What work did you just do?

[AS13]

Hi Gippeto:

Ok...Thanks! I haven't seen that area of the gun since I first got Took it down, cleaned it up and put it back together. If I have any leaks or valve issues I'll check it out. So far so good! I'm still working on my first 2000 rounds.

[Davio]

For those interested in trying their hand at hydro dipping, I'll add my $.02 USD (especially since it repeats some of what brother Mark5043 has already said).

Videos to watch:  Indeed, Jim Urbano of K2concepts has the most and best Youtube videos.  I could rattle off a couple of things he says that are more salesman and less helpful, but 99.9% of what he does and says is good stuff.

There are other good videos at the www.Dipwizard.com site.  I have talked to the owner on two occasions and have purchased more than half of my materials from him.  He actually talked me OUT of his kit in the beginning and showed me how to get more for less $.  VERY REFRESHING.  He has most of the graphic films you will see elsewhere and his price incl. shipping is hard to beat.  I have no issues with the quality of his materials.

Materials: You will need the film... activator  (spray cans okay, but I get quarts and use disposable Preval units that are $6 at Lowe's and Home Depot... primer in complementary colors (tan and browns most common)... good automotive clear in gloss and/or matte... masking tape (cheapest kind you can find in 1/2"... plastic tubs that are just a few inches bigger both directions of the largest item you plan to dip in it (I have three different sizes that will do everything BUT a 1077 stock or a BPacker stock)... get a cheap wind up kitchen /egg timer that will do minute increments with ding... latex gloves (you will need several so get at least a dozen... I get the 100 packs)... either get a respirator mask for solvents or dip outside or in garage/shop with fan blowing fumes of activator AWAY from YOU  and towards the egress (Do NOT spray any activator inside as it contains both benzene and Xylene that will cause headaches and will linger many hours)...

Advise of the day (every day) for beginning dippers:  Go easy on the activator.  Most problems are from too much activator. Did I say to go easy on the activator?    Really.

General advisement:  If you have a part or two to dip, then you will pay a very steep price to DIY... likely much more than they are worth.  Also, do not think that it is dip and smile kind of thing.  With scuff, prime, dry, prep tank, cut/tape film, float, activate, dip, rinse, rinse some more, dry, touchup from too much activator ,  spray clear, cure... there are more process steps and time in this process than most others in my shop.  I personally would not even do it if I can not batch a dozen parts or so through all the stages together.  I do other stuff in the drying times, then continue on hours later or next day.  Life is too short for onesies! 

Hope this helps someone. 

DG

[Mark5043]

For those interested in trying their hand at hydro dipping, I'll add my $.02 USD (especially since it repeats some of what brother Mark5043 has already said).

Videos to watch:  Indeed, Jim Urbano of K2concepts has the most and best Youtube videos.  I could rattle off a couple of things he says that are more salesman and less helpful, but 99.9% of what he does and says is good stuff.

There are other good videos at the www.Dipwizard.com site.  I have talked to the owner on two occasions and have purchased more than half of my materials from him.  He actually talked me OUT of his kit in the beginning and showed me how to get more for less $.  VERY REFRESHING.  He has most of the graphic films you will see elsewhere and his price incl. shipping is hard to beat.  I have no issues with the quality of his materials.

Materials: You will need the film... activator  (spray cans okay, but I get quarts and use disposable Preval units that are $6 at Lowe's and Home Depot... primer in complementary colors (tan and browns most common)... good automotive clear in gloss and/or matte... masking tape (cheapest kind you can find in 1/2"... plastic tubs that are just a few inches bigger both directions of the largest item you plan to dip in it (I have three different sizes that will do everything BUT a 1077 stock or a BPacker stock)... get a cheap wind up kitchen /egg timer that will do minute increments with ding... latex gloves (you will need several so get at least a dozen... I get the 100 packs)... either get a respirator mask for solvents or dip outside or in garage/shop with fan blowing fumes of activator AWAY from YOU  and towards the egress (Do NOT spray any activator inside as it contains both benzene and Xylene that will cause headaches and will linger many hours)...

Advise of the day (every day) for beginning dippers:  Go easy on the activator.  Most problems are from too much activator. Did I say to go easy on the activator?    Really.

General advisement:  If you have a part or two to dip, then you will pay a very steep price to DIY... likely much more than they are worth.  Also, do not think that it is dip and smile kind of thing.  With scuff, prime, dry, prep tank, cut/tape film, float, activate, dip, rinse, rinse some more, dry, touchup from too much activator ,  spray clear, cure... there are more process steps and time in this process than most others in my shop.  I personally would not even do it if I can not batch a dozen parts or so through all the stages together.  I do other stuff in the drying times, then continue on hours later or next day.  Life is too short for onesies! 

Hope this helps someone. 

DG

Davio,your spot on brother.   Good points to look at here guys. I get my film from Dipwizard,and get it within three working days.So far it has worked well for me,and the price is right.I pieced my supplies out,and did not purchase a kit,as I already had primers,base coat paint,and clears that are compatible.As far as activator,I'm partial to "Blue Mist" from Hydraphics.

[rangerfredbob]

I've been waiting until I had a picture of what I did, but I've been busy and keep forgetting...

A couple weeks ago I was going to take my Marauder out to the woods with me but didn't know if I would need to recharge and all I have is the foot pump, and not wanting to contaminate things I didn't want anything to get in the quick connect. I have a 3' chunk of 3/8" aluminum rod and a metal lathe so I devised to make a plug. I took the copy calipers (don't know the technical name off the top of my head) and copied the dimensions (didn't feel like getting actual dimensions) until they matched. For a handle I wanted to knurl it but don't have a knurling tool but had the gears set up for 11TPI I think (whatever the left handed threads are for a propane tank), threaded it one direction then the other, leaves an interesting look that I kind of like, and I have ideas on modifying that idea...

[BigErn]

 

[KevinP]

Very handsome !!!   

[Tater]

That looks great Big E. Nice pictures of it too.

[chongman]

Very nice Ernesto, I like the hole pattern 

[breakfastchef]

Quite an excellent job! I know how difficult it is to obtain that mirror finish on a trigger.

[bgmcgee]

Sweet trigger Big E .That one took some work that's for sure.

[targettgii]

You put a lot of time into that trigger and it shows Ern well done .

[Drummond]

Nice, BigErn!!

[Mark5043]

Nice work Ern! 

[Davio]

Beautiful trigger, Bigern 

I can see that was done by hand... and took a minute or three 

[BillK]

That looks great.  So nice looking.....