I like the speed of the .177

[BillK]

39M, I have got the bolt magnets from Crosman.  Drilled the flow thru bolt & glued the magnet in the hole.  Pretty easy....
2300S-001 Bolt Magnet @ $1.15

[39M]

39M, I have got the bolt magnets from Crosman.  Drilled the flow thru bolt & glued the magnet in the hole.  Pretty easy....
2300S-001 Bolt Magnet @ $1.15

I was actually thinking the opposite. I was going to remove the magnet, then hollow out the bolt, then drill and tap it for the new bolt handle location to fit a steel breech.

[39M]

Never considered the leade in terms of speed, more for accuracy (getting the pellet past the port without forcing it with the bolt).

Just a thought. For some reason I thought I remembered that Weatherby uses a long throat in their rifles to help increase velocity by way of more jump. But I believe it can also negatively affect accuracy with too much.

[BillK]

I was actually thinking the opposite. I was going to remove the magnet, then hollow out the bolt, then drill and tap it for the new bolt handle location to fit a steel breech.

Bolt handle location is the same for all breeches.  Bolts have three usual configurations.  Standard (OEM)  , Extended probe, hollow/flow through.
http://mellonair.myfreesites.net/index.php?p=1_7_Crosman-Bolts

[39M]

Bolt handle location is the same for all breeches.  Bolts have three usual configurations.  Standard (OEM)  , Extended probe, hollow/flow through.
http://mellonair.myfreesites.net/index.php?p=1_7_Crosman-Bolts

You mean, bolt handle location is the same for all Phase 3 bolts?

I'm starting with a Phase 2 bolt, thus the need to remove the magnet hollow it out and drill and tap for new bolt handle.

Here's a picture of it.

[BillK]

I didn't realize that you were talking about a phase 2 bolt.  Seems the O-ring is larger that the phase 3 bolts use & so is the breech.  I know I couldn't drill the bolt straight for that distance.
Are you modding an older 1377" or a newer one?

[39M]

I didn't realize that you were talking about a phase 2 bolt.  Seems the O-ring is larger that the phase 3 bolts use & so is the breech.  I know I couldn't drill the bolt straight for that distance.
Are you modding an older 1377" or a newer one?

Well Bill, right now I'm in a state of indecision.

I have both a mid-90's phase 2 in need of a rebuild, and a last years model that I got new about a month ago.

One of them is going to be a rifle with about an 18" barrel in either a .177 or .22 caliber. I'm now leaning towards making the phase 2 as a custom pistol configuration with it's original breech. But I'd still like to mod it for power by removing the magnet and hollowing the bolt, as well as a couple other home mods. But not sure it'll work though.

I guess whichever one becomes a rifle will get a steel breech and some kind of new high flow bolt.

[BillK]

IMHO a pistol that is used with open sights doesn't need too much in power upgrades as you probably won't hit anything so far away that the OEM power won't kill it.   Just a cleaning, deburing, new seals, trigger work should really do it.
That being said I would mod the newer gun into a carbine with the power mods & steel breech, barrel etc.

[39M]

IMHO a pistol that is used with open sights doesn't need too much in power upgrades as you probably won't hit anything so far away that the OEM power won't kill it.   Just a cleaning, deburing, new seals, trigger work should really do it.
That being said I would mod the newer gun into a carbine with the power mods & steel breech, barrel etc.

I decided to keep the new one as a pistol for a couple of reasons. First of all, it's really powerful as it is. Moreso than the average 1377 I believe, and I just can't convince myself to take off the breech or take the valve out because it just seems so well sealed and efficient.
And the old phase 2's barrel is pretty scarred up, as well as the tube having a couple of marks on it. So instead rebluing or polishing it out to silver, I decided it would be better off with a new barrel. And then paint the tube, barrel, and grip frame to match. I have some satin black Krylon dual superbond that should look real nice.

I went ahead and tore down the old one to start prepping it for the conversion, and robbed the front sight and the barrel channel off of it and stuck them on the new one to tighten it up a bit. Shoots better than ever now.

[DRAGON64]

I'm liking my pumpers more than my 22xx builds these days.  Because of the difficulties I've had with Crosman's .177 barrels I think my next build may be a 1320.

The LW barrels are just short of 24" so I could get two 11.5" tubes out of one of their blanks. 

With the volume reduction and spring mods they should really smoke.  Solid hammer and power adjuster,  1701P trigger group and enough off the end for a small effective ldc.  Maybe some Woods n Water furniture. ..........

The Lothar Walther barrels are choked on one end.  If you split the barrel to supply two builds, only one of those builds will benefit from 'choked' accuracy.

[beerhippy]

The Lothar Walther barrels are choked on one end.  If you split the barrel to supply two builds, only one of those builds will benefit from 'choked' accuracy.

As long as you get a nice crown on it the unchoked half should still be a tack driver.