First impressions. 2289 Backpacker

[Blackdog]

I finally had a chance to shoot the 2289 that I got from Walmart.  It was $75 for the Doomsday bug out kit.  Right after I ordered the gun I immediately ordered the steel breech from Crosman and a scope from PA.  When I received it yesterday I dry fired it and ordered the muzzle brake from TKO.  Today I found time to actually fire the bare gun. 

The 2289 seems to be very accurate right out of the box.  The plastic sights are crap but they will be replaced with a scope soon anyway.  It needs trigger work but I knew that would be the case.  Pumping 10 times while target shooting is a drag especially when it's hot (it was 100 degrees today).  I'm thinking I'll use 5 pumps for target and 10 when I feel like I need it. 

Some questions:  I want a better trigger, what's the best fix?  How do you remove the front sight?  I'm still looking for the best pellet, I'm working on that.  What about the flat top piston/valve?  Is that a worthwhile conversion? 

I'm willing to spend another $50 on this thing.  I probably should have bought a Marurder in the first place!

Thanks!

[funnyrunner]

Put a wooden block against front sight and just tap it off with a hammer.
You'll love the TKO. It's super quiet.
Take off hand grips and polish up all contact points on trigger. A trigger shoe is nice also.
Have fun!!!

[mudduck48]

I'm willing to spend another $50 on this thing.  I probably should have bought a Marurder in the first place!
and LOL. I started out with a 1322 and now have over $300 into it and no FT valve. You are going to spend over $50 just for a flat top valve. I took my sons 2289G, just changed the trigger spring and the trigger pull went from over 6lbs to just over 3 1/2lbs. IMO, I would leave the gun alone and just shoot it. My sons gun likes the Crosman Premier HP.

[rangerfredbob]

For the trigger, the easy and free thing to do is to take off the stock and remove the spring you see, overcompress it in your fingers or in pliers a little at a time until it has about 1/8" of preload when installed without the gun cocked. This will make the trigger MUCH nicer. Some people cut the spring shorter, but I prefer this method...

[Flex]

I started out with a 1322 and now have over $300 into it and no FT valve.

Mr. MudDuck48, I've seen other posts where you make this comment. I'm having a hard time seeing where the $300 went. I know that California is expensive but still...$300? I'm not saying that you didn't spend what you have said, but there must be a lot goin' on inside of that gun
I'd just like to know  .
Flex

[Crosshairs]

Great gun I love mine super accurate.
Mike

[breakfastchef]

$50 is a limiting factor. Decide what you want from your air gun and figure out where to best spend the money.

A trigger job involving polishing contact points, shimming out some side-to-side play in the components, lightening the sear spring and using appropriate lubes will render the trigger acceptable. If you want an excellent trigger, then consider replacing the existing grip frame and trigger group with a two-stage setup from a Crosman 1701P. This change will require a simple modification to the hammer. Cost is @$50 last time I priced out the parts. Good thing is your trigger frame may net up to $40 on an airgun classfieds.

You want power? Adjustable flat top piston and flat top valve is the plug-and-play way to go. You can save a few bucks by flat topping your existing valve and doing a few simple modifications. If you do your own valve work, a piston can likely be had for @$30.

If you want to max out the existing valve and piston, you can achieve similar velocities as with a flat top setup. There is a lot of dis-assembly and testing to make that happen. A chronograph is pretty much a necessity in order to track the changes you make. Work involves stuffing the piston, shimming and pinning the pump cup, and some valve work. If you choose to go this route, get a replacement pivot pin that can be easily removed for when you have to tear the gun apart.

Another good thing to consider is an extended probe or flow-through bolt. Each set the pellet beyond the transfer port and will yield a small bump to consistency and fps.

Here are a few documents to read through. Some of the information may be out-dated or not applicable to you, but the general principles are still valid.
http://www.mp661k.com/sitedocs/13xx_HotRod.pdf
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1186970064/modding+the+1377+for+New-Bees
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2008/07/1377-project-trigger-job.html
http://www.airgunartisans.com/AABiohazardTunes.htm
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n3ro6yphs4ql2l4/orhYCuIPBw/Crosman%202289%20mods.pdf
http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/CFTech.htm

[Blackdog]

I disassembled the trigger and polished the contact points.  I also lightened the spring.  It's stock length was 1.34" now it's 1.20.  I didn't lubricant the trigger as it wasn't lubed before.  Maybe I should?

I managed to loose the safety spring ball bearing so I completely removed the assembly.

The trigger is light and very nice now. 

No need for any power mods as I can see a Marurder in my future. 

[rangerfredbob]

Marauders are nice , I treated myself to one a bit over a year ago and it is pretty sweet... I've taken starlings, dove, nutria and a couple shots at gophers (might have hit one...) with it and it is very consistent, quiet tack driver...

Just a note, watch HERE for refurbished units, the old style like mine went for $325 shipped, he threw in a refurbished hand pump for another $100. A note, hand pumping one of these is a workout...

I do like pumpers too, I have several of all the types of airguns... PCP is just easier until you have to pump them back up...

[breakfastchef]

The trigger is light and very nice now. 

After making changes to the trigger group, it is a very good idea to bump test the gun to make sure it will not fire if dropped or bumped. triggers can be lightened too much and create an unsafe situation.

[mudduck48]

Mr. MudDuck48, I've seen other posts where you make this comment. I'm having a hard time seeing where the $300 went. I know that California is expensive but still...$300? I'm not saying that you didn't spend what you have said, but there must be a lot goin' on inside of that gun
I'd just like to know  .
Flex

I built this gun over a year ago and I've slept since then.
2289 barrel off ebay. $38  14 1/2"
Blue fork barrel band. $50
Williams rear sight.     $45
William rear sight insert.$18
Steel breech               $48
Davio SS bolt              $20
Brass bolt handle        $20
1399 stock                 $25
screws & springs         $10
Crosman forearm        $13
Crosman 1322 phase II $40
That is aprox.          $327.00
The 1322 phase II I bought for parts. I used the brass valve, stronger piston, the grip frame assembly and the solid steel front pivot pin.  There is not much left on the original 1322, most of the parts have been changed.
That is how come I say over $300 in my 1322 Phase III.

[Davio]

Here is a custom build that will go to its home tomorrow.  It is all tricked out and passed $300 long before completion.  This weighs only 2 pounds 14 ounces, flat top valve and piston, boss buddy port, stainless roll pin replacement, sear spring adjuster, aluminum powder coated wire frame, aluminum breech, our super quiet 3D printed shusher, 14.5" barrel, extended probe, trigger shoe, etc. etc.  It just adds up.

[Blackdog]

I found a fix for the short stock.  It's a Limbsaver recoil pad size small.  It's 1" thick.  Works good so far.

[mudduck48]

Short stock? You must have a long LOP. The standard stock in over 15". Good find for you.

[agninja]

Op sounds like he's already tired of this gun and sees its limitations, and he just got it. 

If you aren't concerned with giving it another 75 fps with the flat top mod, then take that $50 and put it into a metal barrel band. The trigger mods are mostly free, which is nice. But accuracy and power mods will certainly cost you. The well known secret about modding Crosman guns is GETTING RID OF AS MANY OF THE STOCK PLASTIC PARTS AS POSSIBLE.

It's easy to hit the $300 mark on these with the standard array of mods. I mean, steel breech, barrel band, muzzle brake, scope rings, scope, flat top valve and piston, solid roll pin, extended bolt probe. And let's not even talk about cosmetic mods...