• Welcome to Crosman Air Pistol Owners Forum.

What work did you just do?

Started by Fronzdan, October 27, 2012, 04:25:40 PM

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

Tater

Jerry

NW Chicago suburbs

Crosshairs

For months i have had a old first version of the 760 apart i started preping the barrel for polishing and all the metel for paint. I rebuilt the brass valve.Hope to get it back together soon.
                    Mike
Treat people the way you want to be treated, Life will be so much better !!!

1377x

Quote from: Fronzdan on December 01, 2012, 05:50:55 AM
Did that start out down to bare metal?  Wow that came out great!
i used the blue remover that came with the kit but it still had a slight tint.i used some 2000 grit sand paper to work out the sctratches then fine steelwool to blend the scratches from the sandpaper.the kit came with a small piece of sandpaper that didnt feel as aggressive as the 2k grit cloth backed sandpaper i used, then started the process.
after the results i got the bashing of cold bluing stopped
a few coats will not get the desired results,it's a tedious process
used almost the whole bottle of blue on a 16" barrel.
the first time i used the bc cold bluing kit i didnt use heat and only applied a few coats and the results were disappointing same with the second time
still scared to tackle a bigger piece like a tube but when i get a bigger bottle of cold bluing,i'll see what happen.
another thing i did was applied it in one direction,when i went back and forth with the blue soaked towel i got streaks and had to start over >:(
i have no experience well very very litle experience this being like the third time i used it,using the info i found online about cold bluing the most valuable being the heating of the part to be cold blued.i have no idea if heating the oil for soaking the end results had any effect but i did it just in case
when you are drying the coats with a towel and the bluing comes off then somewhere something went wrong.for degreasing i used plain unsented,non-colored dish soap , no lotions,iirc its for sensitive hands and no other additives are used.cold water rinse  well thats in the instruction
oh almost forgot wear nitrile gloves i got mine from harborfreight 5 or 6 mil not the 3mil
closed mouths dont get fed

JEBert

Thanks for all the info Ed!  I'll have to give it another try.
Cheers,
Jerry
NRA Life Member
USAF Veteran 1973-1977 (43151E) Sgt (E-4)


1377x

Quote from: JEBert on December 01, 2012, 06:04:32 PM
Thanks for all the info Ed!  I'll have to give it another try.
Cheers,
wont hurt to try
i found a lot of different tutorials around the web from ag forums to youtube
the one thing they all had in common was heat
i know i heated my barrel with a heat gun it was hotter then me as i touched the top of my hand until i felt it was hotter than my hand not warm but slightly hot so it would stay warm longer if that makes sense
in the gta library there is a tutorial and use google or youtube both
i am betting getting it cleaned before and between coats helped thats what the directions said to do so i did it
and a lot of coats as said before a few wont do it go about 10 or more .dont stop until the desired results  or close to it are achieved
closed mouths dont get fed

PC77

When i cold blue i get a big pile of cotton balls ready as well as a pile of blue shop paper towels cut into 2 inch x 2 inch squares then i prep as directed at this point i put rubber gloves on and prep again with acetone based nail polish remover. I apply the bluing with cotton balls but only a few stokes then i get a new cotton ball. Then i buff the metal with the shop towels remove all the oxidation at this i don't rinse the metal with water i re apply bluing again and buff with paper towels. I do this over and over until i get the color i want with no shading. Use lots of cotton balls and paper towels if you want to use steel wool use   synthetic steel wool. Then i rinse with water and oil the metal. The best cold bluing that i have used is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue you can even have a small amount of oil on the metal and it won't affect the bluing.
pc

earlp8

Well today I went to my shop started to plane a board of oak(warped bad)threw it in the junk pile told the customer his board was junk,had a beer,eye caugut the metal lathe,stood at it,had a beer,decided what gun pat to make and went in my bin for materials,had a beer,a friend dropped by so I had a beer,went back looked at lathe,had a beer,chucked metal in lathe had a beer,another friend dropped by had beer, got ready to turn couldn't see vernier had a beer was ready to call it a day had a beer another friend stopped by had a beer decided to to come in the house and make spagettii sauce and have a beer.......Moral of the story........worked on my elbow  :)

chongman

Dang, that sounded like a lot of hard work....have a beer  ;D
Long days and pleasant nights to you...

cmj21973

Refinished a Palmgren angle vise.

breakfastchef

Quote from: cmj21973 on December 01, 2012, 11:46:03 PM
Refinished a Palmgren angle vise.

Vise looks excellent. I like refinishng stuff.
Larry

chongman

WOw, very nice! I've not see one of those in a long time  :-*
Long days and pleasant nights to you...

1377x

closed mouths dont get fed

PC77

Nice job on the vice. :-* I could have one of those yesterday.
pc

PC77

Showed my 2240 some love today. I made a new bolt handle, Brass safety and some plastic trigger shims. Got the trigger tightened up also polished it and filled the grips with duct seal.
pc




Motorhead

#284
More custom parts for the M-rod.
This time a fully adjustable Match style trigger to fit within OEM block.
All OEM internal trigger adjustments stayed intact.

Billet trigger group adjusts forward & back or sideways if wanted, & Shoe can rotate too   :-*
2 M-Rods .22 & .177 Reg
Air Arms TX200 MkIII .177
RWS / Diana-75 HV TO-1  .177 
Diana 100 SSP .177
FWB-124D .177 
HW 35  .177
RAW TM-1000 .177 .20 .22
WAR WarP .177 .25
Taipan Mutant .22
Sheridan Blue streak .20
BSA Scorpion .177 Reg
BAM 50 Custom .25 Reg
Hatsan AT44 .22 Reg
Shoebox / Alpha 90 4.5K & CF tanks