I'm on my third or fourth CO2 cartridge in a new 2300KT. At times it sounds a little weak although hard to tell - my ear is not fully tuned in to it yet. But yesterday I was thinking it seemed to be out of power quicker - maybe around the 20 shot count range and I thought it was supposed to get more. I went to remove the cartridge and it hissed and released CO2 for about 15 seconds in a slow, uneven way that makes me think I am not getting a good pierce of the cap. Now the new cartridge is acting the same way. Seems weak.
Anything to check or do? I'm using new cartridges from PA in the 40 pack. I insert and tighten finger firm tight, then do the cock and pull trigger to start. ???
Have you done any mods to the trigger assembly? Are you cocking the gun and leaving the bolt in the open position when loading a cart? Did you check for debris in the front part of the valve? Could be a bunch of different things..
Yes, I lightened the trigger significantly by using the spring adjuster to turn it all the way down to get a decent trigger pull...
I do not cock before loading...I leave it uncocked from the last shot, load the new cartridge, then cock and fire to pierce.
Pull the bolt back (cock the gun) before you load the cartridge in, drop the cart in and tighten the co2 cap down, push the bolt back in and shoot to pierce the cart.. Try that and see if the leak stops.
*Also, have you messed with the trigger over travel screw any? Could also be causing you a few problems depending on where you have it set at.
I will try that - is this way the standard way am I have been doing it wrong?
James has a very good suggestion. If the over-travel screw is set in too far, it can cause sear drag on the hammer which, in turn, can slow or inhibit motion of the hammer. The hammer can not hit the valve stem with the required amount of force to fully puncture the CO2 cartridge.
We have the same problem on my LW-barreled 2400kt..I ordered another Mr. 007 C02 Tri Wing cap in brass because the OEM Crosman cap is not that easy to finger-tighten..If I use the ss Tri Wing the powerlet hole becomes more pronounced see pics..Btw the rear screws on mine are in no way binding the hammer spring I double-checked it..You can see that the powerlet hole on the right side is too small only the sharp portion of the smallest sewing needle will go in I tested it. Yes it's that small so it's almost not pierced..
(http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww96/DARKHORSE1967/IMG_0562_zpsc6adb3eb.jpg)
The Mr. 007 Tri Wing shaft is also a bit longer as you can see..
(http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww96/DARKHORSE1967/IMG_0560_zps22531ca9.jpg)
I suspect your gun is not leaking it's just that the hole is too small it causes misfires..At least this has been my experience..What I do is sand the powerlet seal to make it thinner and easier to pierce...And use the Tri Wing cap for a more positive tightening..At 1st I thought the hammer was not strong enough so I put a washer behind it to make it more tense..Same "too small" holes result..My valve is secure too you should also check that because sometimes they are loose as there is only the small screw and the transfer port securing it.
Check the trigger stop screw the one under the trigger frame. It might be adjusted in causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down and not get a good strike.
Quote from: wahoowad on June 22, 2013, 03:01:27 PM
I will try that - is this way the standard way am I have been doing it wrong?
I have always done mine with pulling the handle back before inserting the cart. Not sure if it is the correct way but it just makes more sense to me as I feel it gets a tighter seal.
Quote from: bgmcgee on June 22, 2013, 04:17:00 PM
Check the trigger stop screw the one under the trigger frame. It might be adjusted in causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down and not get a good strike.
I haven't changed the location of the trigger stop screw - set wherever crosman set it. How do I "check" it? I just looked and it doesn't protrude very far. I see no threads extending into the trigger guard area, just some brass covered tit. When cocked I'd say there is a good 1/8" gap.
[quote My valve is secure too you should also check that [/quote]
How do I do this? ???
This should not be a problem with a new gun. I would certainly contact Crosman about repair/replacement. Most of the suggestions above hint at problems with the hammer not traveling down the tube properly.
While you are fiddling, back off the rear breech screw a couple of turns. Perhaps it is a little too long and is hanging up in the hammer spring.
1/8" when cocked seems normal. Does the trigger contact that brass tit when fired?. Take an allen wrench of the proper size and back it out a little. Maybe the work you did on the trigger parts have now effected how much your trigger needs to be pulled back.
Quote from: bgmcgee on June 22, 2013, 05:13:43 PM
Does the trigger contact that brass tit...
I know this was unintentional, but did make me snicker.
I just shot another cartridge and made sure to cock the gun first. I had a good hole this time. I also used some Pellgun oil on the tip of the cartridge which I had not done yet for the first 4 or 5 cartridges. I'll keep an eye on this and followup on these ideas if I continue to have issues. I appreciate all the help!
Some of the ideas mentioned, especially about possible hammer drag, might be worth considering further depending upon your opinions on this shot string I just chronied and in this post :) http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,11737.0.html (http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php/topic,11737.0.html)
Quote from: breakfastchef on June 22, 2013, 05:43:19 PM
I know this was unintentional, but did make me snicker.
;D ;D @ Larry.. Glad we could help you through your problem Wahoo.. :-*
Does the trigger contact that brass tit...
I know this was unintentional, but did make me snicker.
I'm here to help in any way I can ;D
Quote from: wahoowad on June 22, 2013, 04:33:38 PM
I haven't changed the location of the trigger stop screw - set wherever crosman set it. How do I "check" it? I just looked and it doesn't protrude very far. I see no threads extending into the trigger guard area, just some brass covered tit. When cocked I'd say there is a good 1/8" gap.
[quote My valve is secure too you should also check that
How do I do this? ???
Well for you to check it you must remove the trigger frame..You will see that short Phillip screw securing the valve..When I checked mine it was loose and the valve would move..Some members secure it w/ extra screws termed as "pinning the valve"..It makes sense if you intend to increase its power or even if not..The Benjamin Disco is valve is rigged that way you can see extra screws on the sides of the tube as well as under it.
Also you need to check the hammer guide pin..There is a possibility that the hammer drag can be traced there if ever there is..I polished mine as well as the tube groove ( the cut where the hammer guide pin moves back and forth ) and made sure the tube, breech, trigger frame etc were aligned..Regards.