PC77 Upgrading

[breakfastchef]

The Williams Notch sight is really very nice. I have one on my 2300KT.

Do some trigger work on your PC77. It makes the pistol shoot much better. By trigger work, I mean that you should polish all the articulating points and compress the original spring to reduce the pressure needed to fire a pellet. Spring compression is to your satisfaction and the pistol should survive  bump test to insure it will not fire unless the trigger is pulled. That simple procedure alone is really significant.

The comfort factor can be enhanced with some custom grips. You can get ambidextrous or specific-handed target grips. Your choice. Either way, you may be more accurate by pitching the OEM plastic grips.

[DRAGON64]

The Williams Notch sight is really very nice. I have one on my 2300KT.

Do some trigger work on your PC77. It makes the pistol shoot much better. By trigger work, I mean that you should polish all the articulating points and compress the original spring to reduce the pressure needed to fire a pellet. Spring compression is to your satisfaction and the pistol should survive  bump test to insure it will not fire unless the trigger is pulled. That simple procedure alone is really significant.

The comfort factor can be enhanced with some custom grips. You can get ambidextrous or specific-handed target grips. Your choice. Either way, you may be more accurate by pitching the OEM plastic grips.

The trigger has a fair amount of creep in it, so a good polishing is in order.  As for the spring, I believe that I am going to go with the spring na dguide combo from AC.  The only problem is, he does not have a market design released yet.

I have been working with Rick over at Airgrips for a custom grip set for both my 1322 and PC77.  This will come out looking/working quite nice.

[Aeroflot]

GREAT JOB!! I'd love to do something like this but I have no idea how the roll pins work, I could punch one out but I dont know how they go back in, if I did I'd put a nice forearm pump on mine.

[JEBert]

I'd love to do something like this but I have no idea how the roll pins work, I could punch one out but I dont know how they go back in, if I did I'd put a nice forearm pump on mine.

A roll pin is just that rolled into shape and made out of spring steel.  It is hollow and has a gap running lengthwise down it.  The ends are slightly rounded or tapered to help them get started into a hole.  They are slightly larger than the hole and when pushed or hammered in, they are held there by their own spring pressure.
For changing the 1377 forearm piece, if you don't have a 1/8" roll pin punch, use a 1/8" or slightly smaller punch.  A flattened nail will work too.  Just be sure it is NOT larger than the hole.  Also get a block of wood (a two-by-four works well) and drill a 1/4" hole in it.  Use the block of wood as an anvil and punch out the pins from right to left.  If your punch is nearly the same size as the hole, you should be able to re-use the roll pins.  They might get damaged if you use a punch that is too small.  If you damage them, new ones are cheap at an auto supply store or from Crosman.  I see that you are in the UK so get one of us on this side of the pond to order some for you.  I don't know why I don't haven't ordered some spares of those already, but I haven't.
For the pump arm, the size is 3/16".  I recommend replacing it with a solid pin kit or making your own.  I have done both.  I ordered Charlie Mellon's Stainless Steel Solid Pin kit for one of my 1377's and I homemade a solid pin for my other one..  If you decide to make one and need help, just ask, one of us probably has typed that out before and has it, or a link to it handy.  If you don't find the help you need, I can stick something in a drill to take pictures of to show you how.
DO IT!  That is how we learn.  I don't think you can mess up anything on that pistol that can't be repaired or replaced.
Cheers,
Jerry

[Aeroflot]

Thank you so much for your detailed response Jerry. I will get a roll pin punch from Ebay, just need to make sure I get the right size. I'd like to change the forearm and take the Roll Pin from the muzzle end so I can get the piston out to inspect the seals.

[DRAGON64]

Thank you so much for your detailed response Jerry. I will get a roll pin punch from Ebay, just need to make sure I get the right size. I'd like to change the forearm and take the Roll Pin from the muzzle end so I can get the piston out to inspect the seals.

This is the set I picked up at Wallyworld:

http://www.acetoolonline.com/Stanley-Hand-Tools-16-226-6-Piece-Punch-Set-p/stt-16-226.htm

[JEBert]

I forgot to add:
I can think of at least two exceptions to this rule but on most firearms, solid pins, sight dovetails and their corresponding holes and slots are slightly tapered and a bit wider on the left side and this keeps them from getting too loose after disassembling and reassembling them.  Roll pins are an exception to the above but in case the holes are tighter on the right so I would err of the side of caution and take them out right to left and put them back in from left to right.
Just to be sure you know the difference, Roll pin punches and regular pin punches are different.  Pin punches will work for roll pins in most cases but can damage them if the pins are stuck or very tight.  Roll pin punches have a little nub in the center of the end to insure that the pin stays centered on the punch.

Thank you so much for your detailed response Jerry. I will get a roll pin punch from Ebay, just need to make sure I get the right size. I'd like to change the forearm and take the Roll Pin from the muzzle end so I can get the piston out to inspect the seals.

Aeroflot,"
If you are not going to get a set, get one in 1/8" for the forearm and one in 3/16" for the pump arm pin that also holds the barrel band and front sight piece in the front of the pump tube.
Cheers,
Jerry