duct seal

[airriflenut]

I finally got some duct seal for penetration/expansion testing.  The plumbers putty was getting old and dried out.  I picked up three 1 pound pugs, I'm going to make a plywood frame with hooks so I can hang it on my target stand to test performance at range.

I'm not familiar with this sticky stuff however.  Will it dry out if left in open air?  I'm going to line the frame with cling wrap and have enough to cover it up when I'm done shooting, I don't know if that will suffice for keeping it pliable.

[Tater]

I've left mine uncovered (indoors) for well over a year and it doesn't harden at all. I used to use it in the trades as an electrician and it's made to stay soft indifferently.
You might want to consider puuting a piece of metal behind the duct seal just in case.

[farrlarr]

I've left mine uncovered (indoors) for well over a year and it doesn't harden at all. I used to use it in the trades as an electrician and it's made to stay soft indifferently.
You might want to consider puuting a piece of metal behind the duct seal just in case.

I second the suggestion of backing the duct seal with a sheet of metal, given that you are going to end up with a fairly thin layer of duct seal if you make a box large enough to hold a normal target and use only 3 pounds of duct seal.  With a airgun of any reasonable power, you are likely to penetrate the duct seal and blow out the back of your target box.  Of course, you could also increase the depth of the duct seal; it isn't that expensive and having more than is absolutely necessary is not a bad thing.

[airriflenut]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

I plan on getting three more 1 pounds pugs at minimum.  The frame (not built yet) is going to be 4-6" square and probably 2-4" deep.  I had intended on using some thin sheet steel as a backer since I will be doing some indoor shooting as well...I heard that it makes a quiet pellet trap.

[farrlarr]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

I plan on getting three more 1 pounds pugs at minimum.  The frame (not built yet) is going to be 4-6" square and probably 2-4" deep.  I had intended on using some thin sheet steel as a backer since I will be doing some indoor shooting as well...I heard that it makes a quiet pellet trap.

As long as there is enough duct seal to prevent the pellet penetrating to the metal, you really won't even hear the pellet hitting it. 

[BillK]

I went to WallMart & got a cheap 9x13? baking pan.  Drilled a couple of holes to run some elect. wire through to hang it up.  I just use it for 600 fps & below.  Gotta clean out pellets and add a little more seal once in a while.  Great for basement shooting.

[airriflenut]

 I may have confused my intentions, this isn't for holding a target.  It's just going to be a wood frame with a backer of steel plate for pellet performance at range testing.  I've got 3/4" round stick on dots for aimers to put on the duct seal.  My target holder is made of 3/4" sch 40 PVC, my target holder is an open wood frame about 28-30" square.  The wood frame has cardboard stapled to it, then the targets stapled to the cardboard.

The frame hangs inside the PVC frame with screw hooks and screw eyes.  I'm going to put two additional hooks in for hanging the duct seal box.  This way I can switch from target frame to duct seal box as needed.

[Tater]

These are cheap ($1.xx) each) from Home Depot, Lowes... and are thicker than sheet metal.
Works great as emergency backing.



Also, if you put stickers right on the duct seal, they will likely shred shed up and get imbedded in it. Better to hang a paper target in front of it.

[farrlarr]

I agree with Tater that putting sticky dots directly on the duct seal isn't a good idea, since they will end up embedded in the duct seal, making a mess. 

[airriflenut]

I agree with Tater that putting sticky dots directly on the duct seal isn't a good idea, since they will end up embedded in the duct seal, making a mess.

Thanks for the tip!  I can probably do without the dots, the 3-12 UTG SWAT is clear enough to pick out things to aim at.

Tater...that electrical cover plate is a good idea, I had thought of using gang boxes to put the duct seal in but wasn't sure if it would dry out if it wasn't covered well.  That's cool though, I'm always looking for an excuse to go to Lowe's!!

Thanks to all for the info!!

[farrlarr]

Thanks for the tip!  I can probably do without the dots, the 3-12 UTG SWAT is clear enough to pick out things to aim at.

Tater...that electrical cover plate is a good idea, I had thought of using gang boxes to put the duct seal in but wasn't sure if it would dry out if it wasn't covered well.  That's cool though, I'm always looking for an excuse to go to Lowe's!!

Thanks to all for the info!!

Gang boxes work great for duct seal pellet traps.  Just get the biggest one you can find so it is easy to attach a target to the front (you can just tape in onto the box).  Since you are usually using a smaller box than you might make at home, you end up using less duct seal.  The only thing you need to do beyond buying and stuffing with duct seal is to drill a couple of holes in one side and attach a drawer pull handle so the box is easy to move.

I suggest that you you use some sort of target attached to your box.  That will give you much better aiming points than trying to pick out some imperfection in the duct seal to use as an aiming point.  Of course, if you do use the duct seal itself as an aiming point, you will destroy the aiming point if you hit near it and you won't really be able to tell how close you came to it.

[onebaddj]

I've always used the 10 lb buckets of plumbers putty and just put the lid back on it. I threw both of mine away just before my last move just to get rid of stuff. Had them since NC, so about 4 yrs.