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What work did you just do?

Started by Fronzdan, October 27, 2012, 04:25:40 PM

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T191032

Converted Mr. Purple from a pistol into a 24" .177 Rifle with Target Sights.

Took the stock 1377 and converted it into a .22 Short Carbine ala 2289 Backpacker/Bug Out without the Quick-Detach feature.

Found that with the Mellon bolts I had, they do go into the barrels a little tough.  On the 1377 .22 it does not always cock the hammer unless I apply the safety (I swapped out the factory sear spring for one from ACE).  The new black trigger will not accept a trigger shoes I have, so I can't put one on & give it a "name", yet.

Unfortunately, I ran out of adjustment on Mr. Purple, so that means I need a different rear sight to get it sighted in, even for the short 6 yds I was working with.  Guess I'll have to look into the Williams FP-AG rear sight.
It ain't like it used to be but, eh, it's do.

ped

Quote from: Bazmati2020 on January 22, 2014, 03:44:25 PM
Totally agree :-* the 1322 was the last .22 I have, just haven't got on with them to be honest.

Always .177 when I was a youngster, coming back to Airguns after 30 years I was drawn into .22 (2 rifles and a pistol) but as soon as I also got .177 ones I knew it was calibre for me.  I can actually hit stuff at different ranges with .177  :D
looks well baz really like the 2300
not a fan of .177 really much prefer .20 .22 and .25 but i got a .177 walther barrel a few weeks ago at the right price so i'll be fitting it to a pistol shortly and the discovery i'm aquiring parts for at present will be .177 so might change my opinion
how long did it take you to seperate the pellets
ped
I am also active on https://ukchineseairgunforum.com

mudduck48

I had the same problem on my 1322 when I went to a 14 1/2" barrel. The MIM sight did not have enough adjustment. I went to the Williams WGRS-54 sight and changed out the peep for an open blade.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121512/williams-wgrs-54-guide-receiver-peep-sight-savage-anschutz-54-141-141m-153-153s-remington-541s-winchester-310-320-9422-most-22-caliber-dovetail-receivers-aluminum-black
I bought mine from Brownels, just showing Midway because of the picture.
We need to keep going and have fun doing it.

Bazmati2020

#2598
Quote from: ped on January 22, 2014, 05:16:57 PM
looks well baz really like the 2300
not a fan of .177 really much prefer .20 .22 and .25 but i got a .177 walther barrel a few weeks ago at the right price so i'll be fitting it to a pistol shortly and the discovery i'm aquiring parts for at present will be .177 so might change my opinion
how long did it take you to seperate the pellets
ped

Ped I saw you got one, I was gutted I missed it, you had already got before I saw it  :) then like busses another came along also at great price.
I find .177 far more forgiving, it may just be old habits though.

Pellets about 10 minutes, picking up by hand and having to blow fluff and hairs etc away  >:( but luckily it was in quite reasonable piles by type.
Wife came home and shouted where are you, discovered me in the act! Laying on floor picking up pellets and BB's lol, makes a change from catching me shooting  :-\

BDS

Baz old-boy, no shooting at "Chez-Baz" when mum is at home?

Say it ain't so  :D :-X
Brian

Bazmati2020

Afraid so.  I have to say I did fire off about 5 shots checking the power on crono after calibre switch and was expecting a telling off  :-[ but didn't!

Did have to wait until she took the dog out to try zeroing a bit though lol :D

K.O.

Received my .25 barrel yesterday there was no leade cut so last night I made a poor boys leade cutting tool.

I have a collection of yard/estate sale drill bits and among them I had an F bit.

I chucked it up and carefully hit it with the side of a cutting disk in my die grinder.

I marked it  about 1/4 inch past the port and tapered it from .248 to .252 over that distance.

This morning I opened the .150 port to .170.

I  used a 1/4 drill bit first just to the depth of the port this took it down to very close to the depth of the grooves but they still showed,

I then hit it with my makeshift leade tool and lands begin to show right about the port.

I then polished with wet dry and a dowel.

I used a cone shaped grinding bit in a dremel  to chamfer slightly.

I think it accually did the job very well but am still some parts away from knowing from testing,  I think my pellets will be here today so will at least

be able to check  the fit.

I feel pretty confident  about it though...

I need to mill the flat for the transfer port but have time still as the valve parts are not here yet, and once they get here they have to go to Ca. and

then back.

My crossed fingers are cramping :-[

1322XLT(2100/13XX hybyid)750 fps @ 16 pumps w/CPHP 14.3g

MK1322(2240/13XX/MK177 hybrid) 805 fps at @ 22 pumps w/14.3g CPHP

about 5 more 13xxs
Two Daisy 953(# 31x Jan. 1985) & (Sept 2004)
2100b (with old style piston)
.25 Mrod (50fpe tune)
.177 BSA Buccaneer (on the way)

pump-n-dump

Made a new probe with a file and my drill clamped in a vise. It has an extended tip which I put a drop of solder on. This helps position the pellet more squarely into the rifling better than just the small diameter tip did but still is small enough for improved air flow.

ettolo


ettolo

New oak (not sure... the Italian is 'rovere') grips ready to be 'anatomically' worked.
Suggestions on "how to" welcomed: I'm scared about loosing the work I've done 'til now


pump-n-dump

#2605
Quote from: ettolo on January 22, 2014, 10:16:16 PM
New oak (not sure... the Italian is 'rovere') grips ready to be 'anatomically' worked.
Suggestions on "how to" welcomed: I'm scared about loosing the work I've done 'til now


Put a 1/2" layer of modeling clay on them then squeeze a preferred grip into them. Once satisfied, remove the clay from the areas that are in the most need of wood removal and shade the area on the wood with a pencil, darker shading = greater depth. After all areas are marked in this manner, remove all clay and start removing wood with a sanding drum on a rotary tool checking regularly. Repeat...

BDS

Quote from: pump-n-dump on January 22, 2014, 09:31:35 PM
Made a new probe with a file and my drill clamped in a vise. It has an extended tip which I put a drop of solder on. This helps position the pellet more squarely into the rifling better than just the small diameter tip did but still is small enough for improved air flow.

Nice work on that probe, let's see how long your solder holds up? It should be slightly harder than most pellet alloys that it's pushing (more tin and antimony).
Brian

pump-n-dump

#2607
Quote from: BDS on January 22, 2014, 10:46:49 PM
Nice work on that probe, let's see how long your solder holds up? It should be slightly harder than most pellet alloys that it's pushing (more tin and antimony).
Brian, that's my hope. That and there isn't much resistance to cause wear. I'll post an update after it has some miles on it.

1377x

Quote from: droid on January 21, 2014, 02:40:42 PM
Well as you know mate I got my breech from the States thanks to ED.

Patience is a virtue (One I haven't got)
they do come up from time to time and at a premium. The breech droid got was listed just a few minutes when stumbled across it. Almost got it for myself but figured droid would get more out of it than i would
Glad it got you where you wanted go droid
closed mouths dont get fed

DBOdude

in a attempt to smooth the cocking action and quiet the hammer/hammer spring noise when dry firing i polished the hammer and used vaseline to lube them . it was a little bit smoother , MUCH quieter when dry firing .... but held air at 9 or more pumps  :( . disassembled it , cleaned off the vaseline , reassembled using secret sauce and it's back to normal  :-* . i think a lube thicker than oil but much thinner than vaseline might do what i want ..... any suggestions ?
Everything isn't for Everybody ......