2250 Outdoorsman

arkmaker † · October 21, 2012, 07:09:04 PM

Starting to get things together for an Outdoorsman build. I got this stock in a package deal. Made by "The Tree Rat Hunter" and it was in pretty rough shape looking like it just came off the shaper, router (possibly a cnc router) or whatever he uses. I bought one of those mouse sanders about 10 years ago when walking through Sears. I think I paid less than 15 bucks for it. Just a deal I could not pass up! Well, it took me a while before I found a use for it, but I have positive feedback to report. You can hook up all kinds of fingers to it to make contours and radius sanding a breeze. A fine tool.

Back to the build. I kind of screwed this up already. I have some dark walnut stain that I was going to use, but I grabbed the Honey Maple and did not realize until I had wiped some on. Ahh crap! Well, I usually apply a first coat and then go back and sand anyways so this is not a show stopper. I learned that trick from my Freshman High School teacher. The first coat will show up any flaws and allow you to go back over it with the paper to blend them out. Waiting a bit for it to dry and then back to it.

In the end, I will add an extension to the butt plate as it is about 3-4" to short for my liking. Here is the upper and stock pics. Waiting on a M-rod grip frame for a finished product. I have a semi-hot valve for it!
Rich

chongman · October 21, 2012, 09:54:18 PM

A very nice stock! I love that Outdoorsman carbine, it's always out of stock at Crosman, PA, etc. or I'd have bought one a long time ago.

tinker · October 21, 2012, 10:11:42 PM

Looking good, and I thought you were just a machinist

Glen

1377x · October 21, 2012, 10:40:02 PM

nice!
how are you going to use the m-rod trigger group with that stock? or do you mean p-rod trigger group?

arkmaker † · October 21, 2012, 11:10:26 PM

They have them in the Custom Shop!! Could always go that way for a stock.

Just some sanding and varnish.

P-rod or 1701P trigger frame is what I was meant.

1377x · October 21, 2012, 11:14:26 PM

Quote from: arkmaker on October 21, 2012, 11:10:26 PM
They have them in the Custom Shop!! Could always go that way for a stock.

Just some sanding and varnish.

P-rod or 1701P trigger frame is what I was meant.

i kind of thought thats what you meant
being arkmaker i also thought you had a trick up your sleeve.
that would be cool if you could use a m-rod tg

arkmaker † · October 21, 2012, 11:45:07 PM

No sense reinventing the wheel!

Davio · October 22, 2012, 02:07:57 AM

Quote from: arkmaker on October 21, 2012, 07:09:04 PM
I have a semi-hot valve for it!
Rich

What is a semi-hot valve?

Please define as I am curious what you did and did not do?

arkmaker † · October 22, 2012, 04:58:00 AM

I did not open up the insides as much as I could have. Only angled the port and lost a couple of threads and used a lighter spring. I might go back in and reduce the stem a bit as well. That's it.

Adding volume to the valve is always an option with a 2250 tube. I could make a longer nose, but then I would need to make a custom piercing pin and reduce the length of the cartridge cap shaft. That is a lot of work if I can't get enough out behind the pellet before the stem closes up again? It does remain another option if I am not happy with the results.

Davio · October 22, 2012, 05:13:00 AM

Quote from: arkmaker on October 22, 2012, 04:58:00 AM
I did not open up the insides as much as I could have. Only angled the port and lost a couple of threads and used a lighter spring. I might go back in and reduce the stem a bit as well. That's it.

I thought that was what you were referring to, but wondered if instead of moderation you left something completely out. I would venture a guess that most of the gains can be had with just the porting angle and just the additional volume from working the body (and leaving the stem alone).