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OLDER 1377 C clip removal

Started by mudduck48, September 09, 2012, 11:28:56 PM

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mudduck48

yes, targettgii I said beer. I'm working on a 12pk of Sam Adams Harvest Collection that my brother in law brought over for my B-day.
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

1377x

everyone says their barrel is shot out.some of the barrels from the phase 2 guns came with shallow rifling
but i know what you mean.the nos barrel i had did have deep rifling.
i'll give him a shout tommorrow if he says he can fing it i'll pass along his info.otherwise i'm going down to the shop on saturday to pick up my 12" .177 barrel thats going on my phase 2 1377
closed mouths dont get fed

mudduck48

  Hi 1377x; mudduck48 here. This barrel is "shot out".  The riffling is all but gone and it has deep pits all the way down. I would not even try to sell this on ebay. You could use it for bb's, but I don't think you would get too much out of it with pellets. I just need a stock barrel. I tried to get on Crosman's web site looking for parts and can not find where the parts are. Is the stock barrel for the phaze 3 the same for the other older 1377's?  Thank you for your time and help.


We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

cmj21973

#18
Quote from: mudduck48 on September 13, 2012, 05:39:42 AM
  Hi 1377x; mudduck48 here. This barrel is "shot out".  The riffling is all but gone and it has deep pits all the way down. I would not even try to sell this on ebay. You could use it for bb's, but I don't think you would get too much out of it with pellets. I just need a stock barrel. I tried to get on Crosman's web site looking for parts and can not find where the parts are. Is the stock barrel for the phaze 3 the same for the other older 1377's?  Thank you for your time and help.

Post a pic of the breech and barrel so we know what you got to work with.
Heck, post pics of the entire 1377.
From 1977 to 1980 they had a steel breech & barrel ass'y.

1377x

Quote from: mudduck48 on September 13, 2012, 05:39:42 AM
  Hi 1377x; mudduck48 here. This barrel is "shot out".  The riffling is all but gone and it has deep pits all the way down. I would not even try to sell this on ebay. You could use it for bb's, but I don't think you would get too much out of it with pellets. I just need a stock barrel. I tried to get on Crosman's web site looking for parts and can not find where the parts are. Is the stock barrel for the phaze 3 the same for the other older 1377's?  Thank you for your time and help.



didnt know about the pits
a lot of the phase 2 barrels did come with shallow rifling almost none existent,from talking to people rifling doesnt need to be deep to make an accurate barrel.fx barrels are smooth bore until the last 1.5"-2" and they are among the most accurate barrel you can get also the most expensive
i know i can get the phase2 barrel ,i saw them.if you want to switch to a phase 3 set up thats possible too
if you have a credit card you can get it yourself, let me call my local he'll will let me know if he still has them,im sure he does
ill let you know what he says then pass his info on to you
closed mouths dont get fed

1377x

Quote from: mudduck48 on September 13, 2012, 04:59:58 AM
yes, 1377x I have a phaz 2 gun. The rear cocking one.  My barrel is shot out. The rifling is all but gone and it is pitted. If you know where I can get a new or use barrel, I would appreciate it.  Thank  you for your time.
checked on the barrel for you today.i have some bad news,he used up the last of his old barrels.
you have a few other options now.
1) go with a steel breech,current style barrel/bolt.the gun will still use the rear cocking knob
2) get a current style plastil breech and barrel/bolt.rear cocking knob will still be used
3) get any aftermarket breech any current barrel and bolt.still use the rear cocking knob
  any way you go you need the current style breeches,barrels and bolts.all a direct fit no mods needed and the rear cocking knob will still be used
the rear sight will fit the current plastic breech
hth
ED
closed mouths dont get fed

mudduck48

Hi Ed; mudduck48 here. Thank you for trying to find a barrel for me. I guess what you are saying that the new barrel will not replace the old barrel. You know, someone out there has modified the older gun and changed it to a 22 or a longer barrel. There is one out there somewhere. I just need to keep looking. Again, thank you for your time and effort.
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

1377x

#22
Quote from: mudduck48 on September 13, 2012, 08:17:19 PM
Hi Ed; mudduck48 here. Thank you for trying to find a barrel for me. I guess what you are saying that the new barrel will not replace the old barrel. You know, someone out there has modified the older gun and changed it to a 22 or a longer barrel. There is one out there somewhere. I just need to keep looking. Again, thank you for your time and effort.
yes,i do know someone who has changed the old 1377's over to current parts,ME :)
heres some pics of the guns i converted
this is my phase 2 1377 with steel breech and bolt


same phase 2 now polished with steel breech/.22 bolt and current barrel .22  14.5" 2250 barrel


heres my phase2 with the phase 1 1377


heres the phase 1 1377 with current plastic breech/bolt and current barrel


heres the differences in the phase2 breech/bolt and the current steel breech/bolt.notice the size of the phase 2 bolt compared to the .22 bolt of the current steel breech


the current production parts for the 1377/1322 guns are a direct fit to the old phase 1 and phase 2 1377's.no modification necessary
hth,
ED
closed mouths dont get fed

onebaddj

Ive also got a 1377 with cocking knob. Went with the croked barn aluminum breech and bolt with 14 in mellon air barel. Set up works good. Small groups no leaks. Also have flat top piston and valve from mellon air and the aluminijm front barrel band with fiber optic sight. I almost changed out the knob and internal parts to make it bolt action but kinda like the fact that i can have it loaded and pumped but still have to pull that cocking knob. Kinda like an old single action pistol.
i wasnt born with enough middle fingers. Marolyn manson.

mudduck48

Wow, that looks nice. I thought that I had fixed this thing. I took the barrel off and the piston out and sprayed PB Blaster inside. Let it soak over night, drained out the PB blaster put seal glide on the piston cup, stuck it back in put the pin in and pumped it up. It worked. Spent over an hour putting it back together and buried a bb into 3/4" pine and 25ft. put a pellet in it, same thing. Tried to pump it up again. Put another pellet in and poop, nothing. RATS! Now I have to take it completely apart to change the o-rings in the valve. I'm trying to make do with what I have.   
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

1377x

the conversion over to current production parts,barrel,plastic breech and bolt,seal kit should run under $20 shipped from crosman no more than $25 shipped at most
some of us might be able to help out for cheaper
closed mouths dont get fed

mudduck48

Well thanks Ed.  Well, I did it, I took this thing completely apart. I even took the valve apart. It has the 2 piece check valve in it. I do have another question. On the pin that the hammer hits, where the steel part goes into the brass part, there is some green stuff. Was that some kind of seal at one time? The inside of the valve is tapered, it looks like maby it is supposed to be a metal to metal seal.  I'm going to clean everything up with contact cleaner, emery out the tube, change the o-rings, and try to get it back together.  Like my daddy used to say "any dern fool can take it apart, it takes a mechanic to put it back together"
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

1377x

there is some kind of seal inside the brass valve stem
there is a pictorial here showing how to put an o-ring in it and it works
unless there is rust inside the tube i would just clean it.
take care not to enlarge or shine the piston side of the tube.to big or to slick the piston might not seal
closed mouths dont get fed

mudduck48

well, I figured that. Crosshairs on his youtube vid said to emery the tube to get the burrs off. And I got to thinking that you only need to check the front part not the part where the piston rides. Thanks for the heads up. I tried to post a picture of the valve stem, but, it would not let me attach the photo. Tomorrow I'm going to clean out the valve and put a new o-ring in it, put it in my vice and pump it up with the air compressor. Maybe about 20lbs to start off with, if it holds I'll  push the pin and see if it farts. If it does, I'll put 40lbs in it. If it holds I'll start to put this thing back together. 
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

mudduck48

Hi 1377x. mudduck48 here. Well, here we go again. I'm in the process of putting it back together. I did like you said and put an o-ring on that valve stem, put it together and put 120lbs air into it and it seams to hold. I just broke for lunch. Now back to it.
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.