?s RE: Painting Plastic

[Flex]

While there are those that say "you can never go wrong with Basic Black", I'm thinking about adding some color to the plastic "furniture" on one of my Crosman builds. I did a search (on this forum) on painting plastic and was surprised to find that some were having issues with the "Fusion" line of Krylon spray paints. My wife has used the stuff on several occasions and seems to be having good results. The parts that I intend to paint, a fore grip, pistol grip panels and a rifle butt stock, are essentially new (i.e. minimally handled).

I have some (2 new cans) of the "Fusion" paint in River Rock. I also have an assortment of non-Fusion Krylon "Camo" paint (black, loam, olive drab and brown). My questions are: if I follow the directions, will the Krylon Fusion paint adhere AND dry properly on the forearm, grips and stock? Additionally, will it be OK to apply the non-Fusion "Camo" paint to the River Rock base coat? I know that there is a Krylon "Fusion" primer but since the cans states that no primer is required, I thought that I might spare myself $5 as well as yet another trip to WalMart. I also have some Rustoleum Ruddy Brown primer that I could use if it is thought to be appropriate.

Prior to searching the forum for info on this topic, I had read a few posts by members describing their "misadventures in painting" (and have had some misadventures of my own with different painting projects). I would rather this not be a trial and error project and will welcome any hints and/or tips that members may have on this topic. Thanks. Flex

[BigErn]

I have never tried the Krylon fusion paints, but pretty sure you can use it for your projects. The only bad thing I have heard is that it takes a very long time to dry/cure. I have painted many airgun parts since getting into this hobby. Plastic can be tricky to paint. I have always used Rustolium brand paints and primers with no issues thus far.

For plastic I use the Rustolium plastic primer which is white in color and you DON'T sand it before your topcoat. Rustolium also has paints that adhere to plastics without the use of primers. I have had success with this method as well. For heavy used plastic parts, I would use the plastic primer just in case. Again this is with Rustolium paints I get from Home Depot.

As far as using camo paint over the Fusion paint, that should be fine as long as the Fusion paint adheres well to the plastic in the first place.

[cherokeesteve]

I have had good results with both krylon fusion and krylon camo spray paints (the camo cans I have say they use the fusion paint in them ). The camo paint dries quickly and doesn't run if applied sparingly. I always top coat with a matte clear coat and find the Rustoleum brand better than the krylon brand, the krylon clear seems more likely to run no matter how sparingly I apply, just my experience using both brands.
I also place a shop light just above what I've painted to help the drying process.

[Davio]

I have had good results with both krylon fusion and krylon camo spray paints (the camo cans I have say they use the fusion paint in them ). The camo paint dries quickly and doesn't run if applied sparingly. I always top coat with a matte clear coat and find the Rustoleum brand better than the krylon brand, the krylon clear seems more likely to run no matter how sparingly I apply, just my experience using both brands.

+1 on the fusion and the Rustoleum clear being a better product.

[akula8608]

I spray painted the 2400kt I just got with krylon Italian olive. Put on a good coat and a second coat 24 hours later. didn't touch it for a couple days to let it cure. Washed it down with some 409, rinsed with hot water first. Turned out great. Holding up wonderfully.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/krylon-italian-olive-indoor/outdoor-satin-spray-850115/

[BigTinBoat]

I just got some Rust-Oleum Camo paint that indicates it "Bonds" to plastic. Directions say to coat w/i like and hour or wait 24hrs. It also says that it could take 5-7 days to bond to plastic. I painted mine Saturday and am not touching it till this Saturday. I'll let you know how it works out.

[BDS]

Plastics 101 for the potential painters out there...

The reason these parts are called plastic is their physical state, which is "plastic" meaning moveable, or pliable or, at the molecular level, the molecule chains are not rigid like steel, glass and ceramic.

So, this is the primary reason that many plastics are difficult to paint or coat. Also, some of the chemicals (monomers or polymers) and solvents used to make plastics react badly or poorly with certain paint chemicals and solvents. This is why some paints never seem to dry on plastic parts. They can't dry if the chemicals are leaching into the plastic and reacting.

Rustoleum and few other makers have come along way in the past few years with plastic coatings but, for parts that will get handled or touched (a lot) there is also the durability factor as well as the surface reflectivity factor (fancy words for "it looks dull or faded").

Several light/thin coats of matte or semi-gloss clear over your base color is the way to go but... be sure it is compatible with your base coat and the plastic underneath. Clear coats can attack base coats especially if they are sprayed on heavy or "wet" and... if they get through the base coat (very likely) they can also react with the plastic and ruin your whole paint job (and day).

[arkmaker †]

I was just doing a camo job on a 2240 ffor the throw down and completely destroyed it when I applied the 2nd color. I used rustolemum tan for the base and figured a flat black for the 2nd color. I used Fusion which I had on hand and it turned into a runny mess. The two paints are not compatible, so don't do it! So much for the thrown down   

[Davio]

The fusions are compatible with one another.

Also, there is high adhesion primer that is great to use on plastic that you do not want to scuff up to give it "tooth".  A light spray of it dries totally in minutes and then is followed with the "color(s)", then the clear.

[BigTinBoat]

I was just doing a camo job on a 2240 ffor the throw down and completely destroyed it when I applied the 2nd color. I used rustolemum tan for the base and figured a flat black for the 2nd color. I used Fusion which I had on hand and it turned into a runny mess. The two paints are not compatible, so don't do it! So much for the thrown down 

Thanks so much for posting this. (Sorry it happened though) I put my base of Green Rust Oleum Camo on and was going to use Tan Camo and then Black Fusion on top. Guess I'll go get a black in the Rust-Camo.

[BigTinBoat]

The fusions are compatible with one another.

He's talking 2 different brands - Krylon Fusion and Rust-O Camo for plastics. I would have thought they would work together......maybe not enough dry time between?
I know when I tried enamel over a laquer (or vice-versa) (both rattle can) on alum it made a real fancy krinkle finish.

[Davio]

He's talking 2 different brands - Krylon Fusion and Rust-O Camo for plastics. I would have thought they would work together......maybe not enough dry time between?
I know when I tried enamel over a laquer (or vice-versa) (both rattle can) on alum it made a real fancy krinkle finish.

Yeah, I understood that arkmaker had compatibility problems with the two different brands he had on hand, but just added (not argued) that I KNOW the Fusion colors (both camo and other colors as well) are compatible with one another.   

[BigErn]

I will always stick with Rustolium paints for my projects, the camo paint line from them is excellent. Also very difficult to paint is aluminum so watch out for that one!

[BigTinBoat]

Yeah, I understood that arkmaker had compatibility problems with the two different brands he had on hand, but just added (not argued) that I KNOW the Fusion colors (both camo and other colors as well) are compatible with one another.   

Gotcha - since I started with the Rust-O, I'm picking up a can of Black Rust-O (and save the fusion for another job).

[BDS]

Good call on the aluminum BigErn, it needs thorough cleaning and quick (really quick) primer coating before it oxidizes. 

The correct way to paint aluminum is to anodize or chem-film it prior to painting. Those processes seal the aluminum and prep it for paint. Bare aluminum is oxidizing as soon as it hits the atmosphere.