2240 only a day old and I've already had bits off it!

[Igotknobblies]

Hi all,
Well I got the screwdriver and allen keys out.........
Straight out of the packet, I wasn't pleased with the build quality. Barrel out of alignment with the cylinder, foresight canted on end of barrel and not tight enough to withstand minor knocks and obviously affecting point of aim. Trigger all 'bitty' but power quite good.
So I took the grips off to polish rear face of the sear and waterproof grease on trigger and sear hinge points. Much smoother. I put a less powerful spring under the sear so 'pull off' is much less but not dangerously low. Finally I turned and shaped a couple of scope mounts that are split at the top and grip the barrel when you tighten the actual scope mounts. I've had this little 2x BSA red dot sight for ages thinking what to put it on. Its ideal and as I was making 'bespoke' mounts for it, I managed to keep the centre line as low as possible in relation to the bore centre. My only trouble now is to see if I can carefully remove the objective lense and adjust it so the parallax suiting 15yards rather than about 30 as it was probably aimed at the air rifle market. It is held in by a threaded ring so I think I'm on the right track. I've just put a few shots over the Chrony and its knocking out 380fps with 16 grain pellets. Thats 5.13 ft/lb so I have a bit of room for tuning. (max 6 ft/lb allowed in UK). What do you suggest? I'd like to put a steel breech block and maybe the hollow loading probe. I suppose that'll raise the energy a bit and make the gun a bit more stable. However, as the scope is mounted directly to the barrel, I suppose it won't make the gun any more accurate, just a bit more 'blingy'.
Not sure about attaching photos so here goes.   
Regards,
IGK

[Igotknobblies]

Yeah, the photo worked. 
Cheerio
IGK

[woody67]

F

[Igotknobblies]

Why a higher scope? I reckon that if I'm ratting (after all, thats what I bought it for as having chicken feed around seems to attract them), most of the shots will be between 5 and 15 yards. The closer, the more 'hold under' I'll have to make. If point of aim is set at 15 yards and my bore to sight centre distance is 1 3/8" then a 10 yard rat would need about 1/2" hold under. beyond 15 yards I'll need hold over, and a stock to steady my aim, something I don't want as I already have an old Haenel air rifle for the long shots. Another thing that is buggin me is that I have hands like a gorilla's. The trigger wants to be where the front of the trigger guard is! I can make one that sits forward by about 3/8" but no further or I won't get my finger in! The alternative is to build a complete new trigger housing. Has anyone done this? Not beyond me but I'm up for any suggestions. Photo attached. Dog is asleep, not dead! (I like to introduce them to shooting young!) And yes I know, I do have dry skin!
Cheers for the quick reply.
IGK

[woody67]

I see your point.... I always prefer to shoot at long distances, and when I use a low mounted scope I end up having accuracy issues.

Maybe you could have someone cut a super wide trigger for you. You could cut off the ring around the trigger, and install one that sticks out as far as you want it to.

Here's sort of what my idea is:

[1377x]

i thought the scope is supposed to be as close to the barrel as possible
sounds like your handy with metal.make your own breech,get a crosman steel breech or some aftermarket breech.
while you are at it get a metal barrel band.it should be better than the plastic one.
a trigger housing would be a cool site to see.there are maybe a couple different ones available,since you can make your own that would be your best bet,tailored for you.there are some straight triggers out there but again make your own then its for you
great pic you killed the dog with a stock 2240

[JEBert]

Larger grips will put that trigger where you want it but you may have to carve them yourself or visit a custom grip maker to get them right.  For all I know, a good grip maker might be able to get them right from the picture you posted.
Lower scope mounting will reduce the amount of holdover at shorter distances and should have a wider point-blank range where, depending on the size and range of the target, you might be able to disregard hold-over or hold-under.  However, a steadier hold like the taco hold would require the scope to be mounted high enough for your fingers to not block the view through the scope or you will have to wrap your hand around the barrel and the scope.  It makes for some accurate target shooting but if you shoot at different distances you have to figure out the hold-over and hold-under for the shots taken at distances different from your zero.
Cheers,
Jerry

[Viking]

Hi all,
Well I got the screwdriver and allen keys out.........
Straight out of the packet, I wasn't pleased with the build quality.

Excuse me for smiling, but you basically made an accurate description of a 2240.
If you're doing to hunt rats, why not a 10 shoot repeater breech like the BNM.
http://bnm111.hpage.com/

[0351_Vet]

Nice looking Labrador.......        

[NorthStaR]

I was always told and agree with 1377x that you are meant to have the barrel and scope as close to each other as possible.
Gives the most accurate line. The only thing better would be to have the scope inside the barrel, but that's just daft. A reverse persicope?


How about a large custom trigger shoe? (although the guard may be an issue depending how large).


FWIW; 22xx barrel bands are black coated metal  Or at least all mine are & from stock, same for the 2250b version.

[Igotknobblies]

Hey now, the replacement grip sounds a good idea. I have plenty of walnut laying around. Should be able to pull my palm further to the rear with a 'one piece' and with the trigger pushed forward a bit should make for a straighter trigger finger 'a la clay shooter'.
Cheers,
IGK