I've done small (still bigger than our entire guns) to medium automotive parts for awhile. I got excellent results with the black crinkle, flat black and clear coats over polished parts. Those three colors are all I ever needed for automotive. I use Eastwood powders only, by the way. The Harbor freight or Craftsman colors are nowhere near good enough for me.
With my guitar building (that I only do from about now until it gets hot again), I am wanting to do much much smaller parts. This new (to me) airgun hobby is also telling me the same thing. With that in mind, I've just ordered myself a smaller oven for doing much smaller parts. It will be 120 volt and won't cost as much to cure these smaller parts.
I'll be doing some powder coating this fall and winter for myself... not every day or even every week, but when I have several parts that I want to do of a color, then I'll do a batch.
I'll be getting some new colors, too. For sure satin black, gloss black and black chrome. Some red, some chrome and more of the 2nd stage clear that make the chrome pop, also.
Barrels, tubes, caps, trigger frames, etc. would be no problem. If it will take an electrostatic charge (groundable metal) and can be heated up to 400 F for about 20-30 minutes for cure, then it can be done.
Drop me a line if you have anything you want powder coated, let me know what it is (and what color). Then when I'm getting ready to put that hat on for a few days, I'll let you know ahead of time.
You've never tried any of the other powder suppliers. ie Colombia coating, Pendry Powder, Powder 365, Powder by the Pound, etc. They all have a very large color selection including ceramics & other things.
Quote from: tinker on October 29, 2012, 06:33:07 AM
You've never tried any of the other powder suppliers. ie Colombia coating, Pendry Powder, Powder 365, Powder by the Pound, etc. They all have a very large color selection including ceramics & other things.
You are incorrect. I have used some others, but I have settled on Eastwood for MY needs (thus far). It is a fine product at a reasonable price and gives me good results. If I ever need something that they don't have, then I will go looking and cross my fingers again.
I also tried some of the cheaper HF (what you see on Ebay for $4.99 or so) and Craftsman once, too and they are not as good. I nearly had to crucible them to get the lumps out.
I know there are others, but when I find a good product, I stick to it (no pun intended). Eastwood is certainly reputable and has been in the game a very long time. Availability and consistency mean something to me. There might be a PowdercoatRus, too but I don't have any inclination to even attempt to try them all.
When I was having a car painted custom some 16 years ago, my brother just went on and on about how I was "messing up" if I didn't go with House of Kolors. Well, let me tell you I went with Dupont base coat / clear coat with a smidge of UV pearl in the clear over the BMW Alpine White base and it is exactly what I wanted. And that garaged 31 year old completely restored car STILL has that great paint job on it.
In the end: So many brands, so little time. ;)
know pic really does not do any justice to paint jobs but do you have any pics of the work you have done?
Quote from: 1377x on October 29, 2012, 09:20:18 AM
know pic really does not do any justice to paint jobs but do you have any pics of the work you have done?
Remember I only have done automotive parts done thus far. BMW wheels are gone (car sold). I'll post a pic of a radiator shroud top done in crinkle black... and the front bumper lower air dam (a custom piece powder coated in gloss black) later today. The heat shields (from the old cat location back) are powder coated (a race ported rotary 13B that has exhaust gases that reaches temps of 1,700° -2,000°F at the exhaust manifold at full throttle ), but they are under the car that is only inches off the ground. I can't even get my arm under there and no lift, you know. The dash frame was powder coated but it is surrounded by (guess what?) dash. ;D
When the new small oven gets here, the first thing I'm gonna do is coat an aluminum Mellon PA black, then I got some reflective chrome to do, and some clear over polished steel. I gotta strange feelin' you will see all of that when it's done. ;)
metal is metal shape doesnt matter.if you have pics of the work you have done great, if not then the next time you are doing some work take a couple pics :-*
I would be very interested in getting a grip frame powder coated in a satin black :)
Quote from: chongman on October 29, 2012, 01:17:04 PM
I would be very interested in getting a grip frame powder coated in a satin black :)
Me, too. :) I've got two that need the casting lines smoothed out and then they, too will get the powder. As I said below, I'll holler when I'm ready to schedule some batches.
Yeah same here...I'd like a grip frame done in chrome.
Quote from: Fronzdan on October 29, 2012, 06:09:05 PM
Yeah same here...I'd like a grip frame done in chrome.
Great (sick?) minds think alike. ;) One of mine will be chrome (and the other satin black).
As I said earlier, I only have black crinkle and flat black powders in my possession. I have satin black and chrome and lower temp clear gloss on order already (as well as the smaller oven).
When the stuff comes in, I think I'll just go ahead and do a few of my things in those finishes and post pics for you brethren. I know I'd want to see the goods, too before I sent something off to somebody. :-*
Powder coating is the way to go imho..Had the 3 grips done on my carbines by a pro painter using class A paint but now and barely a month I see small chip offs and I don't even rough them up >:( The trigger guard as well as that extended part below the grip are most susceptible..The rest are fine and perfect though even the sections you install screws on. Best regards.
so in anyone's opinion that knows about painting metals
what makes these grips so hard to paint? what would make them easier to paint? process? plating? ???
Quote from: 1377x on October 30, 2012, 06:42:15 AM
so in anyone's opinion that knows about painting metals
what makes these grips so hard to paint? what would make them easier to paint? process? plating? ???
What grips are you referring to, Ed? The standard plastic grips? Wood grips? Those can't be powder coated. Painting is no problem, but durability and loss of detail might be an issue.
Quote from: Davio on October 30, 2012, 07:20:48 AM
What grips are you referring to, Ed? The standard plastic grips? Wood grips? Those can't be powder coated. Painting is no problem, but durability and loss of detail might be an issue.
i meant grip frame!!!
Quote from: 1377x on October 30, 2012, 07:23:05 AM
i meant grip frame!!!
LOL I should have known. Sorry. ??? :)
when i was writing the question grip frame was going through my mind but grips is what i wrote.
i know the grip frame is hard to paint because of the metal composition but there has to be a way to put a durable finish on it that will last
Yes there must be a magic formula of some sort :) Maybe Mr. Davio is an alchemist of the 1st order 8) Looking forward to some pics dear sir and good luck. Btw them paints seem to lose their impact resistance when attached to this thing. Best regards.
I'm interested. Have two grip frames and barrel bands and one side plate.
Quote from: 1377x on October 30, 2012, 08:06:39 AM
when i was writing the question grip frame was going through my mind but grips is what i wrote.
i know the grip frame is hard to paint because of the metal composition but there has to be a way to put a durable finish on it that will last
Why is it hard to paint?
Sand, polish etc, hot alkaline wash, bake to remove all moisture/oils, paint or powder coat.
Quote from: BDS on October 30, 2012, 05:18:16 PM
Why is it hard to paint?
Sand, polish etc, hot alkaline wash, bake to remove all moisture/oils, paint or powder coat.
im sure crosman went through a process ,too, the paint still flakes off
there is somthing keeping that paint from sticking and its not just with this current style
it stated long before that
do you keep an alkaline bath handy?
if you do then maybe you should open up shop and start painting this stuff too
ya, I do cause alkaline bath = hot, soapy water... and I doubt Crosman does much cleaning of those parts at the factory but, thought we were talkin about post-factory paint and powder coat?
Quote from: BDS on October 30, 2012, 07:05:49 PM
ya, I do cause alkaline bath = hot, soapy water... and I doubt Crosman does much cleaning of those parts at the factory but, thought we were talkin about post-factory paint and powder coat?
does it have to have baking soda in it? or just hot soapy water?
Quote from: 1377x on October 30, 2012, 07:08:21 PM
does it have to have baking soda in it? or just hot soapy water?
FWIW: Anything that is non-acidic and more base (alkaline) than pH neutral (7) is fine. Soap and water if the soap has lye (sodium hydroxide) or other higher than 7 pH ingredients to it. The main thing in an alkali base is that it makes certain there are no acids on the parts. No matter what you use, rinse well with water (many high pH things are slippery / slimy and need to be rinsed very well). Clorox is high pH and makes a good rinse with just 1/4 cup to a gallon. It is sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide and both are high pH / high alkalinity.
Let me know when you get ready to start (powder coat) . I have grip frame and pump tube. Thx
Can an Aluminum Breech be done? ???
Quote from: arkmaker on October 31, 2012, 12:53:08 AM
Can an Aluminum Breech be done? ???
Yes, anything that is a conductor (aluminum certainly is). Only thing with a breech would be some precise masking with the high temp tape and plugging. The powder coating would not be a good thing on any of the the inside nor the slide slot for the probe and bolt.
It's very durable, but not anything that should be used where there is movement involving contact or bearing surfaces.
Anodizing aluminum parts, however would be a dunk job (all surfaces) and be fine. Plating (electrodep) as well.
Done weeks ago, but just got the camera out, so...
This is for the Kung Fu Panda build (that will be all ivory and black). The brake used to be Crosman silver, now satin black. The smooth (for BB/Dart only) barrel was a 760 barrel and used to be Crosman blued (so black kinda). The Melon PA was aluminum (aluminium). :)
Fantastic finish :-*
Looks professionally done, Davio.
good job!
i want to see this gun together
Wow very nice work looks awesome.
Cool stuff....I got a trigger frame when you're ready to take orders!
Quote from: Fronzdan on December 04, 2012, 02:04:29 AM
Cool stuff....I got a trigger frame when you're ready to take orders!
x2
Great lookin job :-* :-*
Thanks, guys.
I am not new to powder coating, but newer to these air guns so it is fun figuring out what these various parts take to get a good coat.
Also, as to durability, I cannot scratch this stuff off with my thumbnail trying as I might. When I had to make room for the muzzle brake on the ivory barrel, I turned the end on the shop grinder after powder coating the barrel. I fully rested it on the cast iron table and rotated it many many times. When done, I just wiped the marks off the surface and you can't tell it ever got any rough treatment at all.
Here are some new pics...
and some others...
Hope you like. :)
Very Very Nice ... :-*
looks great!
good to know the powder coat is durable
try the fingernail test on the standard finish see what happens from ny experience it flakes off in some parts
Hi Mr. Davio. Did you bead blast it prior to powder coating? Best regards.
Quote from: 1377x on December 06, 2012, 10:19:22 AM
looks great!
good to know the powder coat is durable
try the fingernail test on the standard finish see what happens from ny experience it flakes off in some parts
Thanks, Ed. :) I actually DID pick off the Crosman black from around the safety hole mounds and where the lettering is. It was too easy. :( I'm getting real good at getting the casting lines off, too except for the two pinch points. All the rest and inside the trigger guard is a piece of cake with the right top secret tools. ;)
Looky here:
Quote from: crossliner on December 06, 2012, 11:30:31 AM
Hi Mr. Davio. Did you bead blast it prior to powder coating? Best regards.
No blasting. It was the "go to", though. It won't get the casting flash line, so why bother. Now if I had one from the CCS with no parting line flash, then I might just get the inferior black paint off with walnut or pecan shell blast medium. Even soda blasting would work just fine. It would be a smoother finish with less of a peen effect.
The Crosman pot metal has a fair amount of pitting as well. Harsh blasting tends to exaggerate that sometimes. My$.02 USD :-*
I'm just glad it conducts. :)
One other comment. So many of you seem to like the bedliner sprays (cheap, fairly durable maybe, and hides the crap out of the metal finishing flaws). I have used krinkle finish for automotive applications in the past. I think I'll get some and try that out on something just because... :-*
That silver one up there looks like nickel, not zamac - very nice :-*
:-* Those parts look great :-*