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Cheap CL 1377 Score...

Started by fasteddy, February 08, 2014, 05:50:17 PM

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fasteddy


So I had been searching for Crosman pistols on Craigslist since I got my backpacker, and there was one listed that I had never seen -- he didn't use a model or make to list, just "American Classic" in the title.  It looked great, and he said it was 'as good as new', and that I could have it with a tin of .177 pellets for $25.  I jumped on it, and when we met, I took it out and could barely pump it twice.  He responded, 'Just like I said... as tight as new!'  I wasn't sure how the gun being so 'tight' that it was unpumpable was a selling point, but I wanted a project anyways!

The first pic is valve inlet when I first took it out.  Looks like a valve head from a gas engine!  The seals were even worse... I polished everything as much as I could (there were some bits that almost looked like calcium deposits below the o-ring), modded the valve, replaced the pump arm/cup with the stock one from my backpacker, and did a full trigger job (spring from Ace, guide from a bic pen!) etc. and put on the extra set of grips KJ sent me.  Not a bad little piece for $25 with spare parts and a tin of pellets!

breakfastchef

I suppose it would be pretty difficult to kill a 1377. $25 was a  good price and you proved how some simple work can bring it right back to life. I probably would have tried to talk him down a bit because the gun was not functional and there might have been some internal damage.
Larry

bgmcgee

Nice score.  :-*  Craig's list is where I got my 1377 from for the same price too. Now there is nothing on it from my original purchase.  ;D
"I've lost what's left of my right mind"

K.O.

I recently bought a new trigger group and pistol grip and as parts it came up to close to 25 bucks so yep I say it is a score, I also just scored a PC77

for 25 bucks. Shoots 550 on 12 pumps but will leak down if you let it sit.  Will try warming it a bit and spraying a bit of alcohol in the pump tube and

see if it clears the muck if not a tear down and cleaning.  I will be .22 very soon...
1322XLT(2100/13XX hybyid)750 fps @ 16 pumps w/CPHP 14.3g

MK1322(2240/13XX/MK177 hybrid) 805 fps at @ 22 pumps w/14.3g CPHP

about 5 more 13xxs
Two Daisy 953(# 31x Jan. 1985) & (Sept 2004)
2100b (with old style piston)
.25 Mrod (50fpe tune)
.177 BSA Buccaneer (on the way)

fasteddy

Thanks guy!

Is it difficult to pull apart a PC77?  If not, may as well go for it! 

If I were keeping it together, I feel like my routine would be brake cleaner, let dry, WD-40, let dry/wipe out, then a couple drops of the crosman oil.  It worked on this one enough for it to get 6-7 pumps for the day or so before I pulled it apart, but it didn't change what was on the end of that valve! 

breakfastchef

Quote from: fasteddy on February 08, 2014, 11:47:50 PM
Thanks guy!

Is it difficult to pull apart a PC77?  If not, may as well go for it! 

If I were keeping it together, I feel like my routine would be brake cleaner, let dry, WD-40, let dry/wipe out, then a couple drops of the crosman oil.  It worked on this one enough for it to get 6-7 pumps for the day or so before I pulled it apart, but it didn't change what was on the end of that valve!


I would personally ALWAYS choose to dis-assemble a 13xx, clean and re-assemble using appropriate lubes. Shooting various chemicals and salves blindly in a tube, particularly a compression tube, is not the preferred way to bring life to an broken airgun.
Larry

bgmcgee

Easy to break down. If you've got it tore down far enough to get the valve out that's about it. The valves cone apart fairly easy with a 8-32 bolt in the screw hole and something to fit in the transfer port hole. Just unscrew it. And as always I agree with Larry on the lubing process. Tear it down clean it up and give it the proper lubes.
"I've lost what's left of my right mind"

fasteddy

That's the only way I've done it so far... I've taken these things apart enough now that I can have it to bits with my eyes closed!  I was referring to KO's comment about the pc77.  Not sure what that involves.


bgmcgee

"I've lost what's left of my right mind"

fasteddy

Ah ha!  Not too 'fast' on that one!


K.O.

the only reason I have not taken it down for cleaning is that it still has the stock roll pin and If alcohol did the trick then no need right now...

Alcohol will not harm the seals and can sometimes clear minor crud.

Brake fluid is a bad idea as is wd40...
1322XLT(2100/13XX hybyid)750 fps @ 16 pumps w/CPHP 14.3g

MK1322(2240/13XX/MK177 hybrid) 805 fps at @ 22 pumps w/14.3g CPHP

about 5 more 13xxs
Two Daisy 953(# 31x Jan. 1985) & (Sept 2004)
2100b (with old style piston)
.25 Mrod (50fpe tune)
.177 BSA Buccaneer (on the way)

fasteddy

Is brake fluid a prob for cleaning when disassembled?  I've found it perfect when I'm cleaning the tube when empty.  And I have a ton of it around.  It strips everything entirely, but I lubricate fully once it's dry.  Seems to get it to a perfect shine in a hurry!


breakfastchef

Alcohol would also be my first choice. Perhaps carburetor cleaner on the tube only if there is some stubborn grime.
Larry

K.O.

Once disassembled I do not know but it works a paint stripper sometimes and I do not think these seals will stand up to it.

I do not like wd40 because it dries to a gummy hygroscopic yellowish gunk.

I just use mild soapy(dawn) water to clean and I also have some stuff that is a lot like simple green...
1322XLT(2100/13XX hybyid)750 fps @ 16 pumps w/CPHP 14.3g

MK1322(2240/13XX/MK177 hybrid) 805 fps at @ 22 pumps w/14.3g CPHP

about 5 more 13xxs
Two Daisy 953(# 31x Jan. 1985) & (Sept 2004)
2100b (with old style piston)
.25 Mrod (50fpe tune)
.177 BSA Buccaneer (on the way)

fasteddy

I can see how it wouldn't be good for seals.  I'll stick to using it only when disassembled.

:-*