I have spent 15 dollars in gas driving around trying to find a lighter spring that a I can use a 22 lr shell as a guide. Found a lighter spring, not light enough, but can't get the shell in it. Anybody got a stock number of a spring from any particular store? At this point I could have bought one of TKO's kits. Not above that, but I have to try and do it myself even with my limited tools and knowledge. Not sure if that is a good thing or a bad thing. It has cost me $$$ before though.
Not sure where your at or if you have an Ace Hardware but I've got an Ace here in my town and they have tons of springs to choose from in all shapes and sizes. you might try to locate an Ace Hardware in your area
As Blake said, "Ace is the Place" for your generic spring selection. I have also found that Lowes and Home Depot have a limited supply of springs.
Carl
The spring I used w/.22LR shell in a 1377 that I got from Ace Hardware was a Servalite Spring #6U
Actually Ace was my first stop. I will look for the 6U, thanks.
The .22 shell will slide thru the 6U spring, but its a good fit. Just take needle nose pliers and curl the top coil just abit to hold the shell in.
Most Ace's have a big steel box with a spring assortment inside. You buy the springs separately. Don't look for individual packages hanging on the wall.
Bring the casing with you as we'll as a spring to compare.
Plan B - Order the trigger kit from TKO. You get a lighter spring, spring guide and appropriately sized pivot pins.
Believe I will order 2 tonight. Have to have lady friend use her paypal account, won't see her till tonight.
Quote from: mackelby on January 20, 2013, 08:15:25 PM
Believe I will order 2 tonight. Have to have lady friend use her paypal account, won't see her till tonight.
If you just want the spring from the kit send me your mailing address.
if you can find this spring or one close to it
Century spring # C-612 (1 3/8 X .025) it will soften the pull quite a bit if you want it lighter then cut one coil at a time until satisfied
get two just in case but you can always stretch the first
I wouldn't think the spring from TKO kit would work with out the spacer. The spacer appears to have a pretty thick bottom to it.
I have noticed looking at pictures of spring mods that aftermarket kits use a spring guide (usually delrin) at the bottom of the spring, but the DIY mods use the guide(.22 case) at the top of the spring. Is one better than the other? One aftermarket kit had two guides, one rode inside the other. Can't remember which one it was.
Dave
Whatever feels best for you is the best way to do it. Particularly with light springs, guides help to keep them from bendng and deforming when pulling the trigger. This action can change the way the trigger feels and can make the gun unsafe. Whenever changing the sear spring or doing mods to it, bump test the gun while it is cocked and unloaded to make sure it cannot accidentally go off.
Quote from: DaveB50 on January 23, 2013, 02:52:10 AM
I have noticed looking at pictures of spring mods that aftermarket kits use a spring guide (usually delrin) at the bottom of the spring, but the DIY mods use the guide(.22 case) at the top of the spring. Is one better than the other? One aftermarket kit had two guides, one rode inside the other. Can't remember which one it was.
Dave
Dave www.airgunsmith.com (http://www.airgunsmith.com) sell the sear spring setup you was looking for
Jim
I like tinkering and I did a quick mod I read about here, cutting the stock spring and then stretching it. Definitely feels better. I think I will try the .22 shell casing mod and polishing the trigger/sear contact points next.
Dude... 8) I feel your pain, where have you been shopping? The only places that I know of in small town america are Ace or True Value stores with those great small parts drawers and goodies. The big-box stores are worthless for this kind of stuff as usual.
The TKO set up is fine but, I have either used lighter springs or smaller/shorter springs from a variety of sources with as good or better results. As for the typical .22 LR casing size I.D., don't let it drive your spring choice, any small and smooth device like a flat top rivet or nylon screw will do the same job as the .22 LR case, all it does is allow the sear to move smoothly for a fraction of an inch, that's it. As for length of spring, shorter is better than too long (tension) and... you can use those very thin 10-32 flat washers (Ace & True Value) to stack up on the lower spring post to fine tune the spring length and tension.
I have a TKO trigger kit on my 1377 . It is helping and after lots of polishing and massaging , the trigger has improved . Still, I am not very happy with it but it would have to do . So , having learned the lesson the hard way , for my two customs 2400KTS I ordered and installed the P-rod frame assembly for each one . That is a trigger I can live with , but it will cost you $37.00 plus $4.00 S/H and it needs a small mod to the hammer, very easy to do(no biggie) . To me it is worth it . If you want a trigger second stage totally adjustable to what you like and even capable of competition ... that is it .
Quote from: DaveB50 on January 23, 2013, 02:52:10 AM
I have noticed looking at pictures of spring mods that aftermarket kits use a spring guide (usually delrin) at the bottom of the spring, but the DIY mods use the guide(.22 case) at the top of the spring. Is one better than the other? One aftermarket kit had two guides, one rode inside the other. Can't remember which one it was.
Dave
AC used to make the two piece delrin guide/springs.
One feature of his guide, that no one else addresses, was that it was sized to also be a trigger stop
The two pieces were just the right length.
He no longer makes and sells parts.
Wish I had known would have bought a few extras, (his prices were also very easy on the wallet)
If anyone has a lathe and the ability, bet they are fairly eady to make.