What did I do wrong here?

[Tater]

New 1377. I started by polishing the sear... cleaned trigger parts, polished up, cleaned again, put moly on contact points, added shims, lighter spring and small guide.
After putting the trigger plate back on (but not the grip), pulling back the handle it does not click into the cocked position. The trigger does not seem to move forward into the shooting position either. Here's a pic and any suggestions are appreciated.

[targettgii]

You may have put a shim on that is too thick and it's jamming the trigger.Or if you put a shim on both sides of the trigger that my have done it.I did that myself to try to get the wobble out of the trigger removed one of the shims and it worked fine after that.

[breakfastchef]

9 times out of 10 the grip frame side plate is tight against some or all of the trigger group components. You may need to lose a shim or two or find something thinner like plastics from the recycle bin. I have had the binding problem before.

[blake.l]

Could be wrong but to me looks like the lighter spring is to short, compare to the old one? maybe stretch it a little?

[Tater]

Thanks guys, I'll check all of those things. The pin the trigger pivots on had a metal shim on each side and I added a nylon to each, should I take out the metal stock ones and just use nylon/plastics ones?
I'll stretch the spring a bit too.

[Crosshairs]

The spring is to light and not pushing the sear up enough to catch the hammer IMO.
                           Mike

[Tater]

Alright, I put the original spring in and it works but it's about a 90# pull. I'll try to stretch out the lighter spring and come up with a longer gude.

[1377x]

you could try cutting a couple coils off the stock spring also it has been done like that before
if you dont want to do that though try stretching the light spring out as suggested above

[WyoMan]

I was going to say the same thing as Chef......
You could be binding up with those shims, one way to tell - loosen
the grip frame cover screws a little and see if it helps if it does then you need smaller shims

[BigErn]

My guess is too many shims and the spring could be too light like others said. Let us know what it was when you figure it out!

[Tater]

It worked with the stock spring so I went back to Ace to get a spring half way between the stock spring and the really light one I got yesterday. It still wasn't working with a guide in it so I stretched it out a bit and took out the guide and it works fine now. Not as light as my other 1377 with a .22 LR guide, but my wife is taking a handgun class for ladies on Tuesday so she will pick up a few shells for me hopefully.
Thanks for the help guys.

[1377x]

if you dont get the shells let us know
i have some for you if needed
what you can do in the mean time is take some material off the top of the guide just sand it grind it use what you have to remove material
test fit it as you go

[JEBert]

Still sounds like something is in a bind to me.  All of mine would reset long after they stopped passing the bump test with weaker springs.  You didn't change the angle on your sear when you were polishing it did you?
Cheers,

[cheewee]

remove grip frame from tube so you can access the sear and make sure it moves freely
when ever i do my shim adjustments that is how i do it, you want to take any sideways movement from sear but it still needs to move freely. do it with the trigger removed it is easier. once you have the sear good then do the same for the trigger. just snug the side plate screws and check for movement, if when tightened fully sear binds than your shims are still too thick..

[PC77]

Tater, I also use two  Trigger shims I loosen the front cover screw a little until the trigger works freely. A forum member gave me two rivets for trigger guides that have a flat head and a bevel to keep the spring centered. They worked well. When i was looking around at ace for a guide for my third gun i found some  nylon flat head screws that worked really well the nylon slides very good  on the sear.
pc