P-rod rough frame

josey88 · November 17, 2012, 08:21:34 PM

I started examining in detail the P-rod frame/asembly that will go into my 2400KT when it arrives in a week or so and everything is fine , except for the very rough part of the frame at front of the grips ... this is I think a residue from the cast .
I am begining to think that I will have to disassemble the whole thing to sand and polish that part of the frame and then paint it again ... what a PITA this is
I read somewhere that the custom shop sands and finishes the frames of the ordered guns much better , so if the frames are both the same , I will put the p-rod trigger assembly on the 2400KT frame if the frame comes better finished . Looking at my 1377`s , I think they are exactly the same , except that the p-rod assembly uses a third pin , which is not used but ready to install on the 1377 /2400kt frames. Once again , what a PITA just to do things right

josey88 · November 17, 2012, 08:41:13 PM

Well, I guess not ... the frames are the same but the 2400KT lacks the travel screw for the trigger and also another hole behind to make adjustments to the Sear , so ... no swapping of frames and the only route left is disassembling and sanding and painting the P-rod frame ... my luck is shinning brightly
I always use Duplicolor low gloss black , 500 degrees engine paint for my AK builts , so I will use the same for the frame . Maybe Crosman uses the same paint for their frames because it looks exactly like it
Of course, I can always leave it the way it came , but ... nahh... I`ll fix it

chongman · November 17, 2012, 08:51:43 PM

The Custom Shop frames appear (to me) just pick of the litter frames. Both of the Custom Shop 22xx frames I have came with minimal casting flash and are not sanded smooth. They do have the trigger travel adjusting screw, as do the 2300T/S.

If you have a 2400KT straight out of the box it should have the travel screw, if not? You got skint

josey88 · November 17, 2012, 09:01:17 PM

Quote from: chongman on November 17, 2012, 08:51:43 PM
The Custom Shop frames appear (to me) just pick of the litter frames. Both of the Custom Shop 22xx frames I have came with minimal casting flash and are not sanded smooth. They do have the trigger travel adjusting screw, as do the 2300T/S.

If you have a 2400KT straight out of the box it should have the travel screw, if not? You got skint

You are right... mi bad . I was just comparing it to the 1377 frame that doesn`t have that travel screw . but most likely the 2400kt would not have the hole behind that travel screw (for adjusting the Sear`s hex key screws) so I guess that since I have gone to the trouble of upgrading the 2400kt , may as well give it the finish it deserves .
The hex key screws on the P-rd trigger are all loctited , so unless I tamper with the adjusting directly , they would not loose the setting from factory , so there would not be a problem handling it, carefully.

1377x · November 19, 2012, 01:47:07 AM

the older ccs guns had nicely refinished frames with cast marks removed, when that changed not sure
i just had my p-rod frame repainted but forgot to remove the casting mark.as long as the paint holds it will remain that way

josey88 · November 19, 2012, 02:59:48 AM

Well, mine has very rough marks from the casting and some parts are not even painted ... around the trigger that will be seen is pretty bad . So, what I am going to do is :
diasssembly of the trigger completely (no problem)
strip the paint completely , leaving it on the naked pot metal , like I did with the 1377 .
but instead of polishing it , I will sand off all the imperfections with 400 sand paper and then after cleaning , spray it with Duplicolor black engine paint 500 degrees resistent (an old trick from AK building) low gloss . The paint need the light scratches from the 400 sanding to adhere well . After it dries , I will spray a coat of transparent Helmsman spar urethane , clear satin . That will seal the paint and protect it . It would be beautiful and nice to the touch .

1377x · November 19, 2012, 03:46:16 AM

Quote from: josey88 on November 19, 2012, 02:59:48 AM
Well, mine has very rough marks from the casting and some parts are not even painted ... around the trigger that will be seen is pretty bad . So, what I am going to do is :
diasssembly of the trigger completely (no problem)
strip the paint completely , leaving it on the naked pot metal , like I did with the 1377 .
but instead of polishing it , I will sand off all the imperfections with 400 sand paper and then after cleaning , spray it with Duplicolor black engine paint 500 degrees resistent (an old trick from AK building) low gloss . The paint need the light scratches from the 400 sanding to adhere well . After it dries , I will spray a coat of transparent Helmsman spar urethane , clear satin . That will seal the paint and protect it . It would be beautiful and nice to the touch .

have you ever warmed up the metal before painting?
im just wondering if that would make the paint stick better because the pores in the metal will open some

josey88 · November 19, 2012, 04:03:51 AM

You make sure that the metal is not cold ... normal temp , then when it is dry you put on the oven with only 225 degress and just for 25 minutes, hanging . After that, the whole thingis ready . Sometimes , if there is a particular part that it is difficult, I hang it on top of the stove while on until is warm a little bit. I did that with some mags for my VZ-58 and they took the paint perfectly .

1377x · November 19, 2012, 05:42:21 AM

cool!
i have to find somewhere to use a oven,it will not happen in the kitchen oven at home
maybe i'll go get a toster oven from a second hand store for drying small parts

josey88 · November 19, 2012, 06:26:44 AM

Quote from: 1377x on November 19, 2012, 05:42:21 AM
cool!
i have to find somewhere to use a oven,it will not happen in the kitchen oven at home
maybe i'll go get a toster oven from a second hand store for drying small parts

Why not ? I use the oven at home . Because the paint is already dry for at least few hours and you would hang the part on a wire inside the oven so it doesn`t touch anything , there is very little odor , if any at all .
I already stripped the frame and sanded, cleaned and painted it with the engine paint . Now is hanging in the garage , drying and tomorrow will be dry completely so here comes the Oven step . After the Oven , I will spray the urethane , wait 24 hours to dry (no oven this time) and that is it .

1377x · November 19, 2012, 07:56:58 AM

oh its a call beyond my control the oven is off limits like shooting in the house is now

the oven is brand new i should have saved the old oven for this reason
the toster ovens i was looking at not long ago are a decent size.i just need to get one of those digital thermometers
i had one like this but it got stolen along with my kill-a-watt.then i check and make sure the used oven is doing what it is supposed to
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html

crossliner · November 19, 2012, 10:53:23 AM

Quote from: josey88 on November 19, 2012, 02:59:48 AM
Well, mine has very rough marks from the casting and some parts are not even painted ... around the trigger that will be seen is pretty bad . So, what I am going to do is :
diasssembly of the trigger completely (no problem)
strip the paint completely , leaving it on the naked pot metal , like I did with the 1377 .
but instead of polishing it , I will sand off all the imperfections with 400 sand paper and then after cleaning , spray it with Duplicolor black engine paint 500 degrees resistent (an old trick from AK building) low gloss . The paint need the light scratches from the 400 sanding to adhere well . After it dries , I will spray a coat of transparent Helmsman spar urethane , clear satin . That will seal the paint and protect it . It would be beautiful and nice to the touch .

Hi Mr. Josey..Am I right to assume that hi temp paint is enamel and would it not curl up if you spray coat it w/ clear urethane? I had my frames airbrushed by a pro but as nice as they look they are not impact resistant. A small bump would break the paint causing it to chip off. Best regards.

josey88 · November 19, 2012, 04:26:18 PM

Well, this urethane is for wood . It is the most resistent thing I have ever seen ... all weather , outside and inside, really tough stuff, and it is , since is made for exterior/interior protection of wood , and wood contracts and expands , kind of flexible . I have done a couple of buttstocks and they look just like the first day , although I am careful handling my guns and I care about their appearance . I do not trow my guns around . I also did some mags . This thing is very , very tough . It is mostly an exterior all weather protective lacquer . I cannot attest if it would survive a drop from 6 feets up in the air (I think that the gun would not survive that , as well) but for the normal handling , with a normal care , it works .
It will seal and protect the paint from the wear and tear from the use . It comes in 3 flavors : clear satin , semi-gloss and high gloss . I use clear satin and when dry , you cannot tell it has been coated with .
It would not curl up . I have sprayed the urethane 1 hour after painting a part and it is fine , but usually I wait until the paint is completely dry ... 8 to 10 hours .

chongman · November 19, 2012, 04:46:19 PM

So where's the pictures

As they say, no pics it didn't happen

josey88 · November 19, 2012, 05:26:45 PM

I have not finished it . I am putting it on the Oven for the paint final drying . This afternoon I will spray the urethane coat and tomorrow it will be done . I will put pics of it finished .
I forgot to ad that I have also used the urethane (the same clear satin, I don`t like shiny bling guns) on my PSL receiver cover and on the metal buttstock , and of course , in a few rifles wood stocks .