Slick 2240 trigger solution, but maybe there's a more aesthetic way to do it...

[Drdan]

Has anyone tried this mod?  It's a pretty ingenious solution to preload the sear, but is it really necessary to drill a hole, add a screw and nut, and apply Loctite to keep the threads from slipping?  How about precisely creating a circular "bed" perhaps 1.0-1.5mm deep for a .22 casing or a reduced length Clovis pin on the inner part of the grip frame?  JB Weld is super duper strong stuff, and after it dries the spring could easily be inserted for a nice preload?  I doubt the JB Weld would fail, and if anything would outlast this solution. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMdKYzXzLbg&t=283s

[CraigH]

I would prefer the buildup with JB Weld to a screw (or screw hole) where the middle finger rests.

I don't think any of my triggers have that much play.   Will have to look later.

Many .22 RF casings have a stamp in the center of the head.   I don't know if the brass is thick enough to polish out the stamping.

[Drdan]

Most .22 rimfire headstamps are large but not all...  A .22 ammo collector could give you the name of the ones which are minimal or non existent.  There would be several strong and aesthetic ways to do this. 

[Drdan]

I think it would be very effective...  Maybe someone else will chime in with another idea.   

[Drdan]

Or...

[Drdan]

Using the tapped post for the grip screw, "curve" the end of a thin stainless tube on a grinding wheel.  It you're meticulous it will wrap nicely around the post.  Cut an exact length of a suitably tensioned stainless steel compression spring, and with a Q-Tip place an ample amount of JB Weld at the curved area and inside the tube.  Secure the tube and spring with small strips of duct (aka duck) tape, and then form a nice ridge of the JB Weld all around the circumference of the tube.  Wait a few hours and voilà; that tube is not going anywhere soon.   

[Drdan]

Does anyone have a very clear image of an OEM 2300S grip frame with the trigger cover removed showing the trigger group? 

The image below is not it of course but something this clear would be nice...

[Drdan]

...

[Drdan]

...

[Drdan]

A small piece like this could hold the calibrated compression spring.  JB Weld applied aroung the post would secure it in an exact position.

[CraigH]

It appears this has become quite a lot of modification at a single location of interest.   

All good stuff.   

[JMJinNC]

You might be able to get a torsion spring around the screw boss, and apply some spring force that way. McMaster-Carr will carry some small ones that will work.

JMJ

[Drdan]

Excellent input JMJinNC!  Did you modify your 2300S trigger group in any way?

My original proposed solution to the sear pre-loader adds a magnitude of complexity to something that can be simplified.  Occam's Razor would tell us that the simplest solution is probably the best... 

I don't have the gun in my hands, but can clearly see from the first image below that a band of sorts soldered to a piece of tubing containing a spring cannot be fitted around the post.  You can easily take a piece of brass or stainless tubing, and contour the bottom so it is perfectly fitted to the bottom part of the inner grip frame.  JB Weld is incredible strong stuff, so with a Q-Tip can place a bead of the epoxy  on the tube piece and placed on the wall of the grip place.  A previously measured compression spring could then be inserted after about 12 hours.  To assure that everything works well, you can polish the cut part of the spring so that the area of the spring that contacts the trigger is always smooth.

As an alternative you could of course place a piece of tubing around the circular post, but mechanically a vertical presentation of the spring to the trigger may be best, and it would be aesthetically cleaner.

[JMJinNC]

Excellent input JMJinNC!  Did you modify your 2300S trigger group in any way?

I run the 1701P trigger in my 3 guns.

In the above photo, just drilling and tapping that area allows you to put in a set screw to hold the spring in position. You can make it long enough to act as an internal guide to keep the spring aligned with the trigger. Maybe even slip a piece of plastic tubing over it to reduce friction.

Good luck with the modifications.

JMJ

[Drdan]

I run the 1701P trigger in my 3 guns.

In the above photo, just drilling and tapping that area allows you to put in a set screw to hold the spring in position. You can make it long enough to act as an internal guide to keep the spring aligned with the trigger. Maybe even slip a piece of plastic tubing over it to reduce friction.

Good luck with the modifications.

JMJ

Thanks JMJinNC.  I'm not sure if Mr. Teun Meen is aware of these specific Crosman mods, so I'm keeping him informed, and I'll let him do what he feels is best suited for the gun.  He let me know that he has a lot of experience inmaking o.k. triggers excellent.  He started on my pistol today...