What work did you just do?

[outofthefire]

I thought you got a brown colour from rusting, what do you do to get the blue colour?

[Gippeto]

There are commercial solutions..Laurel Mountain Barrel browning reagent and degreaser (long name huh?) seems to be the most user friendly while producing excellent results.

I did order some, but I'm not the most patient guy...shipping from the US takes ~ 2wks , so I made my own from household stuff.

Solution is equal parts 3% hydrogen peroxide (the stuff you put on cuts) and white vinegar. Pour sea salt into this and stir/add until some crystals remain...saturated solution at room temperature.

Steel MUST be free of oil and grease...acetone seems to be popular, I washed the parts in varsol, wiped with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) and then a quick wipe with a small rag wet down with muriatic acid (~30% HCL...READ the instructions on the bottle...WEAR GLOVES!!! and do it OUTSIDE!)

Attach a piece of degreased steel wire to the part to aid in hanging and handling.

Sand parts along the length to no finer than 320grit.

Wearing clean gloves, apply the solution with a cotton swab...only just wet the surface...you don't want the solution to run or drip. Even strokes the length of the part. Some folks build a browning box, others hang the pieces in the bathroom...you need ~50% humidity for the rust to form in a decent amount of time. I use 1.5-2hrs for a rusting time.

Start low...too high of a humidity will have water droplets form on the piece...this WILL result in pitting.

When the piece is covered in rust (takes faith...been there. ) Transfer it to a CLEAN container and add boiling distilled water. Watch in amazement as the red rust turns black. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so until the rust stops converting. Use the piece of wire to remove the part from the water and blow it dry.

Once dry, let it sit for a minute to cool. The next step is to card off the loose magnetite(that's what it is now) using degreased 0000 steel wool.

Repeat the rusting/boiling/carding cycles until either the part is coloured where you want it, or it won't take any more color.

Heat the part in distilled water one last time. Remove and spray down with WD40 to displace the water. Once cool, oil with gun oil and let it "set" for a couple days.

Done.



Asides and cautions:

It was suggested to me that I might do all the rustings before boiling...have not tried it this way.

Will be doing a barrel that I care something about soon, the bore will be oiled and plugged before the degrease stage...and will remain so until finished.

Would suggest anyone wanting to have a go at this DO so...it's pretty easy IMO, with excellent results. BUT...start with something you don't really care about.

Some time spent googling  rust bluing wouldn not be a bad thing.

Probably best if you use short rusting cycles and lowish humidity until you get a "feel" for the process.


HTH

Al

A couple links...google will have MANY more.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=376334

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31594

[earlp8]

great write up on the process Al.........Earl

[1377x]

thanks taking the time explaining the rust bluing process you use
that hcl acid stuff opened my eyes real big

[WyoMan]

thanks taking the time explaining the rust bluing process you use
that hcl acid stuff opened my eyes real big

might open your sinuses too 

[1377x]

might open your sinuses too 

lmao! prbably should shut the eyes huh?

[quickster47 †]

Gippeto thanks for the information in your great write up.  Still think I'm going to give it a try.  Don't have much to lose.

Carl

[arkmaker †]

Thanks for the write up!

[agninja]

I've developed this habit over the years of picking up random stuff I find while walking around outdoors. Generally I'll collect small rubber or metal pieces, which I feel will have some use later on down the road (even if I'm not sure what it will be used for). Recently I'd found three rubber pieces on three separate occasions. I really wanted to use them for something but didn't know what.  Then after having spent a day at the range shooting my Crosmans, I noticed my cocking finger was mighty sore. Then I realized the bolt knobs that come with the plastic and steel breech are not very ergonomic. I was wondering what I could use to fix that, since I like doing my own mods myself and for as cheap as possible, and then I remembered the rubber bits I'd found just days prior!

Interesting enough, all three of them fit, though the two I used needed to be trimmed and shaped. I was really pleased with the one I put on my 2289, because it fit really snug and actually looks good, on top of making it very comfortable when cocking the bolt. It was apparently a cap of some sort, which lent itself well to being used for essentially that same purpose. The other soft rubber piece I put on my 2240 had to be hollowed out, and it swivels a bit when handling it, but it still stays firmly secured to the bolt and allows for easier and more comfortable cocking. Looks a bit odd, but that's an odd looking pistol anyway. The cost of both mods you might be wondering......$0.00 

[DaveB50]

Very ingenious, now you need to camo paint them.

[quickster47 †]

Super innovative and great job of re-purposing discarded parts.

Carl

[agninja]

Very ingenious, now you need to camo paint them.

Thanks. Thought about trying to paint them, but rubber sometimes doesn't take the paint very well, particularly on parts that will be constantly handled and worn.

[ped]

nice one agninja i'm the same i find allsort that i haven't a clue what i'll use it for ,it's even better if its shiney
ped

[quickster47 †]

Someone mentioned the other day in some post about the web of skin between the thumb and index finger being sore and irritated after a lengthy shooting session.  I too have that problem and have had it for awhile, and it is especially noticeable when you spend a couple of hours shooting targets.

I actually made this mod several months back but decided to post it after reading about the OPs problem.

What I have done is to smooth out the back of the trigger frame so that gripping the frame tight does not irritate that part of my hand where it comes into contact with the back edge of the trigger frame.  It is amazing what a little bit of time spent with a Dremel and a 1/2" sanding disc can accomplish.

In the photos below you can see that I have not yet painted this trigger frame so you can see the work I've done.

Carl

[quickster47 †]

And here is one more picture showing the modified trigger frame and an OEM trigger frame that happens to be on my box stock 2240.

Carl