What work did you just do?

[Flex]

Great idea and great write-up! 

If you are looking to further reduce friction points, may I suggest drilling a 3/32 hole x 1/16" deep in the top of lobe on trigger, put a wee dab of grease or Moly paste on it and insert a 3/32" ball bearing (the one from your safety is perfect size...), and give it a try...me thinks you will like the results!

I did that mod on my 2240 trigger and it really helped (although I could have moved it rearward just a touch more):

The "bearing in the trigger lobe" mod is actually where I got the idea to do my mod at the other end of the sear! I also wanted to do a mod that had a minimal amount of "destructive" changes i.e. drilling a hole in the trigger arm. With the exception of smoothing the metal at both ends of the sear "no Crosman parts are harmed in any way". If I ever had to send the pistol in for warranty work, I wouldn't have to swap out any parts other than putting the original sear spring back.
Never-the-less, I am contemplating doing the mod to the trigger lobe too. I'm not so sure that moving the ball more to the rear is necessary! Where it is might be just right. Yes, I'm sure that there is a "sweet spot", keep in mind that too far forward, while reducing trigger pull may allow the trigger to "bottom out" before releasing the hammer. Placing the ball too far to the rear would decrease the mechanical advantage, increasing the force required but at the same time make it a "hair trigger". Both of those situations are theoretical and probably wouldn't occur in the ranges that the mod would actually make. I'm just sayin'. A bonus "side effect" of both of these mods is that they can compensate for those of us that tend to get over zealous with a file or Dremel tool! If you want to make the underside of the sear completely smooth at both ends a fair amount of metal will be removed and dimensional changes will be made. The correction at the trigger/sear interface is the most critical since it is a direct linkage. The spring/sear interface at the other end probably makes little if any difference.
I think that most of us agree that it is nice that Crosman has been kind enough to design their products with room for improvement. It's also nice that they have a ready supply of inexpensive replacement parts so that we are not punished too severely for our mistakes. Flex

[arkmaker †]

Thanks for the tips on the 22 mag shell dimple mod idea. 
Based on that inspiration, I just finished up a Custom Shop Trigger frame using a regular 22 LR shell. I will have to keep my eyes open for one next time I am at the range. I polished the shell dimple, sear contact points and trigger with diamond compound. I have a brass trigger and got a little to aggressive trying to get a couple of pits out and broke through the brass plating on the trigger blade side. Still looks pretty good though. I added teflon shims to the pins and a few small dabs of moly as well. Very smooth feeling now, but will need to mount to a tube and hammer to feel the real deal!

[Brent]

Nice twist/ improvement to you first trigger mod Flex!! 

That, with the ball bearing in the trigger, is about as good as it gets with the stock trigger setup!

Not sure if you guys that aren't familiar with his first mod noticed, but using the 22mag casing versus a 22lr casing... because of the longer length acts/ works like having a trigger stop (like you see on a CCS trigger frame). I used his mod on the 1377, and it works really well and I love it. Been meaning to add the ball bearing mod, and now with the shell casing to do also... that is an even better reason to get busy on it

[crossliner]

Change the silver BKL rings to black ones of the same brand..I am done w/ silver for now 




Finally mounted the Burris FastFire holo sight on my LW-barreled 2400kt..Also a torch..I am going to buy an Israeli-made CAA offset torch mount tomorrow..The mount on this one is a crappy but not so bad $8 something one that came free w/ my flashlight orders a long time ago...Also the torch is this one I do not like it because of its blue tail cap switch..It does not match well w/ the black and gold combo so I am going to replace it it's a temporary from my collection..

http://www.batteryjunction.com/itp-r01.html

[crossliner]

Took pics of yesterday's family event  Target is a 6mm Sharpie dot..Range 19 meters benchrested 5 shots each..

My son's. I expected him to do better than the wife but she surprised me on the 2nd round..We only had 2 as it started to rain..



The wife's..




Mine..





Pics should be rotated to the right..It should be in a horizontal position and not vertical. Best regards.

[quickster47 †]

Those few pieces of brass give your gun just the right touch of class without being gaudy.

Carl

[crossliner]

Thanks Mr. Q..It would look better w/ wood grips..Black plastic and brass does not sit w/ me well but my other 2 Crosmans are already in black and silver so I had to settle for this..Brass is a pain to maintain  Best regards.

[BigErn]

Those guns are so sweet CL 

[crossliner]

Those guns are so sweet CL 

Thank you Mr. BigE 

[Flex]

Nice twist/ improvement to you first trigger mod Flex!! 

That, with the ball bearing in the trigger, is about as good as it gets with the stock trigger setup!

Not sure if you guys that aren't familiar with his first mod noticed, but using the 22mag casing versus a 22lr casing... because of the longer length acts/ works like having a trigger stop (like you see on a CCS trigger frame). I used his mod on the 1377, and it works really well and I love it. Been meaning to add the ball bearing mod, and now with the shell casing to do also... that is an even better reason to get busy on it

Thanks Brent for the kind words AND the reminder that sometimes the info in the "quoted" portion of a reply/post is worth looking at . I think that the longer .22 mag case is the key to this mod since it allows for the lighter spring to direct nearly all of it's force against the sear. Otherwise it would curve out into the front or rear of the space in the grip frame. RE: the trigger stop feature (which is clearly a nice side effect of this mod), be aware that if both the shell case dome AND the trigger lobe ball are used, too much slack will be taken up and the shell case will have to be shortened some. Thanks to all that viewed and replied. Flex

[YSYEO]

First off, congratulations to all for 100 pages of showing us how you 'getter done'.

My 1300 Medalist II has been feeling poorly for awhile.   When I pumped, I could hear air leaking back past the pump cup.  It was only shooting around 280 fps.

So I took it apart and deburred and sanded the inside of the compression tube, and in place of the standard cup, which was pretty chewed up, I installed an O-Ring adapter from Mac1.




The gun put back together is below.   The blank drill set in the background is something I've had in the shop for a long time, and I find it very useful.   I use one a little smaller than the roll pin in a drill press to remove and reinstall the pump-arm roll pin.  I find that much easier than pounding it out.  When adjusting the headspace, I used one that just fits as a stand in for the roll pin until I got it adjusted just right.    She now shoots around 370 fps.

[mudduck48]

These are some of the guns that Crosman made when "they" cared about QC. Nice piece, I wish I had one like that. You sould be very proud of it. You have done a really good job.

[KevinP]

  nice looker ...

[targettgii]

Very nice YSYEO.

[bgmcgee]

 That's a real beauty, ysyeo    . As far as me I started refinishing the grips I got from Rick at airgrips.  They started getting some white spots and I never could get an answer from him on what he used to finish them so I did a lot of sanding and fitting.  Now it's many coats of tung oil . Hopefully they will be ok.