Help me build my 2240!

[Abyssdncr]

Focusing some attention on the recently acquired 2240 now for the wife & kids who don't like pumping the pumpers - probably should have just started with a 2300T/S, but I guess that's always a future option.  I'm one of those people who has to plan out a full build to almost the end before I get started, so here's what I'm thinking.  Y'all who've already been there and done that - tell me where I should redirect for the purposes of punching paper.  Not looking for high velocities - 350 fps-ish should be fine and save on CO2.

Phase 1:

Base 2240
Alchemy magnetic extended bolt probe & handle
Hidden screw steel breech (do they make these in LH?)
1701P grip frame/trigger
Notched hammer
clipped hammer spring to dumb it down a little

Phase 2:

Walther Lothar barrel w/o divot, free floated
Huggett Belita

Sights - for now, steal the Sig STS-08s off my 1322 when I scope it, but some legit irons would be nice.  Not a huge fan of the 2 dot LPA rear sight w/o a matching front.  Still open to suggestions.

Does anyone do G10 grips like VZ grips in cool colors or something checkered laminate other than walnut/beech?

What else should I consider?

Thanks!
Brian

[fivestar45]

I'd forget about clipping the striker spring and just buy a power adjuster from Mellon or any aftermarket supplier.
All of the Crosman steel breech's that I've seen were finished poorly..sloppy fitting bolt bores, tool marks etc. and not available with left side bolt. Alchemy might have a better breech with left side bolt.
I also would not advise free floating the barrel on a 22xx based gun. That little 4/48 breech screw isn't up to holding the breech to the tube in a stable manner. Rather add a barrel band right at the front end of the breech.
Add a Pro-Top to a Disco valve body, and stem and you will be able to turn the power way down if you want and you will be able to access the valve parts from the front of the tube and not have to worry about a face seal pulling out.
In reality, you might have better off starting with a couple of boxes of parts as you are not going to retain much of the original 2240.

[Abyssdncr]

I'd forget about clipping the striker spring and just buy a power adjuster from Mellon or any aftermarket supplier.
All of the Crosman steel breech's that I've seen were finished poorly..sloppy fitting bolt bores, tool marks etc. and not available with left side bolt. Alchemy might have a better breech with left side bolt.
I also would not advise free floating the barrel on a 22xx based gun. That little 4/48 breech screw isn't up to holding the breech to the tube in a stable manner. Rather add a barrel band right at the front end of the breech.
Add a Pro-Top to a Disco valve body, and stem and you will be able to turn the power way down if you want and you will be able to access the valve parts from the front of the tube and not have to worry about a face seal pulling out.
In reality, you might have better off starting with a couple of boxes of parts as you are not going to retain much of the original 2240.

Great feedback - thanks!

1701P grip frame is on and functioning flawlessly.  There seems to be far less sight picture upset upon dry firing as compared to the OEM configuration.  Not sure how much of it is the trigger vs. the new Mountain Air hammer, but I like it!  It kinda had an open bolt mechanism feel to it before and feels more "closed bolt" now - not totally, but my group sizes speak for themselves.

Finally found Mellon's stuff, and that seems like a no brainer.

I have an Alchemy ambi steel breech on my 1322 and really like it, but its finish is a dull matte blue and I was really disappointed with the fit with a normal length Crosman bolt handle.  Screwed it tight to the bolt it binds up pretty tight - half a turn out it works fine though.  All in all, I'm pleased with it, and if one is going to get an extended bolt probe and use the factory rear sight, one isn't losing much by buying the stand-alone breech.  I may swap this over to the 2240 as I've got the 1322 scoped now...  Alliance offered to maybe have a custom LH hidden screw breech, but advised it would like be "pricey".  I didn't pursue further.

I went ahead and just got a base Crosman breech kit and plan to add two extra grub screws myself.  I intend to drill holes in the breech first like Alliance Hobby's 3 screw breeches, align the barrel & breech with the transfer port, lock the barrel in place with the existing grub screw, and then put a couple divots in the barrel directly under the holes, and then tap the holes for the grub screw.   Should be a better barrel to breech lockup, but I realize that does nothing to strengthen the 4-48 breech screw though, so good point.

Got a 2240XL thread adapter off ebay, and have another one theoretically in the mail from China.  The seller knocked the price down from $30 to $5 shipped, so I rolled the dice.  It's supposed to have two grub screws to pinch the barrel.  If it lines up right, I'd like to try a fiber optic front sight from the parts bin off a Ruger 22/45 4.5" bull barrel.  I know the Ruger barrel is a larger diameter than the thread adapter, but it'll be an experiment.  If that doesn't work, I'll try an AR-15 A2 front sight post threaded into the adapter.  Probably have to drill & tap an extra hole for that since the threads are 8-36.  Clearly another experiment, but this gun will be primarily for the wife, and she prefers iron sights to red dots.

I haven't gotten into the guts of this at all yet.  I do some more research on the valve recommendations though.

Switch direction toward a DonnyFL Tanto vs. the Huggett based primarily on price.  Tried the Koi on it the other day, and the performance was just like I was hoping for and I really like how it balanced the pistol out.  The Tanto is just 2" shorter, so I think it'll be an ideal match.  It's in the mail...

You're absolutely right about starting from parts - live and learn I guess.  Fortunately, it was only $60 delivered from Crosman off of eBay to start with, so I shouldn't be losing too much in the big picture.

Thanks again, fivestar!

-Brian

[fivestar45]

Have Fun

[Garmic]

My after market breeches have been from gmac, left handed with hollow probes

[jkingrph]

I just finished one today ( actually modified another) I started with a basic 2240 of ebay kept front sight and bottom tube, I used a 3 screw upper breech from Allied hobbies, 10" Lothar Walther barrel in .177, Boss RP valve, stainless bolt,  bolt with straight body.and built a 1701p trigger for it, two barrel bands.  I like the 3 screw breech, should help prevent any barrel droop.  It was rather straightforward, until it came time to attach the trigger/grip housing to the upper.  Initally it would not cock, and took a bit of playing with the two set screws in the trigger that control the length of first and second stage pulls, after that great.

After that one I modified my 2300s, basically changing to a straight body hammer and adding again a 1701p trigger, with the same initial problems. 

In all honesty if I were to do it again except for the power mods in the first one I would go with a Supersear and roller trigger I have in more of a sport/field model. The trigger on it where I lightly stoned the surfaces on the somewhat roughly machined surfaces that contact the trigger and hammer and added a Crosman adjustable sear spring assembly, giving a final pull of 12 oz, about 8 oz less than the 1701p triggers now.  I may try adjusting them down after some use, I need to read up on how to properly adjust them before proceeding.

[Abyssdncr]

Pretty happy with the 1701 trigger. Managed to shoot a 117/120 with it - getting closer to clearing a target, but not quite there yet...

[Noah]

VERY IMPRESSIVE! Great shooting as well!

If you are looking for some furniture for that shooter, I will be selling a few grip sets from the beloved Ralph Brown at RB Grips very soon, so, stay tuned. 

[BillK]

1701p trigger for it, two barrel bands.  I like the 3 screw breech, should help prevent any barrel droop.  It was rather straightforward, until it came time to attach the trigger/grip housing to the upper.  Initally it would not cock, and took a bit of playing with the two set screws in the trigger that control the length of first and second stage pulls, after that great.
See: 
https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,4561.120.html
Need to pull the trigger while attaching grip to the gun.

In all honesty if I were to do it again except for the power mods in the first one I would go with a Supersear and roller trigger I have in more of a sport/field model.

IMHO the 1701 frame/trigger is superior to the sup.sear/roller trigger and cheaper.

[jkingrph]

IMHO the 1701 frame/trigger is superior to the sup.sear/roller trigger and cheaper.

Thanks for than link about holding the trigger back. 
Actually the price for Supersear and roller bearing trigger came out a little less than the 1701, although not by much since I had to purchase all the parts separately.  In my very limited experience and small sample for comparison, I like the Supersear better, it has a lighter, shorter and crisper trigger pull . I have not had time to play with the adjustment screws on the 1701 so that may change, and will try them when I empty the CO2 cartridge currently installed.

One thing I can say about the Crosman parts, the 1701 parts are of a much better quality than those of a standard 22xx series.  They appear to be of machined steel with a good smooth finish vs what looks like a stamped sear for the 22xx series.

[crossliner]

I do like my Steve Super Sear and stainless Don Cothran Roller trigger combo.

It is sensitive, no slack, and breaks very crisp.

I did glue a thin and small O-ring on top of the trigger blade tongue to rid of any pre-travel.

It behaves as a preloaded trigger, but you have to nudge the trigger when you cock it, otherwise the sear and hammer won't engage.

It is as sensitive as my 2 Blue Fork trigger assemblies with Magnum Air Power Super Sears, which have no slack either.