Sick day - me and the 1377 carbine

[JMJinNC]

My 1377 carbine was losing pressure, and a quick test with the Combro chronograph confirmed velocity had dropped off from 705 fps to about 640 fps or so, for immediate shots.

Well I've been battling a cold for days and work slowed down enough to allow me a sick day, so I took yesterday off. Time to mend myself and the carbine. Of course EVERYTHING has to come off to get to the valve...



Once I got to the valve out (which needed to by tapped out), I knew why I was losing pressure:



Luckily I had a spare valve which I flat-topped, cleaned, ported, and installed new o-rings in the day before. While I had the gun apart I replaced my Brutuz seal and polished the sear/hammer interface (which was a bit rough). Chronographed it at 708 fps, and it was placing pellets in a dime-sized cloverleaf at 26 yards. 50 yard shots were quarter-sized.

I'm guessing the valve corrosion started during a long target session on a very hot & humid day a couple months ago.

JMJ

[markasaurus]

What did the inside of the valve look like?

[breakfastchef]

The internals look clean. Interesting that only the face of the valve was corroded. Was the valve o-ring compromised? The valve is certainly reuseable, though.

[JMJinNC]

The pump side of the valve had some corrosion inside. The transfer port side looked very clean, except for the a bit of corrosion on the exterior near around the valve-shaft hole.

Since I'll have to clean this one up, I'll port it at the same time. It was a Mellon valve, so I thought it was ported, but it wasn't.

JMJ

[chongman]

Would treating the valve with EEZOX help?

[JMJinNC]

Luckily the valve cleaned up nicely with some #0000 steel wool and some 400 grit sandpaper for the valve face. I ported it with the Dremel and buffed the insides and valve seats.

Crosman was thinking ahead by making the valve stem the same size as a Dremel tool shaft. I chucked the valve stem in the Dremel and just spun it against some sandpaper to smooth out the shape, making it more bullet-shaped. No lathe needed.

I'm glad I had a spare valve, as this needed serious work to resurrect. Nice to have the tools at work, as well as at home.

BTW - I made a replacement Brutuz seal by using an appropriately-sized transfer punch through a piece of old bicycle inner tube, then used scissors to cut out a rubber washer the same diameter as the transfer port OD. Worked like a champ.

JMJ

[1377x]

im experimenting with eezox and seals now
eezox is a synthetic lubricant with excellent corrosion resistant properties.i can personally vouch for that
being a synthetic i believe it wont hurt the o-rings.i did treat my aluminum valve with the eezox a few days ago.if anything was to happen it would have happened by now.im going to check on the valve tomorrow or saturday.if the o-rings are mush or leave a rubbery residue on my fingers then its not good.if the o-rings are intact and no rubbery residue is left on my fingers when touched its good to go
heres a link about a corrosion test done using eezox read the entire article its very informative
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

eezox maybe the savior of the aluminum valve corrosion crisis

[cmj21973]

I'll be pulling the aluminium valve from "Nightmare" this weekend for the same reason.

I'll be test Blue Wonder Armadillo as a corrosion preventative.

[1377x]

I'll be pulling the aluminium valve from "Nightmare" this weekend for the same reason.

I'll be test Blue Wonder Armadillo as a corrosion preventative.

i want to try some of that stuff.after reading the application horror stories i dont know
the eezox is wipe on let set for a couple hours,i go overnight, wipe off excess
this is after i remove any old contaminates