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Currently working on 1701 trigger frame for 1377

Started by chinaboy, September 09, 2012, 04:47:29 AM

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chinaboy

Can someone post a pic of what their 2 stage adjustments look like on there p-rod trigger frame?  What I mean is the two set screws that set the 1st and 2nd stage.  I think I would want the one to the right high enough to hold the trigger still as if once you touch the trigger it is already in the 1st stage.  And then I would think the left set screw for the 2nd stage would need to be adjusted to the sweet spot. 

With my old trigger I added a few washers in there to hold the trigger from wiggling.  Does the p-rod trigger frame need this? 

I almost lost my safety ball too.  Ha ha, then I found it.  I was like "you finally got me safety ball" until it turned up.  I'm going to shave the corner off my sear now. 

I hope this turns out well as my 1 stage trigger I worked over until it was real sweet. 

1377x

maybe this can help


since you have the trigger group on hand you tell us if it needs shims ??? i have it ,and its fine without shims jmo

when you shave the corner of the sear off it doesnt take much,very little needs to be removed
just wait til you pull the trigger its so short ,maybe its the way i have mine set up,you'll poo your pants :o ;D when you touch the trigger
closed mouths dont get fed

1377x

you see in the pic (d)the sear, how its touching the tube? very very little has to be removed

i dont have my gun in front of me but iirc i have (a) higher than (b)
closed mouths dont get fed

chinaboy

1377x, you know what I'm talking about.  I was thinking A should be higher than B.  But I'm definitely going to have to fiddle with this.  And I'm shaving that sear as we speak. 

breakfastchef

I left all my P-Rod/1701P triggers set the way I received them from Crosman. The settings are great for me right now. I located a photo of the trigger from my PC and retoched it so you have an idea of how the screws are set on a new grip frame unit. Hope this helps.
Larry

chinaboy

Yes, thats perfect. Thank you chef!  I wanted an idea of how they should be set.  And if you didn't touch your setting, then maybe I shouldn't mess with mine too much until I get an idea of how this thing shoots with the new trigger.

breakfastchef

Quote from: chinaboy on September 09, 2012, 05:49:14 AM
Yes, thats perfect. Thank you chef!  I wanted an idea of how they should be set.  And if you didn't touch your setting, then maybe I shouldn't mess with mine too much until I get an idea of how this thing shoots with the new trigger.

You speak wisely. It is always a good idea to test and note changes with every modification you make. You then can appreciate the victories and goofs along the journey.
Larry

1377x

i changed my setting
i like the way its set up now.
you make it so there is travel you can make the pull heavy
me i wanted mine as light as possible and still be safe.with this trigger group i achieved that
closed mouths dont get fed

chinaboy

#8
I think you would want it so  you feel tension as soon as you touch the trigger and then the 2nd stage where you want it.  I'm thinking the 2nd stage adjusts greater or lesser total travel before the triggering.  I'll have to play with it.

For tonight my drill has no power in the battery so I have to stop for the night and pick up tomorrow (grinding the sear corner).  Thanks for the help tonight!  Although I bet I'll have one of those repetitive thoughts while I sleep.  You know the ones, where you keep thinking of the latest mod your in the middle of or the part your going to order next.  Or is this just me? 

1377x

thats funny!
i fall asleep thinking about the 9mm build i want to do
you are not alone!
closed mouths dont get fed

Fronzdan

What's the reason for shaving off that small bit of sear again?  If you don't, does the sear not engage the hammer deep enough?  And is the result a shorter pull or an unsafe condition?

chinaboy

http://www.kalman.org/chris/Images/P1020060.JPG

If the link works it shows where to shave off the sear.  The sear hits the bottom of the tube on a 1377.  I think the 2240 does need this to be done, only the 1377.

chinaboy

I got the thing hooked up now and worked on it for 2-3 hours.  Damn, just one mod always seems easy and then it turns into ten things you didn't play to happen.  I almost lost the safety ball another 20 times.  I'm going to strip the tiny screw fastening the breech and the disco spring is much trickier to install then I thought. 

My thoughts on the 2 stage trigger so far are as such...
You sacrifice some wiggle in the trigger to have the first stage.  If I add a washer next to the trigger it makes it too tight that 1st stage disappears. Some wiggle is necessary for the 1st stage to work.

I went right at it playing with A and B to make the stages to my liking.  I learned I should have kept them very similar to the factory setting.  However, by playing with them with trial and error I did learn how to set the trigger the way I wanted, and what does and doesn't work. 

I still have to shoot it and play with the trigger some more before I give a final report.  But so far it was a lot of work for only a second stage when my original 1 stage trigger was sweet.  I did cram my trigger shoe on it so that pleases me.  So, I'm going to take it to the range! (my garage).  Then I'm sure I'll have some more opinion after that.

Oh yeah, and I added in my disco spring for the hammer and it seems like a totally different gun.  This definitely added to a different feel to the gun that will take some time getting used to.

1377x

run some pellets down range,then give us a range report
the thing i like the most about the 2-stage trigger group is the short trigger pull.i do not like creep and long pulls
i move my trigger less than a 1/8 of an inch .its tap very little effort.dont have to worry about being off target by the time the gun fires
at first i would blow my shots because i wasnt ready when the gun fired,now i know when its going to break.
my local air gunsmith was shocked by the trigger pull.its a nice trigger but nothing like a fwb80.
closed mouths dont get fed

arkmaker †

When I got my 1701 from Quickster, he had the trigger set so light and one stage that I could not hit anything! I'm talking breath on it and crack!!  Sounds like yours 1377.


I had to put the 2nd stage back. So now I have a nice long easy pull and it stops. Just a few ounces more of pressure and crack!!! I love it, but I admit, that I really need to think about my trigger pull (bringing it in to the breaking point). Time and more practice and it will become natural  :-*  Still like my Browning trigger, but now that I have put a few hundred rounds thought the 1701 it is time to shoot the Brownie again and feel the difference. See, an excuse to go to the PB range  ;D ;D
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22