1377 cocking question

Tater · June 15, 2015, 11:06:46 PM

Recently, my 1377 won't cock unless I put in a pump or two in beforehand. What would cause this to start happening? No internal work was done to the gun, just added a steel breech and longer barrel.

bgmcgee · June 16, 2015, 01:13:56 AM

That shouldn't make a difference on cocking. You didn't add a different hammer spring did you? Sometimes with a stronger spring they wont cock. You might have to take the breech back off and make sure the hammer pin is in the hammer correctly. That's all I can think of.

agninja · June 16, 2015, 05:11:59 AM

I've had something like that happen before. You just have to take it apart and put it back together again.

The cocking of the gun would only be related to the problem for the simple fact that you are moving and vibrating the gun as you pump it, which then jiggles the hammer pin or whatever is hung up free again. But it has nothing to do with a build up of air pressure or anything like that.

Tater · June 16, 2015, 04:06:00 PM

Thanks guys. It's just a small annoyance so I guess I'll live with it until I take it apart next time.

agninja · June 17, 2015, 03:12:03 AM

Wait, don't you pump first THEN cock and load? Why are you loading first? It's less safe that way.

Tater · June 17, 2015, 06:32:36 PM

Quote from: agninja on June 17, 2015, 03:12:03 AM
Wait, don't you pump first THEN cock and load? Why are you loading first? It's less safe that way.

I never heard it was less safe. Why is it?

rangerfredbob · June 17, 2015, 09:32:49 PM

Because it's not loaded or cocked then it can't accidentally fire.

I just always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction and do it in whatever order feels good at the time, keeping my finger away from the trigger. But I'm the type that rarely uses the safety also...

GreyCoyote · June 18, 2015, 05:58:07 AM

You may want to check the length of the rear breech screw that came with the steel breech. It should be an 8-32 x 3/4", which 1/8" shorter than the stock screw. I have had two breech kits come with the longer, stock screw, which led to the hammer spring binding up and problems cocking. They went away when I put in a screw that was the correct length. If you pick up a new 8-32 x 3/4" screw, you can swap it in without disassembling the breech and see if it takes care of the problem. It could be a cheap, easy fix.

Tater · June 18, 2015, 08:20:11 AM

Quote from: GreyCoyote on June 18, 2015, 05:58:07 AM
You may want to check the length of the rear breech screw that came with the steel breech. It should be an 8-32 x 3/4", which 1/8" shorter than the stock screw. I have had two breech kits come with the longer, stock screw, which led to the hammer spring binding up and problems cocking. They went away when I put in a screw that was the correct length. If you pick up a new 8-32 x 3/4" screw, you can swap it in without disassembling the breech and see if it takes care of the problem. It could be a cheap, easy fix.

Thanks. I did have to cut the screw down when I first installed the steel breech a couple years ago. Haven't changed anything lately though, maybe the warmer temps?

The bolt moves all the way back, but it doesn't click and hold, just slides back a little towards the closed position until I pull it all the way back a few times.

KevinP · June 18, 2015, 09:08:36 AM

Sounds like the sear is hanging up.

agninja · June 19, 2015, 01:55:01 AM

Maybe there's too much play in the sear spring and it doesn't return as far as it should. Because the problem of NOT cocking either means the sear does not engage and hold the hammer back, or the bolt and hammer are restricted from moving backwards somehow. When you shake the gun does anything rattle around inside?

mudduck48 · June 19, 2015, 02:52:01 AM

Send it to me, I'll fix it for you. No charge, just shipping.

Tater · June 21, 2015, 10:14:38 PM

Quote from: agninja on June 19, 2015, 01:55:01 AM
Maybe there's too much play in the sear spring and it doesn't return as far as it should. Because the problem of NOT cocking either means the sear does not engage and hold the hammer back, or the bolt and hammer are restricted from moving backwards somehow. When you shake the gun does anything rattle around inside?

You may be on to something. I recently squeezed it a bit to lighten the pull. I'm using a .22 long shell as a spring guide and it doesn't leave much room to compress. I'll look into something else for a guide.
It was working fine for a couple of years, but maybe I altered something squeezing the spring while it was still in place.

LOL mudduck

mudduck48 · June 22, 2015, 06:02:02 AM

LOL? Send it to me and I'll fix it and give you a 2lb trigger pull. LOL, yea, right.

mudduck48 · June 22, 2015, 06:11:49 AM

OK, Do this, remove the left grip panel, remove the sear spring, stick something in the hole to push up on the sear and try to cock the bolt back. If pushing up on the sear does not engage it to the hammer, then the hammer is not going far enough back to get past the sear. Take the upper part of the gun off and find out why. If you can engage the hammer, then the sear is cocked and needs to be shimmed to stay straight in its place. This is assuming that all the parts are stock and have not been changed, ie the hammer, sear, hammer pin, bolt, etc. I have a phase II that has a 1lb trigger pull. The sear spring is really a weak spring and it will push the sear up enough to engage the hammer.