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Finally finished my modded valve.

Started by onebaddj, November 19, 2012, 05:04:15 AM

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onebaddj

It started out as a stock 2250 valve. List of mods are enlarged the inlet, enlarged the inside of the valve, angled the transfer port and drilled out to 3/16. Cut off the peircing needle and thinned down the spring guide so i could use a stock hammer spri.g in the valve. And replaced both seals in the valve with the high pressure gaskets. Threw it in the 2400 with 18 in barrel and was getting 350's again! Wtf. So i threw in a heavier hammer sprimg and pjmped it up to 2000 psi and she fired the 15.9 at 797! Hell yeah thats what i was looking for. The shot fell off quickly so i didnt do alot of testi.g and with the heavy hammer spri.g it was killing my finger. I just needed to get all the springs in the right places. I think i could go faster but would hate to cock it so whats the point really.with the stock valve shes in the 15 fpe range. And pretty accurate. That a good gun for me. With all the mods was getting just under 23 fpe. I think ill stick with thee 15 fpe  22xx and start ringing out for accuracy. Will probably just order a boss valve for it ive put a ton of time into my valve and cant get it just right. Have learned a ton about valves though.
i wasnt born with enough middle fingers. Marolyn manson.

1377x

sounds good!!!
if i was you i would get a rear cocking hammer assembly if planning on using a heavy hammer spring
if you are using a heavy hammer spring you dont have to worry about bending the bolt handle or breaking it.unless you are using a 2-stage trigger cant really do anything about the heavier trigger pull though
closed mouths dont get fed

tinker

Looks like a build well done :-*  Have you tried a Disco spring yet?  It maybe a bit more tuning is all that is needed. 
  I ended up polishing my hammer to reduce the hammer drag as much as possible and lubing it with a never seize type grease very lightly and the cocking effort went way down.  I also made a new hammer pin using 1/8" drill rod and inserting it into the hammer until it stopped and stayed straight up w/out any of the wobble.  Made the pin a little longer for more contact on the rear of the bolt. That helped reduce the cocking effort too.  Forgot about all these mods since I had done them a while ago with my Disco that was very hard to cock using a heavy hammer spring. 
(Tinker)
If it's not broken then modify it!

onebaddj

Havent tried a disco spring yet. Inside the valve itself i have used the stock spring, a 1377 valve spring and the valev would not seal, and a stock hammer spring from my 2400 that i cut 2 different lengths for more preload. So far all have had about the same results. Great high end velocity but require heavy hammer spring which sucks to cock. And with all the tearing apart and rebuilding i buggered up the seal on my stock valve. Now i to strip it down again to fix that. I think ill order the boss valve and be done with it.
i wasnt born with enough middle fingers. Marolyn manson.

1377x

i have some heavy hammer springs that are not to bad to cock
they are made from .041 music wire and they are considered the heavy hammer spring for the disco when filling to 2400psi
i can personally vouch for these springs they are nice for that purpose
and they dont cost $10 about half of that shipped
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Crosshairs

Sounds like you did a good job on your valve I need to try one I have modes the 13xx valves but not the 22xx valves. Thanks for posting
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