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Need some tips for installing parts on 1377

Started by byhsu, April 26, 2012, 07:45:35 PM

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byhsu

OK, so i got all the parts already and this weekend I will have time to put it together.

What are some things I will need to have before I begin? 

Parts I will be installing:

Mellon FP Valve & Piston
Long Probe bolt
Discovery hammer spring
1399 Shoulder stock
Steel Breech

Is is just a matter of disassembling and putting things together?  Do I need to lube the Valve and piston when i install it?  Will WD40 be OK to use?


I also have a barrel band and a long barrel, but i will not be installing them as the barrel is at my friends place getting ready to be chop down from 24" to 16.5"

Thanks

1377x

dont use wd 40
go to your local auto parts store and get some 30wt non detergent motor oil
crosshairs has a video of 1377 disassembly
try a search from the main board page for 1377 disassembly it will pop up
closed mouths dont get fed

byhsu

Quote from: 1377x on April 26, 2012, 08:08:36 PM

go to your local auto parts store and get some 30wt non detergent motor oil


are you referring to 0-30W motor oil?

Thanks


1377x

closed mouths dont get fed

JEBert

#5
Be sure to clean up any burrs in the tube so that none of the new o-rings get nicked during installation.  See picture below.  I believe this is Gil Irwin's pic.
X2 on the  Straight 30 Wt NON-detergent motor oil, not 5-30 or 10-30 wt.  Just use a drop on each o-ring before putting the o-ring in its groove and a drop or two on the valve, piston, and in the tube then spread it with your fingers before installation.
If you didn't order one, make yourself a solid pump pin and install that too.  If you don't have a lathe, chuck a piece of 3/16" solid brass or mild steel rod into your electric drill. Use a hacksaw blade to cut two grooves in it so that the grooves are just outside of the tube when it is installed and hold it in place with some small o-rings or E-clips from Lowes or Home Depot.  Spin it in the drill and polish it with some fine wed-or-dry sandpaper, then if it is steel, use some cold-blue on it.  It will make installation and adjustment of the flat-top valve and piston plus future valve and/or piston work much easier.  See Charlie Mellon's page on solid pin installation.  You don't have to make a bushing or a spacer, just drill out your tube to 3/16" and don't forget to de-burr the holes.
http://mellonair.myfreesites.net/index.php?p=1_12_Solid-Pins
Pay attention to the orientation of the transfer port when taking it apart and putting it back together.  Take the gasket out before removing the valve and the long end of the port goes up into the breech and barrel.  You may want to use a top seal of some sort here.
Also, X2 on watching Mikes videos!  Will take the place of LOTS of typing.
Edited: to add second pic.  It is the one I intended to put up the first time.
Cheers,
Jerry
NRA Life Member
USAF Veteran 1973-1977 (43151E) Sgt (E-4)


byhsu

Quote from: JEBert on April 26, 2012, 08:44:36 PM

X2 on the  Straight 30 Wt NON-detergent motor oil, not 5-30 or 10-30 wt.  Just use a drop on each o-ring before putting the o-ring in its groove and a drop or two on the valve, piston, and in the tube then spread it with your fingers before installation.


any other alternatives?  that is a lot of oil to buy for just a few drops.  I think i have 0-30w, would that be considered straight 30 Wt?  sorry, dont know much about engine oil.  how about the grease that goes on the bicycle chains?

Crosshairs

As long as it's non detergent you should be ok. Do you have pellgun oil this is the best oil to use.
                                      Mike  8)
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Crosman_Pellgunoil/222
Treat people the way you want to be treated, Life will be so much better !!!

byhsu

what is pellgun oil?  or do you mean oil for my pellet rifles?  I think I have that.


Crosshairs

Quote from: byhsu on April 26, 2012, 11:26:36 PM
what is pellgun oil?  or do you mean oil for my pellet rifles?  I think I have that.
Look at the link i put there for you. Pellgun is a special oil for air guns and works great on all your seals and o-rings lubes and keeps everything from getting dryed out.
                         Mike
Treat people the way you want to be treated, Life will be so much better !!!

byhsu

thanks, i will try to get some of that (Pellgun) if i can find it at walmart if not then 30 WT straight oil it is.

JEBert

The only store I have been able to find Pellgun oil is Bass Pro and they want $6 for it.  I got one cheaper online but a quart of 30 wt non-detergent from Walmart should last a lifetime in your airguns and it sure beats $3 plus shipping for 1/4th of an ounce.  If you want it red, add a little transmission fluid to it.
Cheers,
Jerry
NRA Life Member
USAF Veteran 1973-1977 (43151E) Sgt (E-4)



byhsu

Quote from: JEBert on April 26, 2012, 08:44:36 PM
Be sure to clean up any burrs in the tube so that none of the new o-rings get nicked during installation.  See picture below.  I believe this is Gil Irwin's pic.
X2 on the  Straight 30 Wt NON-detergent motor oil, not 5-30 or 10-30 wt.  Just use a drop on each o-ring before putting the o-ring in its groove and a drop or two on the valve, piston, and in the tube then spread it with your fingers before installation.
If you didn't order one, make yourself a solid pump pin and install that too.  If you don't have a lathe, chuck a piece of 3/16" solid brass or mild steel rod into your electric drill. Use a hacksaw blade to cut two grooves in it so that the grooves are just outside of the tube when it is installed and hold it in place with some small o-rings or E-clips from Lowes or Home Depot.  Spin it in the drill and polish it with some fine wed-or-dry sandpaper, then if it is steel, use some cold-blue on it.  It will make installation and adjustment of the flat-top valve and piston plus future valve and/or piston work much easier.  See Charlie Mellon's page on solid pin installation.  You don't have to make a bushing or a spacer, just drill out your tube to 3/16" and don't forget to de-burr the holes.
http://mellonair.myfreesites.net/index.php?p=1_12_Solid-Pins
Pay attention to the orientation of the transfer port when taking it apart and putting it back together.  Take the gasket out before removing the valve and the long end of the port goes up into the breech and barrel.  You may want to use a top seal of some sort here.
Also, X2 on watching Mikes videos!  Will take the place of LOTS of typing.
Edited: to add second pic.  It is the one I intended to put up the first time.
Cheers,

Thank You JBert, good information.  I will certainly take care of the burs.  Not sure about doing the pin myself.