Triggers in Stock NOW just ordered P-Rod trigger from Crosman - Hammer question?

[markasaurus]

For my 1322.  Yipee!  (Part #2220 - 103, for $37, plus a spare sear because people say they break, part 2220 - 021, $5) and $4.00 shipping. 
The nice lady at Crosman said they make up the trigger groups as people order them.  Not an off-the-shelf thing so it takes 8 or 1o days or so... and this is fine because I don't have a hammer yet!

I figured for what I would spend trying to sort out the stock trigger (roller trigger for $50 or something who knows?  Airgunsmith sells trigger and sear for $53 and that is fo rthe stock trigger...you know how it goes with the 13xx...).  So I read up on it and just decided to get the P-rod trigger. 

Is there a source for the solid hammer? - I can't really make my own without chewing up a bunch of hammers and the whole thing winds up looking the larry and curly did it. 

[1377x]

yes.so far he is the only one who has stepped up to the plate
you can ask lloyd sikes of airgun lab .he might do it
nothing wrong with the jbweld mod
if you look through the p-rod 1377 adaption thread i think there is a post there ,where someone put a sleeve around the hammer

[markasaurus]

Yes I was reading that post, he turned it down on the lathe for the bronze bushing?  It sounds like a great idea but I am not sure I am really equipped to do that.  I have access to a fairly powerful drill press at work,  belt sander, grinder, and wire brush, that's about all.  If i can turn it down with files by clamping a hammer in the drill press i might give that a try...Aren't those hammers pretty hard? 

[breakfastchef]

Filling the waist of a 1377 hammer is really not difficult and no special tools are needed. Get the two-part JB Weld putty. Cut off a small bit and knead the putty for a minute or so. The roll it out on a flat surface into a little cylinder shape. Wrap around the hammer waist and press in. Roll the hammer on a flat surface to purge any trapped air and to push the putt in evenly. Leave it for 24 hours.

Next day, cut, sand or grind the excess putty flush with the hammer surface. If you can find a dowel or similar object to shove tightly into the hammer hole, you can chuck it in a drill or drill press to make the sanding go faster.

[markasaurus]

Thanks Larry, the sounds like what I am going to do...from experience the crosman parts will be here in a week or two, I also did a second order to get one additional stock hammer ($4) from crosman.  I will keep the new hammer and mod my old one.  (I am getting so much spare parts now, from all the mods i have done, I am almost ready to build another pistol
! So that's maybe my next project.)
I ordered the solid hammer and the crosman parts will be here before it so going to take a while, so i will mod the old hammer to use for my new trigger group til it gets here.  I am excited about this new project, the new hammer will be so much more precise then the stock 13xx setup.  And the fact is i think i like tinkering with the guns more then shooting them....

QUESTION I just ordered some 2240 grips from Mr Brown, are they going to fit the p-rod trigger group???

[breakfastchef]

QUESTION I just ordered some 2240 grips from Mr Brown, are they going to fit the p-rod trigger group???

You will have to clear some stock to make room for the spring adjuster on the P-Rod grip frame. Real easy and it does not matter if you take too much since you won't see it. I traced a pencil line through the frame on to the backside of each grips so I had a guide to follow. Dremel works fine. I ended up chucking a Dremel router bit into my cheap-o drill press to make the stock removal faster.

[1377x]

the rb grips need to be modded from what i have read
where the adjuster sits on the frame.i think thats needs a little inletting

[markasaurus]

Breakfast chef all i have is a drill...is there any way to show me where, what shape and how deep i am gonna have to cut the grips?  Is it possible to do it some other way like say, a hand chisel or a dremel?

[1377x]

hopefully breakfastchef will chime in.i dont have any experience with wood grips

[Fronzdan]

Once you get the grips together with your new frame it will be obvious what needs to be removed and how simple the task is.  It can be done with a chisel...heck you could use a sharp knife to hack out the small amount of wood if you had to.  For a really clean job though a Dremel grinding bit works the best.  You only have to make room for the sear spring guide. It's a little fatter than the bare spring used in the standard grip frames.

[breakfastchef]

Once you get the grips together with your new frame it will be obvious what needs to be removed and how simple the task is.  It can be done with a chisel...heck you could use a sharp knife to hack out the small amount of wood if you had to.  For a really clean job though a Dremel grinding bit works the best.  You only have to make room for the sear spring guide. It's a little fatter than the bare spring used in the standard grip frames.

Yea, what he said.

[Fronzdan]

Filling the waist of a 1377 hammer is really not difficult and no special tools are needed. Get the two-part JB Weld putty. Cut off a small bit and knead the putty for a minute or so. The roll it out on a flat surface into a little cylinder shape. Wrap around the hammer waist and press in. Roll the hammer on a flat surface to purge any trapped air and to push the putt in evenly. Leave it for 24 hours.

Next day, cut, sand or grind the excess putty flush with the hammer surface. If you can find a dowel or similar object to shove tightly into the hammer hole, you can chuck it in a drill or drill press to make the sanding go faster.

Ok I'm getting impatient waiting for more solid hammers to arrive.  The prod frames I picked up have been just sitting unused for a month now.  It's time to try this hammer mod myself...

Chef....which putty version of JB Weld did you get?  Is it the one called SteelStik?  And how many sticks does it require to do a 13xx hammer?  I notice the putty version isn't as strong as the epoxy version...does that matter?

[breakfastchef]

I used the putty stick I found a Lowes. It came is a plastic tube about 3/4" in diameter and maybe 5" long. You need very little. As I recall I cut off about 1/4"-3/8" of the stick, kneaded it for a minute or so and went to work. The putty stick was cleaner and easier to use, for me, than the two-part epoxy.

Ok I'm getting impatient waiting for more solid hammers to arrive.  The prod frames I picked up have been just sitting unused for a month now.  It's time to try this hammer mod myself...

Chef....which putty version of JB Weld did you get?  Is it the one called SteelStik?  And how many sticks does it require to do a 13xx hammer?  I notice the putty version isn't as strong as the epoxy version...does that matter?

[1377x]

the only thing that matters is it gets hard.if it stays soft the sear will wear through it.i have seen some bad jbweld work with not enough hardener used and the users blamed the jbweld.with my 1377, i used quick weld, the weakest version of jb weld, over 300 uses and no wear present
steel stick should be fine.if you have some 2 part epoxy already just use that its not messy or hard to work with i just did a 22xx hammer that i sold because i got a p-rod hammer for my 2300 build
i think its better to use the quick weld or any fast setting epoxy although i did use the strongest version of jb weld it takes 14 hours to set.you could make a gear tooth with it and it will as long as the rest of the gear.i set it over anything warm it sets faster.any extra that is put on it will be taken off so over run isnt an issue