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my new Crosman cheek riser

Started by asset smith, April 30, 2012, 04:05:32 AM

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Nightsniper52

In looking for the real Part Number for the New Style Forearm I found it.

It is 76SB-010 and the Part Number for the Stock is 760SB-127

Hope this helps and you should confirm that it is Black New Style!!!

Freezid

Wohw! That looks amazing! Can you tell me how you connected it to your stock?

asset smith

Quote from: Freezid on May 04, 2012, 11:29:03 PM
Wohw! That looks amazing! Can you tell me how you connected it to your stock?

the cheek rest has a small metal pipe attached to the underside of it. the pipe is bolted into the top of the stock. the only hard part was cutting the cheek rest out of the 760 stock without screwing up the outline edge.
"The dirty dozen for the price of one."

1377x

Quote from: asset smith on May 10, 2012, 03:08:09 AM
the cheek rest has a small metal pipe attached to the underside of it. the pipe is bolted into the top of the stock. the only hard part was cutting the cheek rest out of the 760 stock without screwing up the outline edge.
what did you use to cut the cheeck rest from the stock?jig saw, dremel, hacksaw ???
closed mouths dont get fed

asset smith

Quote from: 1377x on May 10, 2012, 05:47:32 AM
what did you use to cut the cheeck rest from the stock?jig saw, dremel, hacksaw ???

i ruff cut the outline with a hacksaw being careful to save the butt pad for a later project. then i used a belt sander to VERY CAREFULLY  :o  shape the edges. very spooky process on account of if you go over the lines its time to throw it in the trash and start over  :(
"The dirty dozen for the price of one."

asset smith

this is as detailed as i can be about the mounting of the cheekrest (as per request) :

this is exactly what i did. first i took an 1/2 " aluminum pipe ( i think it was from a curtin rod) and first drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 3" apart. then i drilled the top side of the holes out to 1/4" (so the bolt heads would clear the top and not the bottom) then drilled out the top of the stock to match the holes in the pipe. i drilled the holes in the stock to be a little bigger than the bolts. i then placed the bolts in the oversized holes and plastic welded them into the holes to be a perfect fit(i could have just used a tap but i did'nt want to bugger up my taps on the plastic). then i backed out the bolts and mounted the 1/2" pipe to the stock. then i drilled a few more random holes in the pipe and scored the underside of the cheek rest with the probe from the plastic welder. then i made sure i knew where the bolt holes where that attach the pipe and made note( this will be important later). next i plastic welded the underside of the cheekrest and while the weld was still hot i forced it down over the pipe and let the molten plastic oose into the holes in the pipe and when it cooled off .......BINGO done. to remove it i would use the measurement of where the mounting holes in the pipe are and drill 2 1/4" through the cheek rest over the correct spots to access the mounting bolts. upon removal there would then be the 2 1/4" holes in the cheek rest and it could be remounted. i dont plan on removing it, i will probly cast a mold of it to make reproductions. so there it is the cat is out of the bag. a plastic welder is not cheap and a little hard to find but i suppose JB weld could be used in its stead. hope that helps you guys.
"The dirty dozen for the price of one."

1377x

that helps a lot
thanks!
jb weld probably wont cut it but instant plastic weld epoxy probably will!
if you make reproductions they will sell!!!
closed mouths dont get fed

asset smith

Quote from: 1377x on May 10, 2012, 03:36:20 PM
that helps a lot
thanks!
jb weld probably wont cut it but instant plastic weld epoxy probably will!
if you make reproductions they will sell!!!
thats sounds like it would work. i did'nt think JB weld would do it either, and i have a plastic welder from my days as a body tech.i have'nt used the instant plastic weld epoxy before,  but from the sound of it, it might be worth a try for those without access to a plastic welder. i was going to make another prototype to use as a cast cause i dont want to bugger up the original. but i might have to buy yet another complete 760 for the parts as something tells me Crosman is running low on butt stocks and forearms  ;)
"The dirty dozen for the price of one."

1377x

Quote from: asset smith on May 10, 2012, 04:47:17 PM
thats sounds like it would work. i did'nt think JB weld would do it either, and i have a plastic welder from my days as a body tech.i have'nt used the instant plastic weld epoxy before,  but from the sound of it, it might be worth a try for those without access to a plastic welder. i was going to make another prototype to use as a cast cause i dont want to bugger up the original. but i might have to buy yet another complete 760 for the parts as something tells me Crosman is running low on butt stocks and forearms  ;)
i can vouch for the instant plastic weld epoxy.i have some menards brand i used it to fix headlight assemblies on cars,used it to fix a vaccuum cleaner,im a heavy guy and i stood on the part i fixed it would not break,fixed some subwoofers with it the weld out lasted the woofers.good prep is the key   
closed mouths dont get fed