I'm so damn happy I could just ..... (pics)

[1377x]

wow is that a .22 magnum casing for the trigger spring guide

[Tater]

wow is that a .22 magnum casing for the trigger spring guide

Yes, it's 1 1/16".
OK, I loosened the screws a bit and it seems to work fine except the trigger doesn't "reset" until you cock it. Otherwise, it just stays depressed.

[PC77]

Tater leave the metal washer out and just use the plastic washers. Loosen the front cover screw just until the trigger works freely. Polish the 22 mag case. You need to hold both ends of the trigger spring and twist it a little to open the spring a little so it will side freely on the 22mag case.
pc

[Tater]

Tater leave the metal washer out and just use the plastic washers. Loosen the front cover screw just until the trigger works freely. Polish the 22 mag case. You need to hold both ends of the trigger spring and twist it a little to open the spring a little so it will side freely on the 22mag case.
pc

It's back together now with 4 plastic washers (one on each side of trigger and sear). The spring slides freely on the .22 mag case except for the rim.

[Tater]

Yes!!! It seems to work fine now and is much smoother. I might have rubbed some of the white lithium off of the contact points so I might have to redo that but it will require extensive testing tomorrow.     

I'd like to REALLY thank PC77 and Ed for help with parts and answering my flood of PM's.   

[PC77]

Tater if you want to be really slick drill a small devit on the sear were it meets the trigger and JB weld one of those extra safety balls i sent you.  Congrats on the trigger work you done good.
pc

[Tater]

Tater if you want to be really slick drill a small devit on the sear were it meets the trigger and JB weld one of those extra safety balls i sent you.  Congrats on the trigger work you done good.
pc

  That might be pushing it at my skill level.     I had one &#^%*# of a time getting the safety spring and ball back in. I will have nightmares about that steel ball tonight.

[1377x]

  That might be pushing it at my skill level.     I had one &#^%*# of a time getting the safety spring and ball back in. I will have nightmares about that steel ball tonight.

hey at least your honest

[Tater]

Too honest maybe.   

[storsy]

Tater,
I find it much easier to remove the whole trigger assembly first, it removes the nightmare of losing the safety ball and spring (as it is no longer under pressure), and re-assembly is a breeze.
Far easier in the long run mate.

[Tater]

Good call Storsy. I don't know how to do that but I'll look it up next time.

[JEBert]

Good call Storsy. I don't know how to do that but I'll look it up next time.

Tater,
Storsy is right.  Take the trigger frame off of the main tube by removing the front and rear trigger frame screws.  Keep the trigger frame upright and you will see the safety spring sticking up out of the trigger frame.  Pull it out and turn the frame over while holding your hand under the slot that you pulled the spring out of.  If the safety ball doesn't fall out into your hand, there is a dab of lube holding it in place.  Now there is no pressure on the ball to spring it across the room when you take the cover off.  When you finish your trigger work, put the cover back on and drop the ball and spring back into place before installing the frame back onto the tube.  If you put a dab of grease on the ball and always take the frame off of the tube BEFORE taking the cover off and put the cover back on BEFORE installing the frame back onto the tube, you will never have to look for that ball and/or spring again.
About your trigger, when you are fitting the washers, leave the spring washer out and put the trigger, trigger pivot pin and washers in the frame WITH NOTHING ELSE in there.  Tighten the cover down with all of the screws and see if the trigger will flop forwards and backwards just by tilting the frame back and forth.  You will probably need to sand one or both washers down a little at a time until the trigger still has no sideways play but will swing through its arc freely.  Do the same for your sear, sear pivot pin, and washers AGAIN, WITH NOTHING ELSE IN THE FRAME and when you get it back together, it will reset cleanly even with the lightest of sear springs.  Good luck with it.
Cheers,

[RC1947]

There was a metal washer already under the trigger pivot pin but I replaced it with a nylon on each side so I will change that. The metal washer that was there was not flat at all and bent like a Pringle.

Yup, that curved washer provides tension without binding.  There needs to be a little play in the trigger and sear to work properly. RC

[Tater]

Thanks JEBert and RC. I already have it back together with ll plastic washer. It seems fine, but I haven't tested it with the red dot on at targets. If it doesn't seem right I'll swap in the metal washer.
I ended up crazy glueing the ball to the the safety spring. I'm putting felyt on the pump arm too.

[Sir William]

Tater:
Which model BSA Red Dot are you using.  I want one.
Thanks