1377 first mod - trigger.

[Sweller]

I read somewhere, in the last day or two, that Crosman made up things like trigger groups on demand. I'll just hang on to that part number until the appropriate time comes and see if they will accommodate me when I call them.

[7624452]

It is a standard part, 2220-103 Assy, grip frame.

[arkmaker †]

The last P-Rod trigger assembly (2220-103) I bought from Crosman was $36.51.   That was 1-2 years ago.

I think I paid a little bit more than that for my 2400KT last year. Plus 4 bucks shipping. My favorite 22xx/13xx trigger group and worth the money. Don't forget the solid striker. Mellon has a great price on them.

[Sweller]

I'm loving CAPOF! Thanks everyone. What a great community.

[nervoustrigger]

I see you've gotten lots of good advice already but I'll point you to yet another DIY guide

https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,18078



Lots more pictures in the link.

[Sweller]

Thanks, nervoustrigger. I had read through those mods. I think the tip about using the flat glass is a particularly good one. I have a round piece that's formerly a vacuum chamber port that's at least 1/2 -inch thick and tough as nails.

We've been polishing, sanding, greasing, shimming (Wave washer?!? I hadn't seen one of those since my '67 Beetle!) and shooting! A couple of self-inspired mods of my own, I polished the rear blade to make it more visible, and I dabbed the top of the front sight with the brightest green acrylic paint we have. Helps me see a lot better and makes it easier to describe what a young shooter needs to do.

As it stands, the trigger is just about perfect for me. But for one small detail. SLOP! Geeze, the hole in the trigger is big enough to drive in a bushing. Mod #2: Replace the factory trigger. There's an aluminum one on eBay for $30 shipped. Anyone got a better suggestion?

Thanks again to everyone. We're hitting the bull at 10 meters!

EDIT: There was an email from Crosman waiting for me in my inbox letting me know that part number 2220-103 is currently out of stock, but to check back with them around the middle of the month. Something tells me this will be a much better investment than the $30 ePay trigger. Meanwhile, it works and we're having fun.

[Sweller]

To anyone that recently upgraded their 1377 with the Crosman 1701P trigger group:

Was there anything other than the factory kit needed to complete the upgrade?

[arkmaker †]

Yes, you need a solid striker. If not, the sear catches on the groove and will not shoot properly. Here is a write up if you want to do it yourself.


Or you can buy one here
https://mellonair.myfreesites.net


https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,18794.msg235997.html#msg235997

[Sweller]

Aha! I just figured out my confusion (maybe).

The terms "striker" and "hammer" are used interchangeably? Even Crosman seems to do it. On the 1377 Exploded View drawing, they list line item:

19 STRIKER, with no other reference to the term, and
37 HAMMER PIN with no other reference to the term.

And since 37 is inserted into 19, can I safely assume the terms "striker" and "hammer" refer to the same part?

Good morning! Still drinking coffee...

[arkmaker †]

That's correct. I started using striker a few years back as I've always been a revolver guy in the powder burner world. There is an obvious difference between what is considered a hammer in the two, even though they have the same result, getting there differs slightly. Inner workings of my mind!

[Sweller]

Very reasonably priced at $15 or $20 notched. But I'm unsure which of need with the Crosman 1701P trigger group on a 1377.

Notched or not?

[BillK]

Not notched.  That is the type of hammer I have always used & have been happy .
I am really not sure what the notch does or what it prevents.  Possibly the release of back pressure from the hammer?  IDK
  https://mellonair.myfreesites.net/odds-ends

[arkmaker †]

If your breech is using the rear 4-48 screw (under the bolt) position) then you need the notched striker. The notch allows the striker full travel without hitting the threaded portion of the screw that hangs down in the tube. If you have the forward position, you don't need the notch because the striker will not travel that far to the valve.


I normally use a notched striker regardless. If you've ever bent one of those screws and then worked on getting it out, you know what I mean.

[Sweller]

That rung a huge bell. It's hard to keep track off everything with all I've been reading. And I had read that the newest breaches had holes in both positions, too. I was hoping for a rearward screw because of the pellets snagging on the screw hole. Unfortunately, I didn't get one like that.

[Sweller]

I got impatient and got wildly different guess as to when the official kit would be back in stock. I don't deal well with unknowns, so I pieced together a 1701 group trigger from the official Crosman 1701P drawing. The order came out to $60.25 plus their standard $4 shipping. Not too bad. Meanwhile, I can start work on a modified hammer. I might even order one from Mellon Air, too.

1763-055   SET SCREW, 4-40 x .312, OV PT 
1763-055   SET SCREW, 4-40 x .312, OV PT 
1763-056   SCREW, 4-40 x .375, FHCS
2220-013   SCREW, ADJUSTER 
2220-015   HOUSING, ADJUSTER 
2220-018   FRAME, TRIGGER   
2220-019   TRIGGER
2220-020   LINK, TRIGGER 
2220-021   SEAR 
2220-022   SPRING, LINK 
2220-023   SPRING, TRIGGER 
2220-024   SPRING, SEAR 
2220-025   PIN, DOWEL, .125 X .375 
2220-025   PIN, DOWEL, .125 X .375 
2220-026   SCREW, 0-80 x .125, PPH 
2300-042   SETSCREW 8-32 x .25 BRASS TIP