Breaches and Probles

[CraigH]

The 2240 steel breech arrived from Crosman today and it is very nice indeed in machining and finish.  It comes with a bolt and I recall reading the original bolt does not work with the steel breech, but at the moment I do not know why.

But the real concern is that I want an extended or hollow probe bolt, and some state that they fit both original plastic breaches and steel breaches.

TIA for any info on this.

[quickster47 †]

The bolt that comes with the 2240 is not a two piece unit, i.e. the bolt handle is pressed and staked to the bolt proper.  However, you can remove the handle by carefully drilling it out.  You can then tap the bolt using an 8-32 tap and use another handle of your choice.

Chareles Mellon makes extended hollow proble bolts as do several other vendors. Check with our very own Davio for one and a good price as well.

Carl

[WyoMan]

^^ What Carl said  - or - you can make an extended probe on the bolt that came with your Crosman breech. Some folks just drill into it and then use a piece of the drill shank. I've never done it but would probably use 3/32" and superglue the shank in the hole...hth

[quickster47 †]

Here is one I found on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-PRECISION-BRASS-HOLLOW-BOLT-PROBE-with-O-ring-22-for-Crosman-2240-etc-/291541480773?hash=item43e139f545:g:vkcAAOSwHnFV0RxO

Carl

[CraigH]

Thanks, WyoMan!

I'm going to start with a hollow probe bolt and make "drill bit" probes on leftover Crosman bolts.

[quickster47 †]

WyoMan is correct in that it is quite easy to make your own custom extended bolt probe.  Here are a few pictures for you to mull over.

The last one is the offerings by GMAC, a company in the United Kingdom that does excellent work.

Carl

[CraigH]

Carl,

It looks like the GMAC hollow probe is longer than the one you used in your probe test and will seat the pellet deeper.  Maybe the one you used goes in farther, i.e., the o-ring is farther forward, but of course the o-ring must always be behind the transfer port.  I will have to educate myself better as to where the various components locate while apart.

I wish I still had my little lathe, but it was getting difficult to see fine work.  But the specs are very much appreciated.  Maybe I will get another lathe.

[quickster47 †]

Craig,

A lot of what I do now requires me to use my lighted OptiVisor, and that's something you get used to when you're approaching 70 head on. 

Anyway, I test all my probes now before using them with a spare barrel turned so I can see the transfer port entrance when I push in a pellet with whatever probe I have.  Works great and allows you to know where the pellet is going.

Carl

[quickster47 †]

Okay, last post on this topic and thread for an hour or so at least. 

Can't remember when I first saw this idea but it was a long time ago.  The guy had made his own extended tip by twisting some stainless wire into a loop and inserting that loop into his OEM bolt.  I decided to use a couple of 1/6" stainless steel 'cotter' keys I had laying around to do the same thing.

I used one brass bolt and one of the newer steel bolts for the testing.  Because I was also making an extended probe I trimmed 0.0625" from the back of the bolt.  Making that cut would allow me to insert some of the longer pellets when I cocked the gun.  I chucked up the bolts in my lathe and drilled a 0.0625" (1/16") hole .5" deep in each bolt.  I cut the 'cotter' keys to the correct length and then using one of my spare, spare, spare plastic breeches for an alignment tool I used thick cyanoacrylate glue so I would have time to position the tip before the glue dried.  You can see in the pictures how they turned out.

Carl

[CraigH]

You have them well aligned and symmetrical to seat the pellet evenly.

And I will not ask any questions for the rest of the day.   8^)

[Mitch]

Just order the bolt and handle for the 2300s , It is an extended nickel plated bolt with a matching handle, And it is under $20
2300-123 bolt assbly