Wood Grips

[MrTim]

I know this is a wood working question, But dose anyone have tips on getting a good even stain color on  wood (Walnut) grips.    

[arkmaker †]

Try this...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/heres-a-secret-to-a-better-wood-finish-on-walnut/&ved=2ahUKEwja3prvuqDrAhUPwVkKHdkACpoQFjAPegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw39GLdxck8gqyxacopXnxKK

[MrTim]

Thanks arkmaker was looking for a little more personal experience with these wood grips. I see lots of google images with beautiful finishes.

[arkmaker †]

Practice makes perfect! I do the best I can and when it is looking good enough to me, I stop. There have been a couple of bungles along the way and had to refinish again. Mostly, I have just been refinishing stocks. Working on an old Crosman 140 stock now, but it just took a back seat to painting the trim and shutters on my house. Low heat and humidity this week made me shift focus.

Don't have much experience with walnut. Been decades since I've really worked with it. I do recommend a you tube search. They have anything you would ever want to learn about. Seems everyone wants to be an internet star 😉

[MrTim]

Thanks again, A home owners work is never done, enjoy .

[wingnuts]

I know this is a wood working question, But dose anyone have tips on getting a good even stain color on  wood (Walnut) grips.

I use a wood conditioner from minwax it makes for a nice even stain by "presoaking" the open grain areas the stain is thus more evenly absorbed across the piece.

[MrTim]

Thanks Wingnuts.  The obsession continues

[MrMike]

I have built custom wood furniture and cabinets professionally or as a hobby for over 40 years. I just refinished a couple of sets of walnut grips for a friend earlier this week. He also wanted me to change the grip profile slightly to better accommodate the size of his smaller hands for a better grip.

I started by using a wood rasp, wood files and 120 grit sand paper to change the profile as needed. I hand sanded to blend in the re-profiled areas and to remove the old finish starting with 150 grit, then 180 grit, then 220 grit, and finally 320 grit sandpaper. I then wiped the grips thoroughly with lacquer thinner to remove any traces of skin oils and embedded sanding dust. I applied oil based Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner and let it penetrate for 10 minutes before wiping off any excess with a lint free cloth. I let the grips dry for another 30 minutes so that I could gently sand the grips with 400 grit paper to remove any raised grain. Next I did a good going over with a tack cloth to remove any grit or sanding dust before staining the wood.

The stain that I use is Minwax Oil Base stain. Make sure that you stir it extra well and to get all of the pigment off of the bottom of the can in suspension. For small items like pistol grips I usually just immerse the item in the stain can for 10–20 minutes with the lid securely on and occasionally rolling the can on its side to keep the color uniform. For larger pieces such as a rifle stock I use a STAIN grade brush to apply the stain. Stir the stain frequently to keep the pigment in suspension. Use long even stokes with the brush keeping a "wet" edge. After the stain bath or after brushing the stain on, wipe the excess stain off with a lint free cloth. I hang the items up to dry overnight using bent paper clips stuck though the screw holes.

The top coat is a personal preference. You can choose Polyurethane, Lacquer, Varnish, or paste furniture finishing wax. They all will perform equally well and will protect your project. My preference for rifle stocks and pistol grips is spray gloss lacquer from Minwax. Lacquer dries quickly and forms a hard finish. Most blemishes like runs or scratches can easily be corrected by using fine sandpaper or steel wool. I highly recommend that you only use oil based products for best results what ever the brand. My experience with water borne stains and finishes is that they appear "milky", not crisp and clean and without depth.

Once more I very lightly sanded the grips with 400 grit sand paper and wiped them down with a tack cloth. Remember that all pieces of wood have 6 sides and you need to seal them all to prevent moisture absorption. I laid the grips face down and applied 2 moderate coats of spray lacquer to the back side. I let them dry for 2 hours before I turn them over to finish the face/front side.

I placed the grips face side up on short pieces of 1" PVC pipe 2" tall. Larger pieces like a rifle stock are hung with wire from the ceiling joists. I apply between 8-10 light coats of lacquer to all 4 edges and the face allowing 10 minutes to dry between coats. The lacquer is allowed to dry completely overnight before the last finish step.

The last thing that I do that really brings out the beauty of the wood and make the finish smooth as glass is to use grade #0000 steel wool and Minwax Finishing Paste Wax to remove the microscopic highs and fills the lows in the lacquer finish. The steel wool lubricated by the paste wax removes the glossy finish creating a satin finish and levels the surface. Use a microfiber cloth to remove excess wax and to bring out the wood's deep hand rubbed look that will develop a wonderful patina in the years to come. Apply light coats of wax occasionally to maintain a showcase look.

A very unique finish for pistol grips is a furniture grade paste wax as the top coat over the stained wood. The paste wax finish is dull flatter finish that shows the grain quite well. The feel of the grip is very positive and solid with no slipperiness. Just apply the paste wax with grade #0000 steel wool and buff the excess off with a microfiber cloth. Touch up any time with a bit of wax to keep a fresh look. If you do not apply any more wax in the future, the natural skin oils on your hand will slowly penetrate the wood forming your natural hand print on the grips. I keep my used microfiber wax cloths to dust off my guns.

[KevinP]

MrMike, excellent directions ....

I have refinished many pianos in basically the same way ....
* Just takes a bit longer 

[MrTim]

Thanks  MrMike I have decided to enjoy the natural beauty of the walnut and have just finished with clear satin rubbing poly. I will try you advise on future wood working projects. Thanks again for your reply.  Tim

[MrTim]

This started life as a 2240XL a couple hundred $ and 6 coats of poly latter.....

[Brutuz]

Looking super great 

[arkmaker †]

Love the fore-arm. Looks great!

[BillK]

Brass & wood....   Doesn't get any better......