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Noob lube question for a pumper (1377)

Started by Tater, October 27, 2012, 11:00:55 AM

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Tater

I'm close to attempting my first airgun mods ever and I've been searching here and GTA for all the tips I can get. Pellgunoil on the pump hinges should be no problem, but I keep reading about lubing O-rings as well and I'm not sure which ones are referred to or how to get to them and if they can be lubed in place or need to be removed.
Basically, I'll be adding a steel breech, 12" barrel (when I receive it) and bug out pump arm. If this is all I do will I be able to access the O-rings I need to lube or would I need to take it apart further? I'm considering opening up the trigger assembly to attempt a deburr and lube to but I'm nervous about that. I have some packets of moly a guy at a local Honda gave me and and Pellgunoil.
I've read tons about this here and learned a lot but I'm still a bit unclear and hope to get it right the first time.

Edit - This is with a brand new 1377. If anyone knows of a video or complete noob guide about this please do send a link. I have watched some tear down videos but most just gloss over lube points/O-rings. Probably too basic for most people.
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

storsy

When you fully open your pump arm, you will see an o ring on the piston, a little drop on that ,and a drop or two in the space in front of the piston, is all i do.
With a drop on the bolt o ring now and then.
I'm no expert, but i've had no probs. doing that.
it is ok that we protect animals rights,
But much more important,
We protect our HUMAN rights.....

Scotland-UK

1377x

the only time i lightly oiled my oring in the valve is when i had it apart. 20 years my old oring sat in the gun and it didnt need any oiling.the outside oring i only oiled it to help slide it down the tube.im not an expert but those orings last a long time.the orings on a piston i keep lubed a dry oring moving back and forth will create heat and premature degeneration,resulting in loss of performance
i lightly oil my bolt oring only when it goes dry cant really say how long beore i do so or how many shots never paid attention
yesterday i gresed my sear and trigger pin for the first time wow talk about silky movement i wont grease again until its gritty
the pivot pin and pump lever joints were greased also
i think the manual tells you how often to do maintanence on lubing right? check the manual see what it says
closed mouths dont get fed

0351_Vet

I'm thinking about trying some of this grease. Another member mentioned it.
www.nraguncare.com
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Tater

#4
The manual only says to oil the pump cup and pump hinge which I've done, Is the pump cup what you mean Storsy? I don't see an oring in there.
Could moly be ued on the trigger/sear? What I have isn't a thick grease but very thin. It looks like and has consistency of soy sauce in the packets.
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

1377x

thats what he means
he probably assumed you had a flat top piston
closed mouths dont get fed

Tater

Quote from: 1377x on October 27, 2012, 07:40:25 PM
thats what he means
he probably assumed you had a flat top piston

Someday....     :D
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

storsy

#7
Quote from: 1377x on October 27, 2012, 07:40:25 PM
thats what he means
he probably assumed you had a flat top piston

Sorry mate, i did make that assumption.
I only put a drop or two in after a rebuild, but i have now added a felt washer to my piston, behind the "o" ring, so i am just going to keep that lightly oiled from now on.
it is ok that we protect animals rights,
But much more important,
We protect our HUMAN rights.....

Scotland-UK

Tater

I hope this is OK, but I did put a drop stuck pistol I think? Right where Storsy said said but there's no oring, I just put it on the plastic part. Did I mess up?
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

chongman

Give use a good picture Tater, show what/where your doing it.
Long days and pleasant nights to you...

Tater



I found this pic on the web. With the pump arm open all the way, I lubed (one drop) the small plastic cylinder in the very back of the slot underneath the tube. The end of the slot closest to the trigger.
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

chongman

Hey Tater, I was looking for a picture of your pistol showing where your oiling point...no matter.

I hope this picture shows what you need to know. A drop of pellgunoil on the rubber cup at the end of the piston is the, as I know it, the correct oiling point.

Long days and pleasant nights to you...

Tater

Cool, the you Chongman. Right where the tip of the arrow is is exactly where I put a drop of pellgunoil.
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

Tater

I just mounted the steel breech and I'm about to test it out. The one weird part was that the tiny barrel set screw sticks up from the breech a bit. Is it supposed to be flush or is that how they typically are or does a couple of threads stuck out of the top?
Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

1377x

Quote from: Tater on October 28, 2012, 05:30:24 AM
I just mounted the steel breech and I'm about to test it out. The one weird part was that the tiny barrel set screw sticks up from the breech a bit. Is it supposed to be flush or is that how they typically are or does a couple of threads stuck out of the top?
functional wise it doesnt matter
cosmetic wise user choice.i use the hex wrench that fits in the set screw put it to the grinder usually it justs takes the removal of the cup,which you should remove anyhow if you dont like it cutting into your barrel leaving the circle cut marks
closed mouths dont get fed