VOIDED MY WARRANTY

dan_house · April 30, 2013, 12:39:31 AM

Quote from: nomobux on April 29, 2013, 09:51:22 PM
but I think it's creeping to the rear after 10.

How does the rear sight attach? does it "squeeze" together like a scope ring clamping onto the rail?
IF so, put a very small dab of valve lapping compound in the dowtail slot where the sight would clamp on.The grit aids in the gripping.
Just found that out from the Green....

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 02:45:42 AM

This wil be in 2 parts because I can only post 3 pics. I really voided my warranty today, I took this thing apart. Here are some pics of the trigger groupe.

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 02:51:09 AM

here are some more pics of the trigger groupe. The picture is shooting this thing on the bench. It likes the new pellets I bought on ebay, the GAMO Tomahawk pellets. It does not like "match" flat nose pellets. If this thing had a trigger like I have on my 1322, it would be a tack driver. Also it does not like the cock assist at all.

BigErn · April 30, 2013, 03:42:59 AM

Wow that is a weird looking trigger group

. Looks like the Gamo Tomahawks are the pellet of choice for your gun. Will have to try those as well. What are you shooting it from?

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 04:23:56 AM

Quote from: BigErn on April 30, 2013, 03:42:59 AM
Wow that is a weird looking trigger group . Looks like the Gamo Tomahawks are the pellet of choice for your gun. Will have to try those as well. What are you shooting it from?

I'm shooting it from 5m LOL. I use my makeshift bench. 2 plastic folding horses, a piece of plywood, a towel, a 2x6 with a shot bag filled with rags and some 2x4's with folded up towels. My target box is at 5m.

Tater · April 30, 2013, 06:38:25 AM

What caused all of the scratches in the first pic in the second batch?

BDS · April 30, 2013, 02:29:36 PM

Duck: thanks for showing us the trigger guts

That trigger group will take some research for spring changes, double-leg torsion springs are out there but... finding the same bend geometry may be tough. The wire diameter looks heavy to me, about 1/3 that diameter might make a huge difference in pull weight. Try Lee Spring http://www.leespring.com/index.asp?CountryCode=001 as one resource and Century Spring is another http://www.centuryspring.com/index.php

Crosshairs · April 30, 2013, 02:52:45 PM

Looks rather crude and could use a good polishing and spring change. It makes me want to get one and show crosman how it should shoot after i get my hands on one but not just yet. Thanks for the pics.
Mike

BDS · April 30, 2013, 02:57:21 PM

Quote from: Tater on April 30, 2013, 06:38:25 AM
What caused all of the scratches in the first pic in the second batch?

More lighting and a close-up pic

nomobux · April 30, 2013, 03:03:35 PM

I noticed in your trigger pic that the adjustment screw is backed out. Did you do that ? Mine came screwed all the way in tight ! I wonder if a guy could drill and tap the rear sight block for a set screw and then drill a slight ( shallow ) indentation on the gun itself to run the set down into. Do you think it would hold the sight from creeping back ? That would eliminate tearing the gun down. I'd rather not do that. It will shoot, if you can move the original sight forward about on inch or so.

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 04:16:55 PM

Quote from: nomobux on April 30, 2013, 03:03:35 PM
I noticed in your trigger pic that the adjustment screw is backed out. Did you do that ? Mine came screwed all the way in tight ! I wonder if a guy could drill and tap the rear sight block for a set screw and then drill a slight ( shallow ) indentation on the gun itself to run the set down into. Do you think it would hold the sight from creeping back ? That would eliminate tearing the gun down. I'd rather not do that. It will shoot, if you can move the original sight forward about on inch or so.

OK, you want to keep your sight from moving? Try this, push down on the rear sight, remove the large adjusting screw. Then remove the smaller screw that holds sight blade in. I can't remember if it's a 8-32 or 10-32, but it is not metric. Now find the same screw size and cut one with enought threads to keep the sight blade tight and have it push on the piston body to keep the sight from moving. Confused? Good, Now after that fill the dove groves with J-B weld so the sight will not move. The only way to keep the sight from moving is to weld it to the tube or move the sight all the way back in the groves.

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 04:18:21 PM

And as far as the adjustment screw on the trigger, I have found it to do nothing.

Crosshairs · April 30, 2013, 04:26:40 PM

In pic 0721 is that a crack behind the e clip top right.
Mik

nomobux · April 30, 2013, 04:31:55 PM

Quote from: mudduck48 on April 30, 2013, 04:16:55 PM
OK, you want to keep your sight from moving? Try this, push down on the rear sight, remove the large adjusting screw. Then remove the smaller screw that holds sight blade in. I can't remember if it's a 8-32 or 10-32, but it is not metric. Now find the same screw size and cut one with enought threads to keep the sight blade tight and have it push on the piston body to keep the sight from moving. Confused? Good, Now after that fill the dove groves with J-B weld so the sight will not move. The only way to keep the sight from moving is to weld it to the tube or move the sight all the way back in the groves.

Lol .. confused. are you saying to do this with the sight moved forward a inch or so ? the screw and JB ? I really don't see why the set screw wouldn't work when run down into the drilled dimple in the body. But, what do I know about the dynamics of a NP .. ie: nuttin Thanx

mudduck48 · April 30, 2013, 05:24:26 PM

I was kidding about the J-B weld. I tried the longer screw and all it did was scratch the tube. Like I said, the only way I know of to stop the sight from moving is to weld it to the tube or move it all the way back. Just thought of another way, move the sight where you want it then add scope riser bases behind it to take up the space between the sight and the back of the tube.