pumping question 1322

wbs1322 · February 11, 2019, 10:30:20 PM

new to pumpers I have a 1322 and was wondering are they supposed to feel smooth to pumping or do you feel it trying to stick. then let go then stick. ?Have I not oiled it enough. only shot about 500 pellets . Does have steel breech and carbine stock, lightened triger pull a little. any answer would be appreciated.

Kilmister · February 11, 2019, 11:18:24 PM

Hello and welcome to the world of pumpers! I play with these things more than any other model in toy box, hell for that matter the rest get ignored entirely. Any way I would be more than happy to help you figure out what, if anything is going on. If you want, why not just PM me and we can can get it sorted.
Cheers
p.s. they don't need much oil if you are using the right stuff, so don't start buying exon/mobile shares just yet.

Flex · February 12, 2019, 12:32:35 AM

Quote from: wbs1322 on February 11, 2019, 10:30:20 PM
new to pumpers I have a 1322 and was wondering are they supposed to feel smooth to pumping or do you feel it trying to stick. then let go then stick. ?Have I not oiled it enough. only shot about 500 pellets . Does have steel breech and carbine stock, lightened triger pull a little. any answer would be appreciated.

Welcome to a fun hobby and a great forum!!
I too, have a few Crosman pumpers and really enjoy them. Fun to shoot, easy to work on (and mod for performance and appearance

). Relatively inexpensive to start out

BUT you can throw lots of $$$ into them if you are so inclined

.
RE: your question, my experience is that they should feel relatively smooth through the entire pump stroke. As the number of pumps increase toward 10, you will notice that it is increasingly harder to pump and perhaps a slight reduction of required effort at the end of the stroke. I believe that to be linkage related and completely normal. BTW, you will read lots of posts and replies with folks stating that they are putting more than 10 pumps (sometimes a lot more

) into the valve. It's prolly OK at the lower number of extra pumps but it's possible to blow out some O-ring seals with excessive pressure. Just sayin'.
The piston cup and cylinder do need to be oiled occasionally but as kilmister said, only a couple of drops will be sufficient. I have a tube of Crosman Pell Gun Oil mainly because I thought it was required. I bought it about 6 years ago when I got into this hobby. I keep it in my range bag as that's more convenient than a quart of 30 weight non-detergent automotive oil (many will tell you it's the same stuff!)
RE: the "stick then let go then stick" that you describe (if not remedied by light oil application) could be caused by damage to the pump tube. Even the slightest dent in the tube could cause it. There also could be some rust in the tube, especially if the gun sat for a while in a high moisture environment. Tube damage would most likely be visible from the outside but disassembly would be necessary to examine the inside of the pump tube.
I'd say, put a few drops of oil in the pump tube then shoot a bunch of pellets. If there's no noticeable improvement, have a real close look at the pump tube for any dents or damage. If there are no obvious dents or dings, looks like a disassembly is in order. Watch a few YouTube videos and you'll have what you need to know.
Keep us posted, we're here to help (kinda, sometimes we're just here to show off our awesome airguns and brag about our mods

).
Good Luck and again, welcome to the forum!
Flex

wbs1322 · February 12, 2019, 01:35:04 AM

Thanks to Kilmaster And Felix Guess I wasn't oiling it enough , oiled it sparingly when I first got. guess it just wasn't enough pumping smooth now.

Hoosier Daddy · February 13, 2019, 04:44:49 PM

You may notice in the future what is known as "croaking". the noise when you pump sounds almost like a frog croak. That is usually remedied with a few drops of oil.
At least for me it lets me know it's ready for oiling.

Multigunner · February 15, 2019, 07:02:55 AM

Be sure to oil the pivot points of the pump lever assembly. also look for signs of binding.

PS
The Crosman Pellgun oil is a oil formulated for high performance aircraft engines in the 1930's and still marketed for use in marine diesel engines and off road vehicles.
The major additive is "Monolec" a mono molecular fluid that seals every microscopic crevice of metal leaving a near friction free surface and soaks into seals without degrading them.

For old dried out pump seals I like to soak with transmission fluid first. Once the seals soften and swell a bit I then use a few drops of Pellgun Oil every few hundred rounds.

wbs1322 · February 17, 2019, 09:23:40 PM

Thanks to Hoosier Daddy and Multigunner for your response on my problem fixed . I haddn't used enough oil the first time, reoiled , and it smooth pumping now. Thanks again.

ped · February 18, 2019, 06:28:21 PM

don't over oil it as you'll gunge the valve up

BillK · February 19, 2019, 04:21:39 AM

Not to be an asshat but, that's the reason I use MAC1 Tims Secret Sauce as a lubricant for my guns. Lubes but doesn't gum up over the years.

ped · February 19, 2019, 11:17:51 AM

totally agree Bill
Tims oil is far better than pelgun oil and whilst I don't use his due to shipping restrictions I use the same type of oil just UK sourced
I also use hydraulic oil

7624452 · February 19, 2019, 11:18:30 PM

I quit using the red stuff the first time I opened a valve and saw the red sludge. I think 30wt ND works fine and you can get several lifetime supplies of it for a couple bucks. I have been using the "secret sauce" for a long time and it works well for me.

Hoosier Daddy · February 19, 2019, 11:51:55 PM

Ever hear of Marvel Mystery Oil?
I hesitate to mention it because I have no long term evidence, but I mix that 50/50 with ATF.
Both are designed for o-rings.

nogolem · March 21, 2019, 03:32:47 PM

As questions come to lubricants, It becomes complicated for me to understand...
On our side of the channel, they say on the french forum that anything petroleum based would eat the rings...
I have the black/blue pump/valve from GMAC's which is fitted with an O'ring.... I admit I used tons of pellgun oil because It was written that It is good for crosman pumpers... but I discovered It is made from petroleum...
Now I read It gunges the valve... Maybe I'm good for opening everything....
where I'm a bit lost, even on the french forum each person has it's own advice/brand coming to lubricants....
Please help !
merci beaucoup all !

airmec · March 30, 2019, 10:56:15 AM

Quote from: nogolem on March 21, 2019, 03:32:47 PM
As questions come to lubricants, It becomes complicated for me to understand...
On our side of the channel, they say on the french forum that anything petroleum based would eat the rings...
I have the black/blue pump/valve from GMAC's which is fitted with an O'ring.... I admit I used tons of pellgun oil because It was written that It is good for crosman pumpers... but I discovered It is made from petroleum...
Now I read It gunges the valve... Maybe I'm good for opening everything....
where I'm a bit lost, even on the french forum each person has it's own advice/brand coming to lubricants....
Please help !
merci beaucoup all !

Hé salut nogolem, content de te voir ici

Yes Pellgun oil is a petroleum-based, detergents-free oil. In my personnal experience, this, or the other usually recommended non-detergent oils (SAE20 or 30), does not harm O-rings. You can also use air tools oil, or air compressor oil, and a multitude of other oils, like hydraulic oil and automatic transmission fluid. The idea being, better to lube than not, up to a point. If you can obtain an oil that fit in the generally accepted recommendations, you're good, be it transmission oil, SAE 20 or Secret Sauce. My own personnal view on the subject

Kilmister · March 31, 2019, 01:23:52 AM

O-rings, seals, any and all rubber, synthetic or non-synthetic, and parts manufactured from plastics. All of these CAN be adversely affected by the caustic properties of certain petroleum products, this does not mean they will be, just that some of them most definitely can be. If you buy your O-rings in bulk on Amazon from XXXXX in China you might want to be more careful what you put in moving parts. The same would be said for static parts with high pressures, ATF while great for certain properties also has the ability to eat the hell out of some seals. Usually when a petroleum distillate attacks seals, they tend to work really well for a time as they soften and swell initially. For obvious reason in these circumstances it's easy to be misled into thinking we are getting brilliant results from the lubricant, when in fact it is causing premature failure. Left alone the part would simply seize, or set to form. Since we are tinkerers, it would most likely fail next time we take it apart. I myself would probably blame the O-ring, or maybe myself depending..
Sorry long winded as always, point being though there is never one improvement or change to the exclusion of all others and lubes are not exempt from the rule. Petroleum can and will lube, FACT. It will also both shellac and attack over time. Quality O-rings will prevent 99% of the aforementioned problems but not shellacking, so what can you do? Well the answer is really very simple. All good lubes work just fine, we aren't dealing with anything extreme here for $%$% sake. Use good quality parts to start with, this should be a no brainier since we are putting compressed gasses next to our face (I am not saying I haven't done this and even more stupid in my time). Lastly since we don't have to worry about our quality parts degrading, just clean thoroughly every once in awhile and use an appropriate lube for long term storage.
Just my view on that whole subject