need some help sighting in 1377 w/ scope

[sbcrockett]

I've read a few threads and talked to a couple hunting guys at work, but I still have a sighting-in-scope question for you guys.

I just received and installed the Crosman steel on my 1377 today. It really tightened up the feel, especially with the BSA 2x20 scope mounted on it. When I went to sight it in, i started in my basement at 5m. I was about 3 inches low and an inch and a half to the right. I made the adjustments in 10 click increments, and eventually stopped at 60 clicks up and 30 left. It did make a difference, but I was still a couple inches low. Before going any further, I wanted to see how things were with a little further distance, so I took my position at the bathroom window and aimed for the old 4x4 post by the patio. I paced it out at about 45ft, so about 15m.

Well, I was within a quarter inch to the right and elevation was there. since I plan on using this gun for a little light pesting as well as some plinking in the basement, I was wondering, how do I make adjustments to be accurate with shorter distances without messing with my expected pesting distance? It doesn't make sense, I would have thought that I'd be even lower at a greater distance, but instead it was the opposite.

Maybe I just need to put some more lead through the gun and get setup at a true bench rest? Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated by this middle aged novice!

[breakfastchef]

I suppose you should choose to zero in at a distance somewhere between the longest distance and shortest distance you plan to shoot. The rest is practice and experience. If the scope does not have a mil-dot reticle, you will have to shoot at various distances to learn the holdover/holdunder for a specific shot.

[1377x]

mil-dots do come in handy for this sort of thing
when i sight in at 8yds i do it a little low so im hitting the bottom of the bulls eye.im good out to 25yds

[Crosshairs]

Another thing you can try is to use only 4 or 5 pumps for inside and 10 pumps for the longer distance. Also if your scope has mil dots you can use them for different distances.
                               Mike 

[breakfastchef]

mil-dots do come in handy for this sort of thing
when i sight in at 8yds i do it a little low so im hitting the bottom of the bulls eye.im good out to 25yds

Your post got me thinking that using Hawke Chairgun Pro to plot the shot trajectory will show the two impact points at which the scope would be zeroed. For example, a specific setup of velocity and pellet might show a point of impact at 10 yards and 30 yards. This information would really help you figure out the holdover/holdunder much easier if you know the distance you are shooting and the approximate kill zone.

[sbcrockett]

thanks for the quick responses and ideas, guys. I don't have mil-dots w/ this scope, something I'll get on my next scope, but I hear ya when you say it's about experience and knowing what holdover/under to use.

I was shooting inside with 5 pumps like you said Mike, and 10 pumps outside. With 10 pumps inside, I was a little closer to the bullseye, but I also shot through my blanket backdrop and took a chunk out of my basement wall! Thankfully, I didn't hit the sewer pipe that was mere inches away! You guys should have seen the mangled pellet...

I think I'll choose a distance in between and just learn my gun a little more. Sure appreciate the help!

[JEBert]

This is why some of us like to keep the lowest rings possible that still allow the bell to miss the breech or barrel.  The pellet starts out closer to the line of sight and you can learn the distances that it crosses the line-of-sight easier and maybe not have it climb as much higher in between as it would have with taller rings.  It comes out to less trajectory arc in the closer ranges.
Yea, I love my BugBusters' mil-dots but the thick reticles don't help much.
Cheers,

[sbcrockett]

you all probably heard me just have an "a-haaaa" moment! Thanks JEBert, I totally spaced on the height of the rings and the fixed paralax (50yds, according to the manufacturer) on this scope.

Oh well, I guess I'll just have to use this scope primarily for varmint shooting at 15yds plus! 

[RC1947]

You can adjust the factory parallax setting on pretty much any scope.  So, during the Winter if you'll be shooting at a fixed distance indoors, you can adjust the objective lens to be in perfect focus. RC

[sbcrockett]

thanks RC, now that you mention it, the reticles were a little fuzzy at 5m indoors. I just thought it was my eyes.

but for adjusting the parallax, I don't see any set screw or way to turn the objective end. there is a knurled knob on the eyepiece end that looks like it can be adjusted, but I thought that was just for reticle focus.

sorry for my lack of knowledge. and thanks for the schooling.

[RC1947]

Loosen the front (objective) lens by turning the shrouded section ccw.  Beneath that you'll see a threaded portion with square notches 180* from each other.  That's the lens adjustment.  To bring the parallax closer, adjust the lens out (ccw), and when the focus is crisp and clear, hold the threaded portion you just adjusted with a finger pressed against it, and tighten the lock.  I've done this to all the, so-called, fixed parallax scopes, and it does no harm. RC

[BDS]

+1 to RC's comments, I've done it to $500 Leupolds and $50 Simmons, you can even use a small screwdriver (carefuly) in the notches to chase the lok-ring (tap-tap) with a small ball peen to loosen or tighten it. 

[sbcrockett]

cool. thanks again RC. while you were responding, I came across this:  http://fuzzylimey.net/projects/parallax.html

but you made it sound easier! 

[RC1947]

Glad I could help.  Happy shooting, RC