My custom shop .22 2300KT just arrived. Looks nice, heavier than I thought, seems well manufactured. Anything to check before pop my first cartridge and start putting pellets through it?
Custom 2300KT x1 $123.88
Base: Base Assembly x1
Breech: Long Steel Breech x1
Barrel: 10.1" Crosman Barrel (.22 caliber) x1
Muzzle: Blade Sight x1
Grips: Standard Plastic Grip x1
Optics: LPA Mim Rear Sight x1
Trigger_shoe: Silver Trigger Shoe x1
I plan to order a 6.4" TKO to quiet it down, then eventually a red dot sight. How do I remove the front sight? I don't see a set screw
Yup.. check/clean the bore, check and adjust your trigger spring for the tension you want. A drop of Pellgunoil on the bolt o-ring and on the tip of your first co2 cart (and about every 3rd or 4th cart therafter).
Use a wooden dowel to tap your front sight off when you are ready to put the TKO on.
Otherwise, go shoot.
Congrats ! Brian pretty much got it. Just shoot the hell out of it and enjoy shooting it. Do a shot count, shoot from a bag from 5 and 10 meters check your grouping and do a chrony test before you make any changes write all info down for future comparison. If you take it apart take pictures as you go.
Mike
Quote from: BDS on June 12, 2013, 08:24:13 PM
Yup.. check/clean the bore, check and adjust your trigger spring for the tension you want. A drop of Pellgunoil on the bolt o-ring and on the tip of your first co2 cart (and about every 3rd or 4th cart therafter).
Use a wooden dowel to tap your front sight off when you are ready to put the TKO on.
Otherwise, go shoot.
;D ;D :D ... in all of the reality space on earth .... really, does anybody do this ... :D .. put the co2 in and shoot it, clean it tomorrow .... !!!
Trigger sucks bad! :-X
Will I hear a hiss when the cartridge is punctured? I just put the first one in and got nothing when I screwed the knob down finger tight. I then put a screwdriver in the slot and tightened it a little more.
Off to find the trigger adjustment guide...
Don't use a screwdriver when you pull the trigger and the hammer strikes the valve stem is how the Co2 is pierced.
Mike
It should have the adjustable trigger, take one of the grip covers off. Beyond that, you can stone/polish the contact surfaces of the trigger and sear.
I adjusted the spring all the way down to the lowest setting, then polished the trigger/sear contact point and put a wee bit of moly paste on the contact and pivot points. It was lighter but still feels pretty rough. I don't see where the roughness is coming from ???
Carefully polish the sear where it makes contact with the hammer. Don't worry, if you still don't like it, for $40 and a little JB Weld you can do the 1701 trigger frame upgrade for a vastly superior trigger.
Quote from: Fronzdan on June 13, 2013, 04:19:27 AM
Carefully polish the sear where it makes contact with the hammer. Don't worry, if you still don't like it, for $40 and a little JB Weld you can do the 1701 trigger frame upgrade for a vastly superior trigger.
Any closeup pics you know of that detail exactly how the sear contacts the hammer? I see the end tat goes up into the hammer area but just not sure if it is the top, side, both...? Also wondering if I do this if a little moly on the contact point is advisable too?
My sear looks machine cut and/or has less-than-smooth sections along the thin edge of it if you look very closely. Seems a weird way to make it give that is the contact surface. Should I be polishing that off such that it is a single smooth surface? Both my Disco and ths thing look the same way. I polished what was there but did not remove any material to get rid of the cut like surface.
(http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/blog/photos/installationpix013.jpg)See if that helps.
Yeah they stamp those parts and you often get really rough edges. The surface you want to polish is what faces the rear of the gun. That is what rests against the hammer. When you pull the trigger that slides down and releases it. If its really rough it can add to the gritty feel. DOnt go crazy removing a lot of material, but you should be able to smooth it completely out to a mirror like shine. I use a whet stone and different grit paper.
When the hammer is cocked back, the sear spring pushes the sear up to lock the hammer into position. The grittiness you are feeling is probably the sear being slowly pushed off the front of the hammer during the trigger pull. This trigger system design can be tweaked, but will never feel as smooth as a drop sear design (i.e. 1701P grip & trigger group). Polishing the front bevel of the hammer may help smooth things out. Sorry for the crude diagram, but I do not have a spare sear laying around.
Who'd you get to draw that picture? Michael J. Fox???
Quote from: agninja on June 14, 2013, 09:05:36 PM
Who'd you get to draw that picture? Michael J. Fox???
I cut and pasted chongman's last ECG!
Quote from: breakfastchef on June 14, 2013, 10:05:33 PM
I cut and pasted chongman's last ECG!
If my EKG looked like that.... well, I'd not be at home ;D
Quote from: agninja on June 14, 2013, 09:05:36 PM
Who'd you get to draw that picture? Michael J. Fox???
Quote from: breakfastchef on June 14, 2013, 10:05:33 PM
I cut and pasted chongman's last ECG!
You guys got me cracking up over here. :)
Quote from: chongman on June 15, 2013, 12:49:32 AM
If my EKG looked like that.... well, I'd not be at home ;D
;D ;D
Thanks guys, very helpful posts.
I don't have any stones but have a dremel with a polishing wheel. It polishes things up but doesn't remove much material, probably none at all. I'll give it a try.
I *do* have a large fine arkansas stone for sharpening a knife. Do you think I could hold the sear and lightly clean up ay irregularity with that?
Is it advisable to put a little bit of moly on that sear/hammer contact surface?
Arkansas stone is one way to do it. Try to hold it very steady and don't change any angles.
Polish it afterwards with the Dremel buffing wheel.
Cheers,
I just got done...I used some 1000 sandpaper to remove the uneven manufacturing marks where the sear would touch the hammer, then polished it with a dremel polishing wheel and some polishing compound. Cleaned that off and it looked near mirror smooth. Then used a clean polishing wheel with some moly paste on it and did what I thought folks mean when they say they burnish in the moly...I just polished it with the moly paste and hope some went deeper into the pores ???. Then put the tiniest micro dab of extra moly on it and put it back together. Felt better so I must have done something right!
That should be baby butt smooth now ;D I'm sure it is a big improvement.
Now that it is smoother, you can compress your sear spring some and make it a lighter pull. Better yet would be to replace it with a lighter spring. Be sure to test it afterwards to make sure that you cannot make it fire by bumping it around vigorously with the safety off.
Also, you can add a fired .22lr case upside-down in the top of the spring so it will ride smoother on the bottom of the sear.
Cheers,
Shot it some - trigger much lighter and no roughness, but a mile of creep. Guess I'll worry about some trigger mod to help with that down the road.
Shot count seems low - really not sure what to expect. What should I get per standard cartridge - and when do you know when it is dropping off? When you start missing? :P
My 2300KT (in .22 cal) started dropping off around 40 shots. My first indication was the drop of point-of-impact. After I got used to it, I would not shoot a target for a score after about 38 shots unless I didn't mind the risk of screwing up that target. From what I read here, that is about average. If you only shoot paper, you can install a valve spacer and get into the70's. If you want more power, you can do some valve and transfer port mods if you don't mind the drop in the shot count.