• Welcome to Crosman Air Pistol Owners Forum.

?s RE: Painting Plastic

Started by Flex, May 13, 2014, 04:01:38 PM

0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

Crosshairs

#30
I have had good luck with the fusion paint but as some said prep is key even a oily finger print can screw up the job. Be sure you rough up the surface so the paint sticks well read the directions some colors have different instructions. I think one you have to wait 24 hours before the next coat. In most cases i will heat up what ever i am painting with a hair dryer nice and warm not hot. Things like this will help you get a better finish. do a test on something else that's the same material it you can. Most of all don't rush it take your sweet time plan out the job how and where are you going to hang your parts ect. Good luck. BTW i only use fusion on plastic. I use the same paint as Big Ern on metal or duracoat and gunkote for metal.
                                    Mike
Treat people the way you want to be treated, Life will be so much better !!!

BigTinBoat

Not sure if I should clear coat it, or with what clear but at least the "Camo" part is done on these....

Baltim0re28

Quote from: BigTinBoat on May 16, 2014, 08:41:03 PM
Not sure if I should clear coat it, or with what clear but at least the "Camo" part is done on these....

That came out great!!
James.

KevinP

Kevin
Albany, New York

BigTinBoat

Quote from: Baltim0re28 on May 16, 2014, 10:32:54 PM
That came out great!!

Thanks - all I did was print a shadow grass pattern on paper from google and then have my wife cut it out (too intricate for me with x-acto). Then sprayed Green base coat. I then used black, then tan then earth brown.

I found some Krylon Clear that I just sprayed on lightly and it doesn't appear to be lifting or bubbling the paint. I'll do a couple more coats and let it dry a few days before handling.
Hopefully it will last on there.

BigTinBoat

Well the "satin" is just a bit on the shiny side (as you can see by the flash reflection), but after it gets hard a little steel wool should dull it a bit. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

cherokeesteve

looks awesome, came out great. let it sit the full cure time recommened, could be up to seven days.
I'm like a lactating mother...I don't mind pumping

1377 w/green dot/laser, 2240 modded, T4 modded, 2289 modded, M4-177 modded, 2400 KT in CO2 and HPA.

BigTinBoat

Quote from: cherokeesteve on May 17, 2014, 02:26:31 AM
looks awesome, came out great. let it sit the full cure time recommened, could be up to seven days.

Thanks! I am going to let it sit for a week. Plus my TKO hasn't arrived yet, I'm waiting for that to sight it in.

targettgii

That is an excellent job you did. :-* :-* :-*
Tom

Modded 1377
Modded 2240
Modded 1322
1750 HPA pistol
Stock 2260(for now)
.22 Gen.2 Marauder
CCS 2300
Custom 1740
38 T

K.O.

#39
I just did my pump arm for the 764 I put together I used matt black  rust-oleum bumper and trim paint, you really have to look for the very slight mismatch between the 664 stock and 760 pump arm. :)

wait I think I will call it a 660 since I use the 66 reciever
1322XLT(2100/13XX hybyid)750 fps @ 16 pumps w/CPHP 14.3g

MK1322(2240/13XX/MK177 hybrid) 805 fps at @ 22 pumps w/14.3g CPHP

about 5 more 13xxs
Two Daisy 953(# 31x Jan. 1985) & (Sept 2004)
2100b (with old style piston)
.25 Mrod (50fpe tune)
.177 BSA Buccaneer (on the way)

BigErn

Both of those projects came out great  :-* :-*

Flex

Well, I thought I had this issue resolved but, alas, not quite. My local WalMart has a sizable selection of both Krylon and Rustoleum spray paints. However, they don't seem to have the colors that I'm wanting. They don't have the Krylon "Fusion" in black satin finish. (So there goes the simple "just paint the forestock" plan). Neither do they have much of a selection of Rustoleum "Paint for Plastic". The exceptions being the full "Camo" line and a white primer for plastic. Since I already have the full selection of the regular Rustoleum "Camo" line, I'm now thinking that I will get the Rustoleum plastic primer since the can states that once primed, plastic can be painted with any paint. (At least that's my perception of the labeling on the can). Has anyone painted over this product with regular spray paint?  Flex
Daisy Power Line 92
Crosman 781 Single-Pump rifle
Crosman Fury Break barrel springer
Crosman BackPacker 2289g
Crosman 1322c
Crosman 1377c
Crosman PowerMaster 760 SC
Crosman 1377 (2nd variant)
Crosman PumpMaster 760
Chinese B-3-? .177cal
Crosman 2240 (now .177 carbine hybrid)
Daisy 105 B
Crosman A*I*R 17 Single-Pump rifle (Phase I)
Crosman 140 .22cal rifle (Fourth Variant)
Black Ops "Exterminator" CO2  BB revolver
Chinese B 3-1 .22 cal
Bemjamin 132 .22 cal pump pistol
Hatsan TAC-BOSS 250XT CO2 BB pistol
Crosman 1008 RepeatAIR .177cal CO2 pellet pistol
Daisy 717 target pistol

Crosshairs

Treat people the way you want to be treated, Life will be so much better !!!

BDS

Quote from: Flex on June 04, 2014, 06:05:14 AM
Well, I thought I had this issue resolved but, alas, not quite. My local WalMart has a sizable selection of both Krylon and Rustoleum spray paints. However, they don't seem to have the colors that I'm wanting. They don't have the Krylon "Fusion" in black satin finish. (So there goes the simple "just paint the forestock" plan). Neither do they have much of a selection of Rustoleum "Paint for Plastic". The exceptions being the full "Camo" line and a white primer for plastic. Since I already have the full selection of the regular Rustoleum "Camo" line, I'm now thinking that I will get the Rustoleum plastic primer since the can states that once primed, plastic can be painted with any paint. (At least that's my perception of the labeling on the can). Has anyone painted over this product with regular spray paint?  Flex

You need to branch out of Walmart and find the good stuff on-line or at Ace or HD or Lowes etc. Your perception is correct however, with rattle-can painting, you can't control the saturation of solvents or volatiles. This is what ruins plastic paint jobs. The plastic primer may claim to "seal" the plastic surface but it only takes a small amount of the follow on color coat volatiles to leach through the primer and bam, paint job is cr%p-ola.  >:(

Simple process: a) Scuff plastic surfaces as needed, b) Wash plastics in hot water with DW detergent and brush, thorough rinse and VERY thorough dry, c) Apply plastic primer (regardless of "self-priming" claims on color coat cans) d) Let primer dry 24 hours, e) Paint parts with color coat (3 coats with dry in-between) total dry time 72 hours , f) Apply clear coat of choice and let dry 72 hours.  :-*

This may seem a lengthy process but, I have parts that have been in service for years with no problems, including the initial finish being handled without any issues.

There are chemical reactions at work with all volatiles and polymers, monomers, etc. As my Chem. E. prof. once told me, "if you don't follow the protocol, you are a Test Pilot, on you own, call me from the scene of the crash if you need help".  :D ;D

Brian