatible, so don't do it! So much for the thrown down  :( 
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

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Davio

The fusions are compatible with one another.

Also, there is high adhesion primer that is great to use on plastic that you do not want to scuff up to give it "tooth".  A light spray of it dries totally in minutes and then is followed with the "color(s)", then the clear.
Silence is golden. Duct Tape is silver. Gravy is brown.

2400KT bulk fed repeater .22
2260 .22 w/ steel breech
2250XE .22
Benjamin Discovery .22
Benjamin Marauder .25
Crosman 1077 WOOD .177
Crosman 1077 BLACK .177
Benjamin NP Trail .177
Crosman 2240 Camo .22
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Crosman 2300KT .22
Dan Wesson 8" .177
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Hatsan A44PA .25
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Crosman 1701-P .177

BigTinBoat

Quote from: arkmaker on May 14, 2014, 09:47:24 PM
I was just doing a camo job on a 2240 ffor the throw down and completely destroyed it when I applied the 2nd color. I used rustolemum tan for the base and figured a flat black for the 2nd color. I used Fusion which I had on hand and it turned into a runny mess. The two paints are not compatible, so don't do it! So much for the thrown down  :(

Thanks so much for posting this. (Sorry it happened though) I put my base of Green Rust Oleum Camo on and was going to use Tan Camo and then Black Fusion on top. Guess I'll go get a black in the Rust-Camo.

BigTinBoat

Quote from: Davio on May 14, 2014, 09:53:21 PM
The fusions are compatible with one another.



He's talking 2 different brands - Krylon Fusion and Rust-O Camo for plastics. I would have thought they would work together......maybe not enough dry time between?
I know when I tried enamel over a laquer (or vice-versa) (both rattle can) on alum it made a real fancy krinkle finish.

Davio

Quote from: BigTinBoat on May 14, 2014, 10:04:15 PM
He's talking 2 different brands - Krylon Fusion and Rust-O Camo for plastics. I would have thought they would work together......maybe not enough dry time between?
I know when I tried enamel over a laquer (or vice-versa) (both rattle can) on alum it made a real fancy krinkle finish.
Yeah, I understood that arkmaker had compatibility problems with the two different brands he had on hand, but just added (not argued) that I KNOW the Fusion colors (both camo and other colors as well) are compatible with one another.   :)
Silence is golden. Duct Tape is silver. Gravy is brown.

2400KT bulk fed repeater .22
2260 .22 w/ steel breech
2250XE .22
Benjamin Discovery .22
Benjamin Marauder .25
Crosman 1077 WOOD .177
Crosman 1077 BLACK .177
Benjamin NP Trail .177
Crosman 2240 Camo .22
Crosman 2240 polished .22
Crosman 2300KT .22
Dan Wesson 8" .177
Crosman Vigilante .177
Hatsan A44PA .25
Hatsan A44W .25
Sheridan 2260
Benjamin Trail NP XL .25
Benjamin Titan NP .22
Benjamin Marauder Pistol .22
Benjamin 392 .22
Sheridan C9 PB 50th Anniversary .20
Crosman 1701-P .177

BigErn

I will always stick with Rustolium paints for my projects, the camo paint line from them is excellent. Also very difficult to paint is aluminum so watch out for that one!

BigTinBoat

Quote from: Davio on May 14, 2014, 10:16:14 PM
Yeah, I understood that arkmaker had compatibility problems with the two different brands he had on hand, but just added (not argued) that I KNOW the Fusion colors (both camo and other colors as well) are compatible with one another.   :)

Gotcha - since I started with the Rust-O, I'm picking up a can of Black Rust-O (and save the fusion for another job).

BDS

Good call on the aluminum BigErn, it needs thorough cleaning and quick (really quick) primer coating before it oxidizes. 

The correct way to paint aluminum is to anodize or chem-film it prior to painting. Those processes seal the aluminum and prep it for paint. Bare aluminum is oxidizing as soon as it hits the atmosphere.
Brian